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For SUITCASE Vol. 11 / The Water Issue, The Curious Pear travelled along the North Cornish coast to St.Ives, Padstow and Fowey. Here’s an excerpt from their time in St.Ives, filled with award-winning fish and chip shops and antique pubs. To read their full journey buy The Water Issue here.
The hopelessly romantic St Ives hauls in visitors summer after summer, and for good reason. The town leans towards the sea, with white and blue houses toppling over each other as they meet the water’s edge. In warm weather, locals love nothing more than a barefoot walk on the beach with their dogs, or an afternoon pint looking out to sea. Chock-full of jewellers, craft shops and galleries, St Ives has a history of bohemian creativity that remains alive and vital today.
9:00AM: Wake up at Headland House Headland Road, St Ives, TR26 2NS, +44 1736 796647
Set in an Edwardian house overlooking the picturesque Carbis Bay, this boutique B&B has views out to sea and an outdoor seating area for sundown drinks. Each bedroom is bright and breezy, with whitewood finishes and plush beds. Bespoke touches range from local artwork to the ‘snug longue’ where you can relax with a book in leather chairs bathed in candlelight. In the morning, enjoy a delicious home-cooked breakfast and come evening, choose crisp wines and sweet sherries from their honesty bar.
11:00AM: Visit the Barbara Hepworth museum Barnoon Hill, St Ives, TR26 1AD, +44 1736 796226
St Ives was home to Barbara Hepworth, one of the most celebrated artists of the 20th century. After her death in 1975, Hepworth’s sculpture garden and her workshop were kept intact. Visit the museum and pick your way through the dense, organic structures cast in iron against a tangle of flowers and greenery.
1:00PM: Stop off at Pengenna Pasties 9 High Street, St Ives, TR26 1RR, +44 1736 794100
Grab a perfect, freshly made cream tea and they will put it into a little container for you to stroll away with. The shop offers a huge selection of delicious homemade jams, chutneys and preserves.
1:15PM: Pick up a pasty at St Ives Bakery 1 Fore Street, St Ives, TR26 1HE, +44 1736 798888
This glass-fronted bakery has a window stacked with giant, buttery-coloured meringues, but the shop’s flaky steak pasty is the real reason to pay it a visit. Peppery, juicy meat in a pocket of crumbly shortcrust pastry. If there is a better pasty in all of Cornwall, we’d like to see it.
3:00PM: Shop at The Vintage Store 1 Rose Lodge Studios, The Wharf, St Ives, TR26 1LG, +44 1736 797530
The perfect spot to indulge in beautiful but unnecessary homeware purchases. With second-hand vinyls, antique signs, beautiful tableware and a great in-house café, The Vintage Store offers the perfect chance to peruse lovely things, and then refuel with coffee and homemade cakes.
4:30PM: Treat yourself at Cornish Cream 29 Fore Street, St Ives, TR26 1AB, +44 1736 794828,
You know you’re going to want to haul home a few bags of Cornish fudge, homemade honeycomb or a bottle of Cornish lust (an enjoyably saccharine strawberry and cream liquor). Their ice creams are also some of the best in town.
7:00PM: Dine at Porthminster Beach Café Porthminster Beach, St Ives, TR26 2EB, +44 1736 795352
This seafront spot focuses on seasonal local seafood with flavours borrowed from Asia, Australia and Europe. Try their house specialty to start – a heap of crispy squid with miso, squid ink and black spice – then follow with coconut and tamarind monkfish curry or hand-dived scallops with radish, apple and tarragon. Come here for dinner, when candles flicker in jars on the front steps.
9:00PM: Grab a drink at the Rum and Crab Shack Wharf Road, St Ives, TR26 1LG, +44 1736 796353
Head here for great music, local ales and lively clientele. Grab a pint of spingo ale and a window seat in the early evening to watch the sky turn blood orange over the water.
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