A

A
man on the cutting edge of contemporary gemmology, Ara Vartanian is a
quiet force in the otherwise extrovert world of fine jewellery. The

Brazilian-born designer, who counts Kate Moss, Penelope Cruz,
Madonna and Blake Lively among his clients, is widely known for his
experimental approach to design. Computing inverted diamonds and
dramatic settings into wearable hardware, his signature hook
earrings, three-finger rings and one-of-a-kind pieces have a
quality that is undefinable; beguiling is a close estimation.

His designs always begin with the stone. “Over the years, I have
wanted to use large stones and with that comes the immediate
challenge of designing a piece of jewellery that is both
comfortable and symmetric. My classic two- and three-finger rings
came about purely because I needed the right infrastructure for the
weight, size and practicality of those big stones.”

Before starting his own jewellery house, Ara worked for his
father, travelling around the world sourcing precious stones.
Struck by the beauty of the stones from the back, he discovered
that “when reversed they have a pointy, dangerous tip and are
incredibly graphic in shape”. It was this perspective on design
that led to the creation of his inverted diamond pieces – now an
Ara Vartanian signature.

A one-time trader on the NASDAQ in New
York, the now Mayfair-based designer shares his insights on
design, exploring his hometown and discusses his fervour for
creation.

The best day to arrive into São Paulo is…

Definitely at the weekend – I would say Saturday. From a
practical point of view, there’s less traffic from the airport to
the city so you have more time to enjoy São Paulo. The city is so
alive at the weekends; you can enjoy the parks, the markets and the
street culture. On Sundays, there is the antique furniture fair,
Feira do Bixiga which we always go to.

Where can we try São Paulo’s best food?

My good friend Alex Atala’s place, DOM, is the best; he makes
typical Brazilian dishes with his own touch. I love being surprised
by ingredients sourced from all over the country, like pupunha palm
heart and tucupi (a yellow sauce extracted from wild manioc root in
the Amazon). Go for one of the tasting menus for the complete
experience and start with a caipirinha – usually made with lemon,
this one is mixed with a sweet, blueberry-shaped native fruit
called jaboticaba.

Best place for a romantic dinner?

Fasano, which is inside the hotel, is very elegant. Mani, has
great Brazilian dishes and a cool atmosphere.

What about after-work drinks?

Frank Bar, Riviera and Orfeu. Run by two French guys, Orfeu is a
brilliant Brazilian bar/restaurant situated in Old Town São Paulo.
Located in a former cash exchange – the Vila Normanda building –
designed by Oscar Niemeyer in the 1950s, the location alone is
amazing.

Where do you go to relax?

I love going for a shiatsu massage at Luiza Sato. Shiatsu is an
incredibly restorative Japanese practice and physical therapy that
supports and strengthens the body’s natural ability to heal and
balance itself.

Which are you favourite shops in São Paulo?

The NK
Store is a brilliant curation of global brands and Brazilian
designers, I buy a lot for my wife there. For vinyl, which I have a
collection of, the best place to source is Locomotiva Discos. For
vintage clothes and furniture, I would recommend A La Garçonne.

You’re known for your octopus and shark rings – does a lot of
your inspiration come from Brazil’s beaches?

Not as such. Generally, I am inspired by the objects and culture
I surround myself with – such as handmade crafts from a
pre-marketing era; the 40s, 50s and 60s in particular. I am hugely
interested in the functionality of objects – I collect classic cars
and motorbikes, so for me simple elements such as tube amplifier in
old cars and the intricacies of how items are created are
fascinating. Names for collections are often quite inconsequential
– the “shark rings” are named as such because, their graphic
“teeth” design looked like the open mouth of a shark. The octopus
rings were in fact design to evenly distribute the weight of large
precious stones used in cross-finger rings (as opposed to looking
like an actual octopus). It’s a similar story with my new cat
rings, only afterwards did I think, from an angle they looked like
a cat; the principle design and aesthetic came first.

Which are the Brazilian designers to watch?

Paula
Raia launched her line in 2010 and creates the most beautifully
modern dresses in organic fabrics. VOGUE Brazil adore her and I am
always so interested to see what she will do each season.

Tell us about your work with the Wai Wai indigenous women

It is so refreshing to be able to work with the Wai Wai women,
to collaborate and design in unison is a great privilege. Working
with the indigenous tribe and to see the work beginning in the
Amazon forest is, for a designer and maker, a real honour. The
process is then finished in my studio, it’s very much a 50/50 split
in regards to ownership of design; it’s a collaborative process.
The initiative also directly funds the tribe, financially through a
monthly percentage of sales but also in more personal and often
useful ways, such as medical supplies and education.

How should we spend 24 hours in the city?

I’d start with breakfast at Café Futuro Refeitorio; it’s located
in quite an industrial building but the food is great. After that,
visit The Fortes
D’Aloia and Gabriel Gallery or the Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo –
which was designed by architect Lina Bo Bardi. Next, break for
lunch at a truly great steakhouse – I recommend the 348 Corrientes.
After lunch, visit Luciana Brito Galeria which is located in a
superb 1950s house designed by architect Rino Levi. As night falls,
go for a drink at the Terraço Itália; it is one of the highest
buildings in Sao Paulo and they mix a great whiskey sour too.

Where is your favourite place to wake up?

There is a village called São Francisco Xavier just outside the
city that is so peaceful. You wake to the sound of nature, birds,
and waterfalls; it’s quite magical.

Where should we go to dance?

It’s not something that I do, but São Paulo is a city that you
can find almost everything you want. If I decide to go out, I’d go
to JazzB, Orfeu or Drosophyla.

Where would you take your friends if they are visiting for the
first time?

Ibirapuera Park for sure, with the architecture buildings
designed by the great Niemeyer, Mercado Municipal de São Paulo,
Teatro Municipal, Jardim Botânico de São Paulo, Casa de Vidro –
Lino Bo Bardi. In the last few years, São Paulo has opened new
cultural spaces around Paulista Avenue, such as SESC, Instituto
Moreira Sales, Japan House, Itaú Cultural.

Your ideal Sunday would be spent…

I love walking and people watching, so generally, a very lazy
morning is preferable. Perhaps breakfast at Café Girondino – one of
the oldest bakeries in the city – followed by a stroll along
Paulista Avenue watching all the local street artists and
musicians.

Your condensed address book would include…

Parque do Ibirapuera, D.O.M. and Feira do Bexiga.

Places we can visit in the city that are as colourful as your
collection?

Tomie Ohtake e Pinacoteca.

Are there any day trips away from the city you would
recommend?

I always go to the Praia Barra Do Sahy. Locals can often only
get there at the weekends, so if you were visiting I’d recommend
going during the week. It’s a very tropical beach, flanked by lush
greenery.

How should we spend the final day of our trip?

Pay a visit to Hugo Franca, an artist who creates “furniture
sculptures” using discarded trees and wood from forests. Materials
come from wood condemned by natural causes, such as inclement
weather. I collaborated on a centrepiece for my Bruton Place
boutique with Hugo; together, we travelled to Bahia to select the
1000-year-old wood for the tabletop and the table legs are carved
from crystal which I developed personally. If time allows, swing by
Casa do Porco for a pre-flight lunch.