Following

Following
a nail-biting week of road tripping around Corsica
and experiencing a variety of accommodation along the way (window
opening directly on to a main road, anyone?), it was pure pleasure
to draw in to the hidden trove that is Domaine Misíncu. The hotel is
situated on the Cap Corse at the rugged northern tip of the

island, a world away from more established tourist spots like
manicured Porto-Vecchio and Bonifacio in the south. On the hour’s
undulating drive from Bastia airport we watched the landscape
slowly change from crowded city to bucolic bliss as we passed
through ancient
fishing villages and quaint harbours huddled along the
coastline, before abruptly pulling off the road and into Domaine
Misíncu.

Previously known as Le Caribou, a glamorous hotspot for French
celebrities including Serge Gainsbourg, Brigitte Bardot and Alain
Delon in the 1950s, the hotel has been given a new lease of life by
owner Sylvain Giudicelli, a Corsican local who remembered the
bohemian bacchanals that used to be hosted there in his youth and
leapt at the chance to reinvent it for modern jet-setters. The
result is a soothing white oasis among the wild olive groves and
orange blossoms of the surrounding countryside
that is more modern but no less chic than its forerunner. The
third-floor, spa-like reception has more than a shade of the
American brand 1 Hotel about it, all twisted wooden tables and
snow-white stylings, and there’s an actual spa
at the end of a path through the trees outside.

Ultimately, however, we spent the majority of our time here
lounging on squishy day-beds and under cream umbrellas by the
hotel’s gorgeous
pool, or else taking the short track across the river that runs
through the resort to its private
beach and wading into the navy-blue waters of the bay. After a
week of competing with Corsican drivers, both proved the perfect
antidote.

Rooms

Beachy but bouji is the vibe here, with a seashell-like palette
of creamy whites and sandy browns accessorised with driftwood
sculptures, lamps reminiscent of fishing traps and, in our classic
room, sliding glass doors that opened out on to a view of the sea
beyond. We also appreciated the oddly flattering bathroom mirrors
and the window in the shower that allows you to enjoy the view from
inside. In addition to the main building’s rooms and suites there
is an apartment and several villas ranging in size for those who
want some extra privacy.

What’s for breakfast?

Although we didn’t make it to breakfast, we hear there’s a
hearty spread of locally sourced fare on offer.

How about lunch and dinner?

For lunch, follow the pathway through the trees and head to the
relaxed A Spartera, which is situated on the beach and sports
tables fashioned from driftwood. Here you can sit right in front of
the waves and order a selection of tapas, pizza or specials from
the grill while watching the surf roll in. By night, make a beeline
(as we did) for the gourmet restaurant Tra di Noi and grab a table
on the terrace outside overlooking the candy-coloured skies and
sapphire waters. Under head chef Clément Collet the emphasis is
very much on homegrown Corsican produce – think vegetables from the
kitchen garden, honey from the nearby beehives, fresh olive oil and
local charcuterie – as well as regional seafood, often joined
together in imaginative creations like the neat stack of avocado
and spider crab or unconventional pairing of john dory and
peach.

Is there a bar?

When you’re not dining at either of the above two spots, a drink
is never too far away – you can sip caipirinhas by the beach and
rosé by the pool.

Amenities

Atone for all the gourmet food and wine by heading to the
natural spa, which contains four treatment rooms, a sauna, a
Turkish bath and a coral-pink pool. There are special treatments
dedicated to skincare, as well as a bespoke wellbeing and fitness
programme that includes beachside yoga.

Things I should know

The twisting car journey along the meandering coastline from
Bastia airport is beautiful, but unfortunately more than a little
nausea-inducing. Pack your travel sickness pills…

Within a short walk I can find…

If you can tear yourself away from the hotel’s pool and private
beach, the cute nearby fishing villages and harbours offer up
oodles of authentic Corsican charm and there are plenty of hiking
trails through the un-manicured olive trees.