Coqui Coqui started life as a
perfumery before blossoming into a series of bohemian-cool
hotels. Today, its Mérida residency – and its ostentatious
bathrooms – has perhaps the greatest cult following of the Coqui
Coqui clan.

On arrival at Calle 55 – a busy colonial street in Mérida that
threads through its historic centre – you’ll be greeted by wafting
scents of tobacco and orange blossoms.

Entering the colonial-era town house (which feels more like a
private residence than boutique hotel) you’ll pass through a cavern
of intoxicating perfumes and fragrant candles displayed under bell
jars, en route to the check-in desk, charmingly tucked
three-quarters of the way under the stairs.

At check-in, you’ll likely confess (as we did) that this is one
hideaway you’ve posted about, repinned repeatedly and have dreamed
of visiting for quite a while.

Rooms

With minimal communal spaces reserved exclusively for guests, it
seems only justified that your bedroom be colossal. Enter the
ground-floor Carlota Suite via a private lounge area. This light
and airy sitting room is fitted with two sinkable, oversized chairs
to beckon you further inside. Through to the next room, your
wrought-iron bed, draped with muted maroon silk scarves, competes
with geometric tiles and a freestanding, claw-foot bathtub – those
seated out on the patio will spot you too – bear in mind when
bathing. Banana-leaf-print patio furniture and a gauche parrot
mosaic installed along the back wall of your private garden add
some zhuzh while large lanterns and crawling plants do nothing to
aid subtly. For weak-at-the-knees bathrooms, book out L´Epicerie,
comprised of two freestanding bathtubs plotted in the centre of a
Carrara-marble bathroom. His-and-hers vanities, chandeliers and
antique mirrors elevate atmosphere.

What’s for breakfast?

Included in your room rate, breakfast can be served anywhere you
like – in your room, on the roof terrace, in the courtyard or in
the café under a wall of framed, botany-style artworks. Our advice:
don’t set your alarm (though, do let the hotel know if you are late
risers) and enjoy a slow start to the morning in your suite. Order
Mexican eggs, toast (with all the trimmings), yoghurt and granola
and wash it all down with a tall glass of mango juice.

How about lunch and dinner?

While a casual lunch can be prepared on request (with notice),
the menu is by no means extensive. With no large kitchen or dining
space on site, we recommend 500 Noches restaurant for dinner, located just
five minutes down the street.

Is there a bar?

No. But your mini bar comes well stocked with mezcal, Mexican
beer and tequila. Those margarita glasses aren’t meant to be
decorative…

Amenities

Lay like broccoli on the upstairs sundeck. Petite in size, the
swimming pool is more for cooling off than doing laps. Still, with
honey-yellow walls, palms and graphic tiles, it’s easy on the eyes
and a great spot to recline and read a book.

Things I should know

Mérida is a great base for day trips. Head to the Uxmal pyramids
for scenes that would make Indiana Jones weak at the knees.

Within a short walk I can find…

Venture to El Colon for a mamey sapote fruit sorbet to cool off.
Then put your sugar high to good use and shop at Kukul
Boutik for traditionally influenced pieces with a contemporary
polish. Still energy to burn? Head to Fundación de Artistas next door to the hotel.