Hidden beyond a pair of imposing iron gates, up a fleet of
marble stairs and behind a hefty, wooden door, sits Sobretablas –
an eco-conscious, fine-dining restaurant decorated with gargantuan
tropical plants. It’s one of the newer additions to Seville’s
restaurant scene and noted by Michelin for its good value.

This joint hasn’t changed much in the past 50 years. In the
front room, fine wines are sold from wooden cabinets of curiosities
and hulking legs of ham hang from the ceiling. Delve farther in and
you’ll find an atmospheric bar with clay floors and walls lined by
antique wine vats with vintage film posters slapped on top.

Come here for the atmosphere, not the tapas. You’ll find a
coterie of local wine-lovers in this stand-up bar where gilded
frames jostle for space on the walls – it’s the textbook definition
of a “busy hang”. Its montaditos (small sandwiches) make for a
tasty amuse-bouche, but if you’re after something more substantial,
head elsewhere.

Foie gras with caramelised peanuts, anyone? Bread-crumbed prawns
with soy mayo, perhaps? This is one for experimental diners who
aren’t looking for the classic tapas experience. Book ahead. It
opened back in 2008, but an evening table here remains a hot
commodity among the city’s clued-up gastronomes.

Hold your breath; it’s a tight squeeze at this traditional tapas
bar which tumbles out onto the street in Santa Cruz. It’s a
discreet, non-touristy haven in the city’s most thronging
neighbourhood – just a hop, skip and a jump from Seville
Cathedral.

All the best tapas bars are pokey but precious, and this tiny
spot, speckled with old clay pots and strewn with cured ham, is no
exception. It has its fair share of competition on Plaza de la
Alfalfa – a sleepy square, teeming with under-sold restaurants –
but is one of only a few old-school tapas joints that caters to
gluten-free diners.

Thought tapas was a no-go zone for vegans? Well, you’re wrong.
Unlike most traditional tapas spots, this modern, sit-down
restaurant serves plant-based and veggie-friendly variants of
homegrown classics. There are a couple of meatier options on the
menu to placate tapas purists, too.

If you’re too tired to deal with the hustle and bustle of the
city’s stand-up tapas institutions, pull up a chair at Petit
Comité. It’s a fine-dining, table-service restaurant with more of a
Parisian bistro feel. Its small plates are riven with international
flourishes; expect beef tataki or cod with aioli, for instance.

If you can overlook the laminated menus, this place is a treat.
Situated on the pretty chequerboard that is Plaza de la Gavidia,
its kitchen serves all of the classically Andalusian tapas dishes
as well as a handful of more exotic temptations.

If you nab an outdoor table here in the summer, you’ll be
nibbling on pescaíto frito in the shadow of Seville Cathedral. Yes,
it sits in the muddle of touristy honey-traps in the city centre
but you’ll be hard-pushed to find a more comprehensive offering of
fish dishes at such a reasonable price.

Sunlight streams into this whitewashed courtyard which is
decorated with baroque tiles, minimalist brass light fixtures and
pared-back designer furniture. It’s a delightfully chic take on the
classic tapas bar with an elegant cocktail menu to match – ideal
for those who prefer to sip martinis than split a bottle over
dinner.

Take a pew at the open kitchen and watch Cañabota’s chefs sizzle
all manner of fish, prawns, langoustines and more into artfully
edited, tapas-sized portions. It might be one of Seville’s most
esteemed fish restaurants, but the vibe here is refreshingly
relaxed – no need to truss yourself up. Try the tempura rockfish
and corvina for starters…

For those who want to try Cañabota but lack the means, its
wallet-friendly sister restaurant is a must. The menu here is a
little shorter but no less exciting and you’ll still be served
fresh, catch-of-the-day produce too. Try the marinated sardines on
tomato-confit toast – it’s the stuff of local legend.

A stylish mishmash of abstract paintings, fabulously irregular
chandeliers and exposed industrial pipework hangs above diners at
this “slow-food” tapas restaurant. You’ll feast like a real
Andalucian here; all vegetables are plucked from the restaurant’s
own “huerta” (kitchen garden) and meat is sourced locally.