Designer Paula Knorr founded her eponymous label in 2015 and quickly attracted international attention. By July of the same year she received the ITS Fashion Award in Trieste and the British Fashion Council’s NextGen award for her SS17 Collection.
Knorr focuses on designing for a range of women no matter how they individually identify with gender, reinforcing the possibility of dressing femininely while being strong and powerful. The designer’s study of the female body and the significance of drapery in her work give her pieces a chic and sophisticated edge that sets the brand apart.
We spoke to her about the meaning behind her previous collections and what we can expect for AW18.
London, LA, New York, Paris and Kuwait. Key retailers include; Machine-A, H.LORENZO, Opening Ceremony, Galeries Lafayette and 4. I also recently designed a capsule collection for MATCHESFASHION.COM that is available online and in London stores.
Strong, sensual women of any age who want to look powerful, unique and feminine.
I am from a small village on the Rhine, just a short drive from Frankfurt. There wasn’t much fashion there but my parents are illustrators and studied art. A lot of their friends are artists or have art-related jobs, so I grew up surrounded by creatives with a lot of support for my ambitions.
It is nothing definite; every woman creates their own idea of femininity.
I want to connect to a generation of women who feel caught between being gender neutral and overly sexual. I want to show that to be a “normal”, “feminine” woman is absolutely fine; I was never the cool kid and always liked to feel really feminine. My goal is to create a wardrobe for women who are not afraid to be powerful and simultaneously womanly; these are not mutually exclusive traits.
To support and illustrate female identity is always at the core of my work. In the fashion world it can feel like the superficial vision of a model on the runway gets more attention than the real woman who will wear the garment. Every season, I try to define a method to reverse this and remind people of the purpose of fashion. The woman should be at the forefront; it’s about her body, her movement and her personal beauty.
The interaction and balance between the body and the clothes is essential. Details and prints are secondary. I never start by drawing my ideas; I create them directly on a real body to explore how they interact.
My boyfriend is a musician and I find it interesting that we work so differently while both being in the creative industry. I wanted to research different kinds of artistic processes. I’m inspired by musicians and how their body becomes a creative tool, whereas I do most of my design work with my mind.
Blissing Me by Björk and Solange Knowles’ album A Seat at the Table.
When I moved to London five years ago I was fascinated by the different cultures that exist next to each other while not losing their cultural identity. You don’t see this on such a scale in German cities and it’s something I love about London.
I am interested in the impact of female dressing, particularly when it comes to evening wear. Some think it’s outdated, but it’s having a big revival and I’m trying to reimagine it for AW18. Relaxed, comfortable and easy designs that redefine “sexy” into sensual designs from a woman’s perspective.
I want to focus on developing knitwear and accessories, as well as create more items with accessible price points. I’d also love to launch my own e-store and continue to grow the brand globally.