Provence

Provence
in south-east France is famous for the French Riviera
or ‘Azure Coast’. Since the 18th century, its sunny shores have
been a magnet for the international jet-set who choose this stretch
of the Mediterranean coast for their summer rendez-vous. For most,
this part of France conjures up images of Cannes’ crowded Promenade
de la Croissette, sandy beaches in Saint Tropez and Monaco’s flashy
casinos. But Provence is a land of contrast. If you take a look
from above (my partner and I are lucky enough to take regular trips
in a plane known as a DR400) there are more hills and mountains
than sand stripes to be seen. But that’s not to say it’s not just
as good at ground level. In winter, when the sun is low and pale,
the few rays of light create dramatic shadows on the curves of this
deserted land. The peace and quiet is only disturbed by the moving
reflection of clouds rolling on the surface of pristine emerald
lakes. While Provence might scream summer holiday, in the colder
months the area reveals a wholly different charm – here are our
favourite winter spots.

The best way to discover Provence’s mountainous hinterland is to
fly into Nice, from which the Mercantour National Park is an easy reach to the east.
Wrap up for a one-day hike in the ‘Marvellous Valley’, so-called
due to its archaeological treasures of about 40,000 stone
engravings dating back to 3300BC. A truly mystical place which
couldn’t feel further from the superyachts (and supermodels) of the
coast.

To the north, the ski season in Alpes-de- Haute-Provence begins
at the end of November but the way the French school holidays fall
means that peak season isn’t until February, so impeccable slopes
remain relatively untouched for at least two months. The small town
of Barcelonette is ideally located at the crossroads of four
different ski stations, one of which is dedicated to beginners. In
the 18th century, many of the region’s inhabitants emigrated to
Mexico in Latin America to trade textiles who made a fortune abroad
before returning to the Alps where they showed off their newly
acquired wealth by building imposing villas… Mexican style. Château
des Magnans is one of those quirky architectural legacies dotting
the landscape. Just ten minutes from Barcelonette, this strange
castle is open to visit during the French holidays and doubles up
as a four-star hotel with spa from mid-December.

Just an hour by car from Barcelonette you’ll find Gap-Tallard
airport nestled in the mountains at 1966ft above sea level. Pull up
at pew at restaurant Le Looping, popular among paratroopers,
gliders and propeller plane pilots, who come here to refuel between
flights. With a clear view of the airstrips, you can tuck into
generous servings of homemade local cuisine while you watch flights
land and take off from the open-air terrace. If this unconventional
setting has got you lusting after your own adventure, after lunch
head southeast towards the Gorges du Verdon. The biggest canyon in Europe is
studded with natural caves and waterfalls and if the weather allows
it you can set off on an adrenaline-filled canoe tour.

Back in Nice, make your way into the La Pérouse Hôtel where you’ll enjoy
breath-taking views over the Baie des Anges. Access is through a
concealed lift located inside a house, with lush Mediterranean
vegetation surrounding each floor of the building. The roof terrace
is open all year round and its viewpoint overlooking the coastline
is one of the town’s best-kept secrets. Save a day to stroll
through the narrow streets of the old town and snack on local
delicacies such as socca (chickpea bread) and pissaladière (onion
pie). You may also catch the hotly anticipated Helmut Newton
exhibition – showcasing the work of the German-American fashion
photographer – which opens 17 February at the Charles-Nègre
photography museum.

Wintertime is also truffle season and 80% of the French ‘black
diamond’ harvest just so happens to be in Provence. The picturesque
town of Grasse hosts a market devoted to the crème de la crème of
mushrooms and several dog digging demonstrations, as well as
all-important tastings, of course. Grasse is also considered to be
the world’s capital of perfume – it’s the birthplace of iconic
Chanel N°5 – so a visit to one of the town’s numerous perfume
factories is a must. The bright-yellow, iconic Fragonnard
building is a wonderland for the nose, while you can also shop
local cosmetic brands such as highly addictive Plaisir des Sens, so
that you can bring a bit of winter Provence home with you.