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Ghana’s first (and only) tea bar, this tiny but lively café-cum-restaurant (with adjoining shop) serves huge jars of fruity teas that can be spiked as dangerously as you like. The food is some of the best in Accra – there are three or so options per day, cooked in front of you on the open-air grill, plus generous wedges of cake and board games to play while you wait. Staff and customers are always keen to chat, making it a lovely place to linger.
A contemporary opening, Kukun offers health-conscious breakfasts, lunches and dinners (try a smoothie, coconut and soy-milk porridge or a sharing platter) and is top of our list for brunch offerings in the city, taken within the tastefully decorated café or on the shady terrace. Kukun also offers co-working spaces, meaning it’s usually full of Accra’s up-and-coming entrepreneurs. The force behind it, Danielle, hosts regular events including poetry showcases, tasting-menu dinners with local chefs, pop-up fashion brunches, art workshops and HIIT sessions.
Ask anyone who’s lived in Accra where to eat and Chez Clarisse will no doubt be the name on their lips. This tiny Ivorian restaurant is hidden down a side street in Osu and serves enormous, cheap yet cheerful plates of grilled tilapia or chicken with a variety of sides (atieke and yam chips are favourites). It’s also worth calling ahead to see if they can prepare “poulet arachide” (peanut chicken). Eat with your hands and wash it down with Club beer or fresh hibiscus and ginger juices.
Another excellent spot for brunch, the environmentally conscious Café Kwae serves nutritious seasonal food alongside excellent coffees and desserts, as well as their signature rice pots. Inspired by a love of simple food and a passion for travel – reflected in the decor and regular customers – this is where you’ll find Accra’s style crowd bent over laptops.
This café right in the heart of Jamestown is a real one-of-a-kind joint. Set in one of Accra’s oldest districts – which emerged as a community around the 17th-century British James Fort – it still harbours remnants of Ghana’s colonial past. The café is a space for artists and their creations, mixing old and new via local cuisine, drink and music. It’s a good spot to rest after a morning visiting the forts and lighthouse, or following a day at Accra’s Chale Wote Festival in August.
Little Havana is Ghana’s first Afro-Latino-inspired street-food restaurant and bar and is the latest creation from Marcus Morgan-Etty, who has been a force of design inspiration in Accra for many years. It’s no surprise that customers have followed him to this vibrant cantina for Latin flavour, Ghanaian ingredients and rum-based cocktails in an colonial-style building, complete with original art-deco shutters, vintage furniture and over-the-top chandeliers.
Voted Restaurant of the Year by Ghana’s Tourism Authority in 2016, Bistro 22 is one of Accra’s most reliable restaurants – it’s been around for years, rarely (if ever) changes its menu and you can usually find a table. The food is excellent and the garden peaceful, with beautiful lighting hanging from a huge tree growing in the centre. Try the beef salad made with fresh Ghanaian mangoes and avocados.
The best roadside chop bar (and only one not to be closed down by the authorities during the most recent typhoid and cholera outbreak) is Auntie Muni’s Waakye. An open-sided stall on the corner of two roads surrounded by benches and tables, waakye (pronounced “wachey”) is a traditional Ghanaian food made from rice, black beans and meat, served with a boiled-egg and noodle garri (a crumbled grain). Go at the weekend when it’s dished out to an eager crowd from giant pots.
This outdoor bar serves beer and barbecue, but the name Afrikikos refers to the whole outdoor complex around the bar, including the excellent Toro Tapas and Te Ra Su Sushi. It’s popular with both locals and expats, particularly on Wednesday salsa and Thursday kizomba nights, where you’ll get free lessons and dancing all evening. There’s live music most days – look out for local police band.
Coco Lounge and Urban Grill
You can find both restaurants in trendy Icon House (also home to La Maison design shop and gallery and Carbon nightclub). The more wallet-friendly Coco Lounge features dancing waiting staff, Mexican-themed food, tequila nights, wood-fired pizza, cake and specially commissioned artwork in a relaxed atmosphere. One floor above, the more glamorous (no trainers) Urban Grill is famous for its steak and cocktails, as well as its breezy terrace which often hosts live music or film nights. If you’re feeling flush, Yolo Experiences also manage Santoku, a sophisticated Japanese restaurant offering outstanding food in the Villagio development just across Liberation Road.
Chix ‘n’ Ribs
Housed in a tiny shipping container just off Oxford Street, with a larger branch in East Legon, Chix ‘n’ Ribs doesn’t look like much, but the American influence on Ghanaian ingredients has created possibly the best burgers and wings in Accra. Try the deep-fried avocado – nothing in the city will melt in your mouth quite like it.
This Asian food offering from the team behind Burger & Relish is made even better with cocktails by Chris Beaney, one of Ghana’s most eminent mixologists. Get stuck in to an excellent selection of dim sum, sushi, soups and noodles, with a good range of set menus, all-you-can-eat menus and late night offerings.
Eat here for an authentic Ghanaian experience of hit-and-miss service but an excellent range of local dishes in a traditionally decorated open-air restaurant in the middle of busy Osu.
Burger & Relish
Simple pleasures arrive in the form of gourmet burgers, interesting cocktails (more of Chris Beaney’s creations) and live music, a DJ or a quiz night served to a range of clientele – from well-to-do locals to Peace Corps volunteers.
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