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Fashion Week in February often kicks off with monstrous blizzards in New York City, with fashion bloggers teetering in their stilettos and editors braving the cold with pursed lips (save for an always cheery Eva Chen). To keep warm during fashion month we looked to the runway as talented designers set fashion capitals ablaze with their creative flair, aesthetic genius and an occasional Zoolander male model or two to brighten up our long winter days (Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson closing Valentino, anyone?!)
New York put on an air of elevated athletic-luxe while London presented classic yet quirkily modern combinations. Milan, still a champion of Italian glamour, introduced a 21st century twist to classic styles and Paris presented the chic collections for which the city is known. We’ve curated the most important shows that were presented at AW15 to give you a fast-track low-down on what’s coming up next season.
The Olsen twins’ label has truly gained traction in recent years, as they have increasingly embraced purist aesthetics. This season’s show was held at the clean and corporate Seagram Building and the show space exuded a rare stillness in the mayhem of NYFW. Fully adhering to the ‘less is more’ motto, The Row AW15 is a lesson in crisp, concise and clean design. In a bid to heighten a luxurious yet practical collection, the Olsens successfully created a line that is globally appealing.
Referencing his Nepalese roots, Prabal Gurung’s strongest collections have been inspired by glorious mountains. Yet Prabal Gurung AW15 hints also at his upbringing in upstate New York. With a calm, subdued colour palette that exudes glamorous ease, Gurung’s latest collection allows for seamless adaptability, flexible enough for any travel location, unique enough for outstanding ready-to-wear looks. In this creative marriage of lavish minimalism, Gurung’s strengths radiate in a divine manner.
Burberry constantly curates the most enviable front row of London Fashion Week. This season, we saw powerful model BFFs and Burberry campaign stars Cara Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn practically joined at the hip whilst attending the show. Powerhouse Grammy winner Sam Smith made his first fashion week appearance and Kate Moss sat next to fashion photography veteran, Mario Testino. Pulling out all the stops, Christopher Bailey united hippie-chic and haute couture in a fashionable marriage of prints, textures and fabrics. A risqué departure from its classic silhouettes, colours and patterns, Burberry Prorsum’s AW15 RTW collection explores another side of Bailey’s creativity.
Signalling his signature inspiration, Japanese architectural movements, Eudon Choi expresses the brand’s aesthetic identity and his creative strengths via a beautiful, subdued palette of clean lines and luxe fabrics. Tailored yet loose silhouettes dominate the runway, and Choi’s panel-blocking skills are honed to a tee with great impact. A visual feast for fashion insiders, Eudon’s exploration of proportions is executed with impressive creative effect and is admirably subtle yet profound.
Roksanda Ilincic strayed from her usual pathway of modern art-inspired designs and instead looked to nature for her latest collection. Rich in colours, textures and fabrics, Roksanda AW15 is a tapestry that united several central themes: glamorous, luxurious nature with a hint of 70s nostalgia.
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
Mind the gap, please: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi chose to showcase their AW15 collection at a newly opened underground walkway at King’s Cross Tube Station. Citing “deconstructed chic and minimal opulence” as their central identity this season, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s AW15 collection is a skilled combination of playful textures and influences. With floral appliqués dominating their intricate dresses and coats, Thornton and Bregazzi are putting the spring into winter’s footsteps.
Osman Yousefzada’s AW15 collection is a shimmery palette of winter offerings that comes in the form of well-structured dresses and coats, a modern-day dream for the 21st century woman. A forward-thinking collection, Osman AW15 is elegant and sophisticated, skilfully showing variations of red, black and white. With fluid silhouettes, the collection unites various elements for a fashion feast of textures, colours and fabric: brocade, velvet, silk and knit are central to Osman’s creations. Subdued yet glamourous, Osman excels in creating beautiful day-to-night looks.
DOLCE AND GABBANA
In a rare occurrence in the fashion world, Dolce and Gabbana showed their beautiful collection via a universal celebration of mothers and their perennial love. Models walked down the runway, holding children wearing adorable D&G kids ensembles, perhaps hinting at the everlasting power and influence of fashion in cementing life’s celebrations.
Donatella Versace was onto something when she combined sex appeal and the internet in the latest Versace collection, highlighting the digital revolution that is central to the fashion industry. Hashtags aside, this represents a greater trajectory of the fashion world, where e-commerce is gradually dominating luxury retail sales. By injecting the digital into Versace’s AW15 line, she brings the fashion house to modern times, where sex and the internet unite for a colourful, bold and loud collection.
An emerging designer based in Milan, Vivetta Ponti was Giorgio Armani’s guest designer this season. With elevated exposure at the Armani showroom, Vivetta showcased quirky designs with trompe l’oeil motifs as the highlight of her AW15 collection. We love the colours and charm that this collection exuded.
Moving from New York with Opening Ceremony to Paris with Kenzo, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon once again created a collection of visually fascinating garments, with colours reminiscent of nature and the signature loose and fluid silhouettes for which they are known. Effortlessly cool, Kenzo AW15 showcases an enviable global wardrobe: perfect for the international traveller seeking a myriad ways to pack and dress for four seasons. Nature motifs such as floral and leaf patterns dominate the runway, fashionably united with modern silhouettes. Thus Kenzo Takada’s legacy is beautifully and wonderfully preserved.
Slinky and sexualised, Raf Simons created this collection for Dior with the unison of two central themes in mind: an urban-nature undercurrent runs through these subtly electrifying looks. Intelligently and strategically directing Dior AW15 towards the fashion and commercial realms, Simons successfully catered his creations to all facets of Dior lovers: the insiders and more importantly, the consumers.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
One of the most well received shows this season, Dries van Noten AW15 is made for the opulent, fun-loving and glamorous modern woman: cue paradoxical creations of eccentricity and subdued lushness. Van Noten’s genius shines through composed layers of embroidered textures, feathers, and jewellery—an apt tribute to flamboyant divas. Beautifully dramatic, we would love to equip elegant and eventful autumn/winter evenings with Dries van Noten AW15.
Words by Kristina Teow
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