Barcelona offers countless attractions, but the best way to enjoy the Catalonian capital? Act like a local. Once you've ticked off the Sagrada Familia and rambled through the Gothic Quarter, head off the well-trodden tourist path to one of these alternative neighbourhoods. Dense with late-night tapas bars, speciality coffee shops and their own Gaudí masterpieces, each of these barrios showcases Barcelona's biggest draws. Whether you're looking for culture and history, exquisite cuisine or pisco sours to sip into the early hours, we've got you covered. And the best thing about all of these locales? You're never more than 20 minutes away from a glorious stretch of sand and sea.
Barcelona's coolest neighbourhoods – from Sant Antoni to Vila de Gràcia
Mercat de Sant Antoni’s ceiling, left, and a city street
Where to stay: Casa Elliot
Sant Antoni
The perpetually crowded Mercado de La Boqueria is one of Barcelona’s top foodie attractions. But head just a little further out and you’ll reach Mercat de Sant Antoni, a sprawling web of stalls and restaurants set in an unmissable 19th-century steel-frame building. Our tip? Head here on a Sunday to catch the vintage books and collectibles market found under the intricate, red-painted wrought iron roof. After feasting your eyes on jamon and trawling through dusty classics, sit down for a proper brunch on the sunny terrace of Federal Café, followed by a slow mooch through independent shops such as Trait for curated fashion, Fatbottom for rare comics, and Manifesto for vintage jewellery and furniture. Devour plates of patatas bravas, fresh octopus and anchovies at local favourites Bar Calders, Bodega Gol and El Pollo – the last of which is worth the trip for its blackened wobbly cheesecake in itself – and make a pit stop at the Horchatería y Turrones Sirvent for a scoop of gelato, or at Bar Olimpic for a late-night cocktail.Where to stay: Casa Elliot
The bar at The Hoxton Poblenou, left, and views across the neighbourhood from the hotel’s rooftop terrace
Where to stay: The Hoxton, Poblenou
El Poblenou
During the Industrial Revolution, El Poblenou was dubbed the “Manchester of Catalonia”. These days, it’s better known as the “Silicon Valley of Barcelona”. Glistening facades tower over red-brick mills repurposed as art galleries, vegan cafés and coworking spaces. Forget the cramped streets of the city centre: El Poblenou’s abundant space has seen it transform into a hotspot for design. The barrio is home to the Barcelona Design Museum, located on the east side of Ciutadella Park, as well as jaw-dropping contemporary architecture such as Enric Ruiz Geli’s futuristic Media-ICT building. El Poble Nou literally means “new village” in Catalan, but it still retains an old-world charm. Rummage through curios at Els Encants flea market, or book a ticket to the monthly Palo Alto Festival, a trendy event for curated fashion and furniture that takes place inside a plant-filled factory complex. Stroll along Carrer de Marià Aguiló, a quaint shopping street lined with orange trees and cosy tapas bars including Casa Rita. Pop by Mamá Heladera, a family-run ice-cream parlour that’s been serving unusual flavours such as olive oil with honey, cinnamon and cloves for over 100 years. And, if your main draw to Barcelona is the sea, El Poblenou is the closest you’ll get to the city’s calmest beaches. The best spot for an ocean-view paella? It’s got to be Can Fisher.Where to stay: The Hoxton, Poblenou
Pinchos at La Vermu, left, and indie mags and caffeine at News & Coffee | Credit: La Vermu, News & Coffee
Just a few stops north on the metro from Las Ramblas, Vila de Gràcia is a village-like barrio with a distinct Catalan charm. Its little streets are filled with rustic bakeries, snug tapas bars and retro dessert parlours. Head here on a Saturday lunchtime and grab a table at any of the eateries facing the central plaza. Sip on vino blanco or leaf through an indie mag from News & Coffee, a kiosk serving up curated reads and frothy flat whites. For a snack, get in line at A Casa Portuguesa for a delectable pastel de nata, or Kakigori for shaved ice, fluffy Japanese cheesecake and savoury onigiri. End the day at La Vermu, a buzzy hangout loved for its vermouth, pinchos and pickled gildas (olive, anchovy fillet and chilli skewers).
Where to stay: Sonder La Casa del Sol
Vila de Gràcia
Just a few stops north on the metro from Las Ramblas, Vila de Gràcia is a village-like barrio with a distinct Catalan charm. Its little streets are filled with rustic bakeries, snug tapas bars and retro dessert parlours. Head here on a Saturday lunchtime and grab a table at any of the eateries facing the central plaza. Sip on vino blanco or leaf through an indie mag from News & Coffee, a kiosk serving up curated reads and frothy flat whites. For a snack, get in line at A Casa Portuguesa for a delectable pastel de nata, or Kakigori for shaved ice, fluffy Japanese cheesecake and savoury onigiri. End the day at La Vermu, a buzzy hangout loved for its vermouth, pinchos and pickled gildas (olive, anchovy fillet and chilli skewers).
Where to stay: Sonder La Casa del Sol
An exhibition at centre of modern art, Joan Miró Foundation | Credit: Fundació Joan Miró, Barcelona/Davide Camesasca.
Where to stay: Casa Vaganto
El Poble Sec
El Poble Sec is an oasis of calm situated at the foot of Montjuïc, a hill overlooking the port that’s home to some of the city’s best museums, theatres and historic landmarks. Start your day with a scenic hike to the Castle of Montjuïc, a fortress known as the birthplace of the city’s earliest civilisation. For modern art, head to the Joan Miró Foundation; for some R&R amid native flora and fauna, try the Botanical Garden; or catch contemporary interpretations of Shakespeare at Teatre Lliure. El Poble Sec is quieter than most central neighbourhoods, but don’t be fooled – it’s still home to some of the city’s best restaurants and bars. Quimet & Quimet, a boisterous standing tapas bar on the city's famous “Pinchos Street”, is a must. If there’s room for seconds, stroll over to Koska Taverna for its unmissable gooey omelette, or, for an unconventional alternative to Spanish small plates, try Napoli Centrale’s authentic Italian pizza. End the night at one of the district’s raucous drinking dens: Mau Mau, a friendly basement bar, offers 35 types of gin, plus table tennis – and plenty of comfy sofas when you want to rest your feet.Where to stay: Casa Vaganto
Lebanese-influenced tapas at Albé, left, and a DelaCrem staff member
Where to stay: Ohla Eixample
L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample
Eixample is a sprawling district of six neighbourhoods that wrap around Barcelona’s central Gothic Quarter. L'Antiga Esquerra de l'Eixample is the liveliest of the lot, with a strong LGBTQ presence – many of its bars and shops are central to the city’s annual Pride events. Here, you’ll find plenty of queer club nights, but before all that, line your stomach at one of the area’s trendy dining spots. Mikan is a relatively new hangout serving Asian fusion and low-intervention wine. There’s also Albé Barcela, for tapas with a Lebanese touch, or, for something more traditional, La Flauta, for fresh seafood, jamon and crispy patatas. In the daytime, take a scenic walk from the modernist home Casa Pere Company to one of the city’s lesser-known art nouveau gems, Casa Sayrach. Continue south until you reach Plaza del Doctor Letamendi, a leafy, pedestrianised square with a cluster of vibrant bars and eateries. Soak up the sun with a scoop from DelaCrem, or sit down for duck paella at Telefèric – perfect for a lazy Sunday lunch.Where to stay: Ohla Eixample
