You’ll find Mary’s Bar and Hardware Store just off the bustling
Grafton Street, located on the site of the former Wicklow Hotel,
which was once the watering hole of Irish revolutionary leader
Michael Collins. Today, patrons can choose from a wide range of
beverages, spanning beers to spirits (poitín – “Irish moonshine” –
included), to quench their thirst, before sinking their teeth into
one of Mary’s Bar’s signature toasties. For a taste of nostalgia,
choose from a selection of 90s confectionery classics (think Mint
Crisps and Clove Rocks), or, for a more substantial feed, pop down
to the Wowburger outpost in the basement for some lip-smacking fast
food.

Mulligan’s is one for those after a pint of the black stuff. A
classic, old-school pub, this was, in bygone days, visited by
notables including Judy Garland, James Joyce and John F. Kennedy.
As the story goes, JFK swung by in the mid-1950s (when working a
journalist with Hearst Newspapers) to see where Joyce supposedly
wrote some of Ulysses.

Situated near Grafton Street, the capital’s main shopping area,
Grogan’s sits at the crossroads between George’s Street Arcade and
the Powerscourt Centre. Outside seating is available and on a sunny
day crowds spill into the streets. This is a very sociable pub and
popular with a cross-generational crowd (of mostly locals), so be
prepared to chat with those at neighbouring tables about everything
from football to art and, of course, Grogan’s renowned ham and
cheese toasties.

The Temple Bar is the cherry-red crown jewel of the busy quarter
of the same name – and it’s worth battling the crowds to take in
some high-quality traditional music here while in town. Classic
staples like The Fields of Athenry and It’s a Long Way to Tipperary
are likely to be played on repeat late into the night. Established
in 1840, it’s always busy, always jam-packed and always has great
craic, making it figuratively and literally hard to leave.

Brimming with Victorian antiques, The Long Hall is a snug pub
with oodles of charm and character. Attentive bartenders add to the
atmosphere, but there’s no food menu (save for bags of peanuts and
Tayto crisps), so don’t show up hungry – this is really a place for
drinking. Over the decades, everyone from politicians to
playwrights have propped up the bar – in 1982, the late Phil Lynott
of Thin Lizzy even recorded part of the video for his hit song Old
Town here. You never know who you might meet…

Located on the corner of the narrow Dame Lane, The Stag’s Head
is close to Grafton Street and Trinity College, making it an ideal
pit stop in between sightseeing and shopping. Look out for the
stag-emblazoned, stained-glass windows to find the much-storied
drinking den, which has long been associated with film and
television – part of Educating Rita was taped here and, more
recently, Penny Dreadful – which further adds to its appeal.

Something of a Gemini, Whelan’s is a traditional pub on one side
– complete with snugs and fireside seating – and a music venue on
the other. A bastion of gig culture, it has had everyone from
Damien Rice to Glen Hansard take to its stage. For those looking to
break into the music scene, Whelan’s is a great platform. Scan for
bookers in the audience and have a few verses at the ready.

Loved by fans of craft beer, P. Mac’s is located on the corner
of Digges Lane and Stephen Street Lower, and a visit always spells
good fun. Play Cluedo or Connect Four as you snack on complimentary
retro crisps like Wheelies and Tayto Snax. Pub grub comes in huge
portions and Guinness is available on tap. The interior has a
decidedly Brooklynite vibe, with mismatched vintage furniture and a
mid-90s indie playlist.