Global Young Designer Spotlight: HELMSTEDT

Global Young Designer Spotlight: HELMSTEDT

The whimsical wardrobe of Danish designer Emilie Helmstedt is where art meets fashion. Talking us through her creative process, she lets us in on subverting trends, building the HELMSTEDT universe and creating connection in the age of distance.

child at heart, Emilie Helmstedt debuted her first collection,
Oceania, during Copenhagen Fashion Week in August 2018. Since its
inception, HELMSTEDT has been a brand steered by quality, comfort
and colour since its inception, and works extensively with
sustainable fabrics in order to reduce its environmental

A hybrid of art and fashion, every print is hand-painted by
Emile in Copenhagen – you’ll recognise HELMSTEDT pieces by the
highly visible, vibrant brushstrokes that adorn them. Taking
loungewear out of the bedroom, HELMSTEDT’s aesthetic centres around
colour and playfulness. Expect sunny, statement comfies, majestic
maxi dresses and an out-and-out, optimistic offering of



Designers name:

Emilie Helmstedt


Copenhagen, Denmark

Type of Brand:

Womenswear and fashion brand (clothing, sculptures, poetry)

Talk us through your creative process. Where do you begin?

The creative process for me has different starting points and
can stem from different impulses – things I read or see often drive
the initial phase. Step one is never fixed. I respect that the
creative process takes time and that the path towards the final
version of the print and style never follows one set template. Yet
quality, comfort and colour are at the core of every HELMSTEDT

Where is your studio? What’s the vibe?

The HELMSTEDT office and showroom is located in the centre of
Copenhagen. Here, we always take good care of each other, working
with an interdisciplinary approach to solve problems, communicate
and share ideas. The office is decorated with an old set design we

What songs do you have on repeat in your studio?

Sade is always a hit.

How would you define your aesthetic?

HELMSTEDT’s aesthetic is characterised by openness and
playfulness towards the way colours, shapes and expressions can
align. The happiness that colours can bring to everyday life serves
as a mantra for each collection. When you put on the designs, it
feels like you’re wearing little pieces of art.

Your prints are hand-painted and you build your own sets every
season – where does your DIY sensibility stem from?

I have always been drawn towards the tactile; building things
with my hands and transforming parts of my imagination, dreams and
desires into something tangible. It’s very freeing. I do not work
directly with trends. Instead, I navigate based on my emotions and
impulses. We sell collections to people who appreciate art,
individuality and emotional durability. We’re not defined by age or
our location in Denmark – we are building our own universe.

What role has social media played in your brand’s growth?

Social media plays an important role in the way we communicate
with and meet our customers. It allows us to extend the HELMSTEDT
universe even after the collections have been presented. I think we
all have increased our use and appreciation of social media during
the pandemic.

The SS21 collection that we presented during Copenhagen Fashion
Week in August 2020, revolves around that feeling of being
connected even though being apart. We made a sculpture in
celebration of love and connection – it has been travelling around
different locations in Copenhagen.

Shop your own line. What are three of your favourite

For autumn, I reach for items from the AW20 collection, which is
available now on the HELMSTEDT site: our knitted trousers, the
Maid Dress in Berries and the Safety Mask – made out of deadstock from past seasons,
it’s particularly handy right now.

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