A Pocket Guide to Montmartre, Paris

A Pocket Guide to Montmartre, Paris

Think you know Montmartre? Think again. There’s more to this unique part of town than the Sacré-Coeur and the Moulin Rouge. Join us in exploring the eccentric local community redefining this hilltop Parisian quarter



Once
a country village tucked into Paris’ verdant rural skirts, Montmartre’s distinctive
identity sets it apart from the rest of the French capital. Though
officially part of the city since 1860, most Parisians still talk
about this historic area’s twisting roads as if they’re part of a
different place altogether. Founded by the Romans – who placed a
temple on the hill where the Sacré-Coeur Basilica now stands –
Montmartre of old was known for its vineyards and gypsum quarries.
Then, hundreds of years later, it became a local village, dotted
with windmills (which you can still see).

By the 1800s, however, the dinky village had metamorphosed into
a centre of country culture, first as the heart of the Paris
Commune, the revolutionary uprising following the end of the
Prussian occupation in 1871, and then as the birthplace of
impressionism and cubism. Starry names like Monet, Renoir and
Picasso congregated here during the Belle Époque; in the early
1900s, it was a hedonistic den of art and parties, centred around subversive
café-cabarets.

Today, the insalubrious edges have dissipated, but the
district’s soul remains – just note that you’ll have to sidestep
the Eiffel Tower mug stands and beret stalls to find its authentic
self. Skip past the touristy kitsch on the south side of the hill
and follow disgruntled Parisians through the crowds to the 18th
arrondissement’s bohemian heart. East of La Butte and behind it, to
the north, sit a sloping maze of narrow streets lined with local
businesses, from wine shops and Greek eateries to hidden teahouses
and African boutiques. Below, we’ll show you the best way to
experience the area like a Montmartrois.

Everything you need to know for a weekend exploring
Montmartre’s cool side


hotel

Hotel Particulier Montmartre

Hidden in a private mews off the prestigious Avenue Junot, Hotel
Particulier offers a luxurious and romantic stay. The house was
once owned by the Hermès family, and the feel is still very much
like staying in a fabulous private mansion (note: with a price to
match). Each of the five newly renovated suites has a unique
design, with eccentric touches like leopard-print wallpaper, and
flamboyant marble-clad bathrooms. It’s a sumptuous hillside
bolthole.

Address

23 Av Junot, Pavillon D, 75018

A bedroom at Terass Hotel

hotel

Terrass Hotel

Terrass Hotel, located just off Rue Lepic, in the heart of
Amélie territory, was originally opened in 1911 and has held onto
some of its most beautiful art deco features, such as the curved
glass awning at the front entrance. The property was given a
head-to-toe makeover a few years ago, becoming a favourite with
visitors and locals alike. Don’t miss the rooftop bar, which has
panoramic views over the city, including the twinkling Eiffel Tower
at night.

Address

12-14 Rue Joseph de Maistre, 75018

An orange-painted bedroom with mid-century furnishings

hotel

MOB HOTEL Paris les Puces

While this address is not technically in Montmartre, but tucked
away in the nearest suburb to the north, Saint-Ouen, we’re counting
it. Heading out of the area proper means grabbing a chic room for
less than in most hill-hugging hotels – but you’re still a minute’s
stroll from Montmartre’s heart. Rooms at this fresh-faced stay
feature super-comfy beds and mid-century-inspired furnishings, with
quirky, humorous touches contrasting with the building’s industrial
architecture. In warmer months, you’ll want to make use of the huge
courtyard gardens and outdoor pool (In Paris? Zut alors!).

Address

6 Rue Gambetta, 93400

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