Great Escapes: Hoi An, Vietnam

Great Escapes: Hoi An, Vietnam

This stunning and compact little town in central Vietnam might be small enough to walk in under an hour, but it packs enough of a culinary and cultural punch to keep you charmed for days on end.



This
stunning and compact little town in central Vietnam might
be small enough to walk in under an hour, but it packs enough of a
culinary and cultural punch to keep you charmed for days on
end.


Nestled between a beautiful stretch of pristine beach and the
crook of the lazy Thu Bon river, Hoi An’s long and illustrious
history as an international trading port is writ large on its
elegant and eclectic mix of Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese and
French colonial architecture. The remarkably well-preserved old
town is Hoi An’s star attraction, so picturesque it almost looks
like a film set; chinese lanterns float above alleyways and canals
flanked by canary yellow and dark-wood shopfronts. Among these
you’ll find everything from tailors and ice cream parlours to
museums and performance spaces, as well as some of the best food
and drink anywhere in Vietnam. You won’t find a car or motorbike in
sight after 7pm in the old town – a blessed relief for anyone who
has spent time in this part of the world – and while it’s hardly
tourist free, the swell of people is more an endorsement than
nuisance and gives this ancient town the vibrant buzz of
contemporary Vietnamese life.


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Get tailored in the old town

Tailor shops are abundant in the old town, offering everything
from men’s suits and silk shirts to traditional Vietnamese dresses
and robes. They’re a big draw for tourists and lend the old town
much of its charm. These shops are actually just for taking
measurements and orders, the tailoring being outsourced.
Regardless, you can walk away with an incredibly well made, bespoke
item inside of three days.

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Cycle into the countryside

Although it can get fiercely hot in high season, Hoi An’s flat
topography and breezy cradle between the beach and river makes it
ideal for cycling, especially early in the day. Trace the road
along the riverfront and cross over to the larger islands to see
Vietnamese rural life at its most picturesque, complete with
half-built pagodas, water buffalos and miles of rice paddies. You
can pick up a bike from almost any hotel or guesthouse.

TO EAT

Vietnam is a nation famous for its food, with each province
offering something deliciously different, but Hoi An takes the
culinary crown with these signature dishes…


Cao Lau

Vietnamese cuisine is rightly celebrated for its interplay of
flavour, texture and its regionality and no meal does this so well
as Cao Lau. Just like Hoi An’s architecture, this signature local
dish reflects the town’s multicultural past. Thick, udon-style
noodles nestle in an unmistakably Vietnamese gravy, topped with
barbecued pork, slivers of crackling, and a side of fresh, minty
local greens to add at your discretion. Legend has it that Cao Lau
noodles can only be made with water from a specific well in the old
town. For the best Cao Lau during the day, try any of the busier
stalls in the central market. Once the sun goes down, head across
the bridge to An Hoi island and skirt left along the river’s edge
until you reach the last stand, Hi! restaurant. It’s great
alongside their duck spring rolls.

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Mi Quang

Another local speciality, albeit one you can get all across
Vietnam, Mi Quang (meaning Quang style noodles). It features flat,
deliciously slippery rice noodles in a slightly sweet broth,
usually topped with pork, shrimp, herbs and, if you’re getting the
real deal, a toasted square of sesame rice paper. Although named
for the noodles, the broth here is the real star; rich, intense,
artfully spiced. This is another one you’re best off sampling in
the market. If, however, you’re feeling adventurous you can get an
even better bowl at the street stands of neighbouring Da Nang,
although the surroundings won’t be nearly as atmospheric.

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Bia hoi and fried wontons

Bia hoi – fresh, frothy short-brewed draft beer – is unbeatable
for fighting Vietnam’s pounding heat. Bought fresh every day by
small bars and street stalls, these kegs serve up a drink light and
fruity enough to win over even the most staunch beer dodger.
Famously easy on the wallet, it costs the equivalent of around 10
pence. In Hoi An, bia hoi has found its perfect accompaniment:
fried wontons. A hangover from its Chinese merchant past, these
crispy, sauce-topped treats offer a salty, crunchy contrast to your
refreshing beer. This duo is available all over Hoi An but is best
sampled at Minh
Hien
vegetarian restaurant, after or alongside the crispy tofu
skin garlic rice or turmeric noodles.

TO SLEEP

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hotel

Hoi An River Town

Situated right in the heart of the action, this modern hotel
offers excellent amenities, unbeatable views and sleek, comfortable
and well laid out interiors. The pool is to die for – as are the
cocktails.

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hotel

Little Hoi An Boutique Hotel

Perhaps the most classically beautiful hotel in town, with
lacquered floors, traditional decoration and dark wood furnishings,
Little Hoi An comfortably sets itself among the old world glamour
which makes Hoi An so appealing. It also has a private beach and
spa.

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