Where to Eat in West London

Mon, 7 October 2019
petersham-nurseries-cafe-restaurant-flowers-richmond-credit-helene-sandbergPhotography by Helene Sandberg

Suzi Tros

Rubbing shoulders with sister restaurant Mazi, Suzi Tros offers similar fare to it’s older sibling, focusing more acutely on Northern Greek cuisine. Dishes inspired by the eateries of Thessaloniki are simple and prices are modest, ranging from £2 to £22. Start with grill-marked bread with creamy taramasalata, and follow with prawn saganaki and smoked aubergine, laden with tahini and honey. For a fresh, crisp dish the tomato and cucumber salad, mint, shallots doused in olive oil and sprinkled with chards of salt hits the spot; turbot (served off the bone) with zesty greens is another must-order.

Request a table upstairs in the bright back room if your planning a drawn-out dinner or, for a more brief bite, head for the bar seating to the front of the restaurant. Make your drink selection from an all-Greek list of wine and beer or, for something with a little more kick, make a beeline for the slicker cocktail area downstairs for a pour of mastika (a local Greek liqueur). Then for dessert, it’s a diplomatic game of eeny, meeny, miny, moe with just two dessert options from which to choose. The frozen Greek yoghurt with peaches and cinnamon crumble is a tangy palette cleanser, while its armenovil ice-cream cake will appeal to chocolate fans.

Haya

Just off Portobello Road, you’ll find the Tel-Aviv inspired Haya. Joining the ranks of new kids on the block – Jackson Boxer’s Orasay sits on the opposite side of the street – Haya is among a handful of modern additions to W11’s increasingly chic culinary scene. Inside, this cosy eatery maintains a neighbourhood feel with tangerine velvet seats and salmon-hued walls offset by concrete colourings. Dark-wood floors add a swish of style to the space, while greenery draped from ceiling beams mirrors the disc-like light fixtures that illuminate individual tables.

Choose from a well-edited menu of small bites to stave off hunger while final decisions are being reached – opt for the grilled halloumi skewers and padron peppers served with smoked salt and harissa mayo. For mains, a strong order for two would read: Jaffa-style cauliflower; asparagus prepared with a cashew sauce and feta cheese; spiced lamb cutlets with honey yoghurt (these are generously portioned); and a tendril of grilled octopus served with rainbow chard and turmeric emulsion. The dessert offering is just as good. Let your fullness levels guide and either go light with the deconstructed lemon meringue and raspberries – perfect for those whose key interest in said dessert is the whippy top – or go all out with the home-baked cookies served with chocolate fudge, salted-caramel ice cream and hazelnuts.

  • +44 20 3995 4777
  • Go to Website
  • 184A Kensington Park Road
    Notting Hill
    W11 2ES

Gold

This neighbourhood restaurant on Portobello Road would go unnoticed were it not for the rave reviews being whispered around the borough. Gold is the sort of place you’d expect Notting Hill to be littered with but which is surprisingly hard to come by. A hybrid between a pub and an al fresco dining space, there’s an artisanal feel to Gold’s interiors which are informal and eclectic. Spread over three floors, the ground level is the most atmospheric, thanks to the garden terrace’s dusty coral walls, potted palms and hurricane lantern to table ratio. Using live-fire cooking, dishes are designed to be shared and are served as they are ready. Don’t miss the wood-roasted, whole sea bream with wild oregano and capers or the merinda, black tiger and datterini tomato salad with salted ricotta, basil and verjus dressing. The burrata paired with charred flat peaches, Tuscan ham, radicchio and balsamic dressing is also a knockout. We’d go on if this weren’t making us oh so very hungry.

  • 020 3146 0747
  • Go to Website
  • 95-97 Portobello Road
    Notting Hill
    W11 2QB

The Cleveland Arms

The prospect of mealtimes in Paddington can be a little daunting. If you’re not seeking a pre-packed sandwich your options are limited. Finding ourselves in W2 more and more frequently (mainly to catch the Heathrow Express), a pitstop at The Cleveland Arms has become something of a ritual. Here, interiors are akin to a tearsheet from an Impressionist’s sketchbook – distressed aubergine- and teal-tinted walls, oversized antique mirrors, velvet-finished banquettes, wilting flowers on the mantelpiece and wood panelling overhead. If you come during lunchtime, order from the specials menu (very well priced at £10-12). Dinner, rustled up by Head Chef Elisabeth Passédat, is “pub grub” dressed up and dished out with care and finesse. Order the burrata with heritage tomatoes and a hefty dollop of pesto or the melon and parma ham to start and follow with the pan-fried hake served with fregola and sauce vierge (a hearty fish dish than you might expect).

Dinings SW3

You don’t need us to tell you about Dinings, the Marylebone darling widely regarded as the hottest sushi ticket in the capital. And now Chelsea dwellers can breathe a sigh of relief that the West London dining scene has gained a diamond in its somewhat scanty crown as the izakaya experts have set up shop in a quiet mews off Walton Street. A spacious dining room with lofty ceilings, large windows, black-and-white parquet flooring and an ornately carved mahogany fireplace sets the scene for diners who gather excitedly around scrubbed-wood tables or at the open-kitchen counter bar to see what all the fuss is about.

Dinings’ USP is authentic Japanese cuisine meets European flavours and ingredients, so expect sushi galore but made with Scottish hand-dived scallops, salmon and seabass, while indulgences like a freshwater-eel and pan-fried foie-gras roll join the usual favourites (which tend to be spruced up with some truffle soy here, a nikkei salsa there). Larger plates include “fish and chips” with seared wasabi halibut and green-tea-battered chips, as well as an array of steamed burgers (tofu or wagyu?) while a Josper grill sizzles with creel-caught native lobster or corn-fed French poussin teriyaki. Cover all bases with the omakase tasting menu, and supplement with anything from Fat Samurai sake to Sancerre blanc.

The Cow

Looks like your typical pub on the outside, isn’t on the inside. The Cow is a laid-back local pub in Westbourne Grove with a seriously good vibe and excellent seafood. This is a watering hole that’s filled with loyal customers, so it’s not the type of place to barge in and draw a lot of attention to yourself. They specialise in shellfish, so come here if you’re looking for quite a bit of drinking accompanied by oysters, winkles, whelks, crab and prawns. Follow up with the seafood stew, which is rich and filled with chunks of smoked fish, mussels and prawns or the crab tagliolini. Don’t worry about the brusque service, it’s all part of the experience.

Mazi

Mazi is a Greek restaurant off Notting Hill Gate that will redefine what Greek food means to you. Here you will not find a single plate of uninspired dolmades or a greasy souvlaki – but modern, well-executed food served in a warm and very pretty atmosphere. During winter Mazi has the wonderful communal feel of a taverna, despite the modern décor. In the summer the garden out back, with a grape vine trellis overhead, could very well be mistaken for the terrace of a small, Greek island restaurant. Starters come in adorable jars – try the fish roe mousse and smoky grilled aubergine with soy and thyme honey. For mains, try the rabbit stifado, a slow-cooked dish reserved for winter nights in Northern Greece, which comes deconstructed and shredded with a meaty sauce. A phenomenal grilled octopus comes with, of all things, an olive tapenade, and not a squeeze of lemon.

Carousel

A permanent space for gastronomic pop-ups, Carousel features a revolving lineup of international chefs with set menus (in addition to a permanent lunch menu offered on Fridays and Saturdays). The industrial-chic dining room in Marylebone features polished concrete floors and low-hanging spotlights. Communal wooden tables create a fun, impromptu atmosphere which draws in a young and lively crowd. Carousel also plays host to art exhibitions, video installations, film screenings, spoken word poetry, live acoustic sets, theatre workshops and yoga brunches.

Dinings

It’s easy to walk passed Dinings without noticing, as it discreetly takes up the ground and basement floor of an unassuming townhouse on a quiet street in Marylebone. What chef and proprietor Tomonari Chiba is trying to do with this restaurant is clear from the moment you walk in – it’s all about the food. The interior – stools along a sushi bar upstairs and tables downstairs – is neither sleek nor elegant, but isn’t offensive either. You’re here for the menu. The sushi overall is a delight, a large plate of nigiri shows off their talent for making each piece taste wildly different, drawing out the flavours of each fish. The hot and cold tapas are not to be missed – sweet aubergine with miso and Scottish lobster salad are highlights. This isn’t a place to order dragon rolls.

  • 020 7723 0666
  • 22 Harcourt Street
    London
    W1H 4HH

River Café

The River Café is a London institution. Patrons have been eating good food here since 1987, when Rose Gray (who died in 2010) and Ruth Rogers opened their restaurant on the river and vowed to serve the best Italian fare in the city. What the River Café is really good at is sourcing ingredients, and they’ve been doing that since the day the opened – whether it’s melon at its ripest flown in from Italy or the most delicious Cornish crab – this restaurant does seasonal dishes very, very well. It’s not the kind of place where your waiter will recite the first chapter of a novel to describe your dish, and because of that it is an immensely comfortable place to eat. At night, the warm room with its giant red oven glows with soft light, and the hum of happy talking people fills the room. Unlike most restaurants, there’s a significant number of female chefs and sommeliers. Expect to see important people dining there. We guarantee you’ll leave with fond memories.

  • 020 7386 4200
  • Go to Website
  • Thames Wharf
    Rainville Road
    London
    W6 9HA

The Ledbury

Because the Ledbury has two Michelin stars and is considered by many the best restaurant in London (in 2014 Observer Food Monthly readers voted it the best in the country) it would be easy to think that having dinner there is an over-the-top affair. It is not. And one of the delights of going to The Ledbury is that you get the most elegant and tastiest of dishes with service that is welcoming and casual. Chef Brett Graham has made it a point to make his guests feel relaxed at his Notting Hill restaurant, which offers dinner á la carte for £95, and a lunch set menu for £50. Brett tends not to put the typical expensive restaurant ingredients at the centre of his cooking – lobster and foie gras aren’t the thing you come here for. You’ll still find those ingredients, but they might be pulverised into a dust and sprinkled over a dish, or whipped into a delicious butter. Expect to eat delightful, light dishes with full-on flavour like roast cauliflower, wrapped in shiitake, sherry and pine nuts and a warm Bantam’s egg with celeriac, dried ham, Arbois and Wiltshire truffle.

Petersham Nurseries

After hearing about it for years, we finally had a chance to visit Petersham Nurseries and we can confirm: dining on celebrated “slow food” in a glasshouse surrounded by blossoming flowers and vibrant greenery is an absolute joy. This Michelin-starred restaurant has been knocking socks off for ten years, and continues to surprise guests with colourfully reinvented classics. All of the food is created with sustainably sourced produce, which the kitchen uses in dishes like whole Dover sole with saffron mussels, guinea fowl with lemon and mascarpone, Keralan pumpkin and roasted rabbit with prosciutto. Fittingly, there is usually a smattering of edible flowers on the menu. If you’re not headed out Richmond way, stop by their Covent Garden branch. In addition to their standard service they also host a series of pasta masterclasses and floral workshops.

The Ladbroke

Set on a residential side street in Holland Park, the Ladbroke Arms’ terrace is a haven for after-work relaxation, where hanging flower baskets and rosy-cheeked customers come in equal parts. Inside, the furniture is crammed in so tightly that plates of rare lamb and fresh seafood spill over neighbouring tables. In the winter patrons move into the dining room, which is cosy and decorative – the space is too familiar for a burgeoning romance, but perfect for friends and family. The menu changes daily, but last time we checked the octopus stew with chickpeas, olives and couscous sounded like a good dish to round off a weeknight.

Over Under Coffee

Earl’s Court is arguably better known for its tube station and exhibition centre than it is for great food and good vibes. Or it least that was the case until recently. Over Under, an independent, community-led coffee shop has opened up shop, serving delicious food and quality coffee in an area that quite frankly needed a boost.

Founded by young entrepreneur Ed Barry, the café is inspired by the coffee culture of New Zealand (where his family is from) as well as by the cities of Dublin and New York (where he has lived and worked for the past five years). Ed’s team of baristas, also known as Barryistas (yes, we know) are fun and friendly in equal measure. Chef Connie Grossman steers the kitchen and whips up a mean avo toast or grilled cheese sandwich, while those short on time can grab a pastry to go. On a Friday night the team have been known to lock in customers for after hours parties that spill out onto the streets, fuelled by outrageously potent espresso martinis. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

Farm Girl, Chelsea

Those who have visited the charming Notting Hill branch will know that the scrumptiosness of Farm Girl is a pretty poorly kept secret. Now, the healthy Australian-influenced cafe has opened its first all day restaurant in Chelsea. From superfoods to sweet treats, Farm Girl’s menu is healthy but not holier than thou. The menu is fresh and varied – standouts include the dukkah cod and the popcorn cauliflower. With interiors likened to a Malibu dream house, the suitably girl decor makes for a Instagram-centric dining experience.

The Cow

Mazi

Carousel

Dinings

River Café

The Ledbury

Petersham Nurseries

The Ladbroke

Over Under Coffee

Farm Girl, Chelsea

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