17 February, 2020
This unspoilt trio of islands off the northwest coast of Sicily
remain virtually unknown – except to well-heeled Italian families
who flock here for their summer holidays. Peppered with sandy
coves, hypnotic blue caves and yellow-shuttered, whitewashed houses
that seemingly tumble into the ramshackle fishing ports, it’s
equally suited to Lycra-clad active travellers as it is those
looking to chill with a cappuccino and Gillian Flynn’s latest
thriller.
On Favignana (the largest islet) there’s little need to do
anything, except perhaps, doze, bathe and dip into the waters of
Cala Rossa, gorge on platefuls of pasta con le sarde – a wild
fennel and sardine speciality – or watch the skies gradually turn
to lavender as you sip on a carafe of local wine.
Smallest in size and shaped by herb-strewn hills, Levanazo often
attracts energetic travellers looking to explore the network of
cycle paths that criss-cross the coast, bypass bobbing fisherman
boats and cut through the (only) village of Cala Dogana. While
rugged and wild Marettimo is the least visited of the set due to
its distance from the other isles and lack of accommodation
options, it is in no way the runt of the litter – in fact, its
steep rocky tuffs and artist’s palette of sea blues are among the
Egadi Islands‘ most arresting vistas.
Despite their proximity to Sicily’s mainland, this is no place
for day trippers. Locals are friendly but they don’t take kindly to
ferry-and-flop tourists. Plan to stay a for a while, ease into the
slow rhythm of coastal life and take time to explore each of the
islands.
Hopping over to Marettimo. Limestone cliffs crash into the sea
and donkeys graze in wildflower meadows. The aleppo pine-paved
groves are popular among hikers.
Someone who wants to tune into Mediterranean living without the
pomp (or price) of other Italian islands such as Capri and
Pantelleria.
April
through to mid-June
is the ideal time to visit; avoid July
to August.
The islands might not be the Amalfi Coast, but it is a sought-after
Italian holiday destination and during the summer holidays the
population trebles.
Design-driven Casa Faro Favignana.
Cacti-filled gardens with sunken firepits, polished-concrete
bathrooms and sea-view bedrooms far surpass any of the charming yet
slightly outdated offerings in Favignana’s centre.
Fishermen who will invite you on their rickety boats to show you
the nearby hidden coves, and then help you pick out a fresh lobster
to feast on.
A pair of trainers you can clamber over rocks in. These ones
from the new Rick Owens x Veja collab should
do the trick.
Fly to Trapani, then it’s a 20-minute ferry trip to
Favignana.
