Vila Nova de Milfontes
Bohemian Comporta lost its cool credentials when Jeff Bezos was papped in town last year; this summer, we're skipping the star-studded spot and making tracks to sea-gazing Vila Nova de Milfontes instead - a relaxed Alentejo town an hour-and-a-half's drive down the coast. Other than in August, when in-the-know Portuguese urbanites descend on the town for a holiday, swelling the population to around 50,000, Vila Nova de Milfontes is dramatically quiet compared to its regional neighbours, and has all the trappings of a typical fishing town, with a little-changed historic centre of jumbled whitewashed homes and narrow cobblestone streets, plus a distinctive (and dinky) ivy-clad castle. Powder-soft beaches are within walking distance - the dramatic dunes of Praia do Carreiro das Fazendas make it our top pick - while in the town centre, you'll find typically Portuguese restaurants and bars. Head to Choupana, an Atlantic-facing beach shack restaurant near the Farol de Milfontes viewpoint, for grilled fish, steamed clams and ruby-red carabineros.
Where to stay: Selina Milfontes