deia mallorca mountains house sunset

Somehow, Mallorca still manages to remain relatively untapped in comparison to its neighbouring Spanish islands. Admittedly, Magaluf booms into action every summer on the west side (which, for a one-off visit, isn’t always a bad thing. Whipped cream and fish bowls, anyone?) but the remaining regions of the island still possess an unmistakably unique charisma.

For first time visitors, Mallorca is a place of infinite bicycle lanes tracing the ocean, terrains of dusty, jagged rocks and sparkling waters. For those returning, there is the familiar inner city of Palma with its peachy houses and gothic cathedral, the sprawling beaches and the constant promise of cheap wine and bar snacks. But to both first timers and old timers alike, there is endless charm to be found.

Year after year we return to this island, and we always stay in the old fishing village of Portixol, which is a 10 minute walk along the beach to the centre of Palma. Once you’ve experienced the enchanting beauty of this area, it’s hard to venture further. But this summer we took the old wooden train out of Palma to Soller, famous for its sunny lemon groves. We spent the day wandering the narrow streets overlooked by craggy mountains. From there we snaked up the mountains to Deia, which lies on the northern ridge of the island. It is the former home of Robert Graves, and undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places in the world. The village faces the sea, which for most of the day is covered in sunlight, while fig and olive trees stud the hills. We bought marmalade made with the area’s legendary oranges and drank beer overlooking the Mediterranean. Mallorca has a habit of making you forget the time.

For the most part on this recent trip, we lay on beaches until the sun sunk down and threw a sudden orange glow over Palma. We wandered into the city to eat pintxos with the locals before heading to dinner at one of the many new restaurants in the shabby/stylish area of Santa Catalina.

For as long as we love food, wine, sun and good leather, we will keep coming back to Mallorca. Although it is becoming more popular, there is an unequivocal magic to this island that no amount of tourism could take away. We can’t imagine anywhere more charming to overeat, under-exert and aimlessly wander away our summers.

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