London Fashion Week is unrelenting in it’s culmination of new work and bold ideas. In recent years, the capital has seen an influx of young designers quickly mature and reach wide acclaim – Rejina Pyo, Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard are just a few of our consistent favourites. Big brands are equally spurred by London’s frenetic energy. This season, Christopher Bailey’s last collection for the brand was received with overwhelming jubilation; his farewell message was one of love and community. With a robust calendar of noteworthy shows, compiling a list of our favoured designers becomes an increasingly challenging task. With such a fast turnover and broad array of shows and presentations to consume, thoughts of a see-now-bye-now culture seems apparent. Here’s a shoutout to a few collections that we felt deserved further contemplation.
Operating on a see-now-buy-now schedule, Mother of Pearl showcased their SS18 collection this week. Exploring her British heritage, creative director Amy Powney focused on the work of her favourite British artist, David Hockney; poet, Simon Armitage; and memories from her childhood in the countryside of Yorkshire. During the show, select looks were accessorised with newspapers and/or bouquets of flowers, resulting in a sleek yet laidback look. Encompassing her inspirations, Powney hosted the show inside Vauxhall’s Newport Street Gallery, a space honouring many British artists.
This season Roksanda was all about protection. While reiterating the hot topic of women’s rights, the designer presented an alternative view of the Roksanda woman. Honing in on the soft and subtle, there was a palpable sense of the strong willed and resilient female. Through a combination of blanket capes, silk dresses, and structured overcoats, the AW18 collection provided a wardrobe for both confidence and comfort.
For his AW18 collection, the Korean born, London-based designer travelled west to St. Ives, Cornwall. Taking his cues from other artists who found inspiration in the seaside town, Choi drew, in particular, on the work of Alfred Wallis whose paintings determined the collection’s colour palette. Marrying sophistication and simplicity, standout pieces – the sou’wester hats, trenches and dungarees – were another nod to Wallis’ work, and subsequently the character of St. Ives. As a final touch, Eudon Choi partnered with our favourite jewellery brand, Alighieri.
After becoming enamored with Joel D Levinson’s images from California in the 70s, designer Serafina Sama took a closer look at the eclectic fashions in her own neighborhood, Notting Hill. The intriguing combination of fabrics and textures, mismatched plaids, patchwork, jewel embellishments, metal body chains and hats mimic the haphazardness of Portobello Road Market. True to the brand, this seasons output was loud and quirkily charming, with a unity running across the collection.