A textile paradise filled with woven rugs, butter-soft leathers and artisanal products, Fez is a laid-back alternative to frenetic Marrakech. In spring, temperatures sit around the low twenties - ideal for trawling the souks. In the heart of the medina is Riad Fes Maya Suite and Spa, a prized homestay bedecked with wood-carved ceilings, king-size canopy beds and intricate zellige (mosaics). Guests are invited to join the owner's mother, Fatima, for some local Fassi cuisine on the impressive roof terrace. Arrive hungry as a plates of smokey tagine and delicate almond pastries continue to appear in front of you.