City Guide: Barcelona
The Catalan capital in north-eastern Spain is rich with historic sites and classic tourist activities. For fabled architecture and out of this world tapas and churros, there’s nowhere better for a weekend away.
03 May, 2019
Barcelona
has always been something of a rebel. You can see it
in the city’s ornamental modernist buildings, in its complex
politics and the abundance of bars that buzz as the Spanish sun
sinks for another day. Today the Catalan capital is evolving into
one of Europe’s meeting points for those who dream of a life by the
sea, and it’s this influx of people that has seen the creative
scene flourish while Catalan culture grows more defiant. As a
result, the city’s neighbourhoods have never been more defined:
Sant Antoni is the clear epicurean quarter, industrial El Poblenou
is where the cool cats are at, and leafy Gracia’s flourishing
independent businesses and alfresco bars retain its village feel.
This all makes for a very exciting exploration of Spain’s most
sultry city.
hotel
Hotel Brummell
Barcelona, Spain
Located in the hillside hood of Poble-sec, Hotel Brummell is part of a neighbourhood revamp that has seen trendy bars and restaurants crop up in the area. The hotel’s sleek and minimalist design features a metal staircase which zigzags down the back of the property beside a pool deck housing a rooftop pool surrounded by sun beds and yellow parasols. There’s a running club, a yoga studio and a list of local recommendations given to guests daily – Brummell might not look anything like the family homes that surround it, but it remains a spot with strong ties to the community.
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Mercer Hotel
Barcelona, Spain
Tucked between the winding narrow streets of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter and built into the ancient Roman walls that once enclosed the city, the Mercer combines the neighbourhood’s medieval heritage with minimalist style. While first-century columns and restored frescoes have been updated by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo, a glass-walled courtyard, orb-like lights and a colourful 70s-style bar create a contemporary vibe. This is an adult hideaway with old-school service to match – expect a turndown service with locally made chocolates and the next day’s weather forecast on your pillow.
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Mandarin Oriental
Barcelona, Spain
We probably don’t need to tell you that the Mandarin Oriental is an opulent option which comes with a hefty price tag.
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Bed & Break
Barcelona, Spain
Bed & Break is made up of nine rooms set over two floors in a modernist residential building typical of Barcelona, close to Passeig de Gràcia. All rooms have high ceilings, design details and comfortable beds, but you do get what you pay for – the purse-friendly rooms have very little natural light and are a tad musty. It’s a B&B experience – there’s no lift, some bathrooms have handheld showers and you’ll have to arrange check-in time with the owner Ivan – but it has the attention to design detail you might expect from a small boutique hotel.
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Margot House
Barcelona, Spain
Despite being in one of Barcelona’s prime locations – bang in the middle of Passeig de Gràcia and directly opposite Gaudí’s Casa Batlló – Margot House doesn’t shout about it. Hidden on the first floor of a residential building, this hotel was named after Margot Tenenbaum and is every bit as cool as the Wes Anderson character. Made up of nine rooms and a large open-plan communal space with a living room, dining area, honesty bar and kitchen (for tea, coffee and cakes) the hotel feels like home. And we wish it was – with materials like raw concrete, light-hued wood and marble table tops, the Scandi and Japanese-style design couldn’t be more appealing.
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Cotton House Hotel
Barcelona, Spain
Stop for a sundowner at Cotton House Hotel terrace. Grandiose and elegant, this five-star hotel is housed in a 19th-century neoclassical building in Eixample. Its beautiful outdoor space is filled with rattan chairs and large palms that make for the perfect early evening setting for a cocktail.
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Almanac Hotel
Barcelona, Spain
Just off the famed boulevard of Passeig de Gràcia, Almanac is perfectly positioned for a shop and flop – a “flop” being a tranquil evening spent sampling cocktails on the hotel’s rooftop terrace. Visit the restaurant Línia between 4pm and 7pm for L’Hora Dolca, during which pastry chef Lucila Canero offers up a carefully crafted selection of desserts. Retire to your room for a much-needed siesta; muted interiors, a king-size bed, an Ibizan marble bathroom and rainfall shower have never looked so inviting.
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Claris Hotel & Spa
Barcelona, Spain
In the lively Eixample district, Claris Hotel & Spa reigns supreme. While the hotel is located in the Palau Vedruna, a former palace dating back to the 19th century, it’s the interior decor that most come to admire. The hotel’s first floor hosts a museum showcasing Pre-Columbian art, while original artwork adorns the rooms, each with furnishings designed to complement the pieces. If that doesn’t tempt you, perhaps La Terraza del Claris, an innovative Mediterranean restaurant with views over the city, will do the trick.
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The Serras
Barcelona, Spain
This understated hotel doesn’t need to shout about its five-star status. Arrive to a tray of refreshments that includes chocolate and sparkling Spanish wine before cooling down in the pool while watching grand yachts moor at Port Vell. Dine on refreshing ceviche on the roof or head to restaurant Informal, helmed by chef Marc Gascons. At the latter, the required dress code and atmosphere live up to the restaurant’s “informal” name – but the food does not. Seasonal, Catalan dishes strike gold every time. Opt for the honeyed potato gnocchi with butter sauce and black winter truffle.
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Casa Mathilda
Barcelona, Spain
Casa Mathilda was formerly the residence of one of the most prominent Catalan textile-manufacturing families. Within easy walking distance of La Sagrada Família and La Pedrera, this boutique bed and breakfast is designed to feel homely, with simple, delicate touches that welcome you in after a long day exploring the city. Wake to traditional pá amb tomáquet – bread rubbed with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes and salt – and a breakfast spread including freshly baked bread from famed bakery Baluard.
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Hotel Pulitzer
Barcelona, Spain
Centrally located, cute and “curated”, Hotel Pulitzer is a great affordable option. Despite being pegged just off busy La Rambla, tourist trapping this not. Both design-conscious and pocket-friendly, Pulitzer’s arty feel (a nod to the city’s outputs) appeals. Check in at the ornate front desk (reclaimed from gilt-edged panels taken from a Sicilian church) and eye up the Brompton bikes for rent as you wait for your room key.
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Casa Bonay
Barcelona, Spain
Thanks to Casa Bonay’s cosy living-room feel, come evening you’re just as likely to find one of the hotel’s 70-year-old neighbours dancing on a sofa to DJ-spun tunes as you are a millennial tourist. It’s a hotel but there’s also a juice bar, coffee roaster, independent book store, 24-hour shop and a two-in-one restaurant all under one roof – so expect a lot of day guests. In contrast to Casa Bonay’s shared spaces, bedrooms are minimalist and modest.
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Casa Camper
Barcelona, Spain
We really hope you like the colour red; there’s lashings of it at Casa Camper. Situated in the El Raval area, Casa Camper is your launchpad into a neighbourhood full of galleries, local restaurants and wine bars. Inside, rooms are paired back, letting the downstairs Michelin-starred Dos Palillos take centre stage. Enjoy your fill of oriental cuisine and Spanish tapas prepared by Albert Raurich, former chef de cuisine at El Bulli.