to-eat-warsaw-city-guidePhoto: Francesca Petryszak

Warszawa Wschodnia by Mateusz Gessler

If you’re venturing out to Praga, try this Polish-French restaurant around the corner from the Neon Museum for hearty, filling classics delivered from its cavernous open kitchen where you can watch its chefs at work. In good weather, grab a seat on the deck and tuck into Russian dumplings, a hefty portion of venison or cod on a bed of beetroot ribbons.

MOD

Doughnuts. Ramen. What more need we say? By day this unassuming, concrete-walled spot serves up fat doughnuts in flavours such as matcha and coconut by founding duo Kamila and Patrycja, who are also the owners of the cool bar Regina. By night the focus switches to ramen variations including green-tea noodles with truffles in a seaweed broth.

Lukullus Ice Cream

If the Fresh Prince of Bel-Air and Studio 54 designed an ice-cream shop, it might look like this. The latest invention from popular patisserie Lukullus, this disco-fabulous launch in Powislé features milkshake-pink breezeblocks, bronze palm trees and flavours including jasmine and mango or orange and saffron. Oh, and a golden posterior that dispenses the loo roll.

Eden Bistro

A residential house in the trendy Saska Kepa area not only houses this vegan eatery but is also the headquarters of food- inspired magazine USTA. Plants creep across the skylights, quirky illustrated plates hang on the walls and the outdoor greenhouse is filled with fashionable types gorging on avocado tacos, creamy laksa and glasses of orange wine.

Opasły Tom

Head chef Flavia Borawska offers modern Polish cuisine within walking distance of the Old Town against a sage and pink, Wes Anderson-worthy backdrop. Once you’ve finished Instagramming, try the smoked catfish with yoghurt and peas and the cold soup with sour cucumbers, paired with Polish wine chosen by sommelier Natalia Stankiewicz.

Ale Wino

The first recommendation on any Varsovian’s lips, Ale Wino is hidden down an unassuming downtown driveway and began life as a wine shop. Today it serves local, seasonal produce in an unpretentious setting – grab an outdoor table on balmy nights – and even the kale salad is noteworthy. The owners also recently opened the pastry shop Kukułka nearby.

U Kucharzy

The perfect restaurant to experience upscale Polish food among an international crowd. U Kucharzy has a boozy atmosphere, which lends itself well to celebratory group dinners. I recommend ordering traditional Polish favorites like the duck served with roasted apples and the steak tartare, which is made table-side.

  • +48 22 826 79 36
  • National Museum of Archaeology
    Długa 52
    00-001

Charlotte

Charlotte is the place to brunch in Warsaw. It can be hard to get a table here on weekends because it sometimes feels as though all of Warsaw’s it-crowd rolled out of bed and made their way to Charlotte at the same time. During the warmer months, tables spill out onto trendy Plac Zbawiciela square, making the chances of finding a table much more likely. Order the salmon tartine and the “Charlotte breakfast” (fresh croissants with a variety of delicious chocolate spreads).

Hala Koszyki

Hala Koszyki is a revitalized 1909 market hall that is now home to numerous restaurant and grocery concepts. It just opened, so it is still buzzing with locals trying to find a seat at one of the communal tables. This is a great spot for a casual dinner or weekend brunch.

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