Iranian

Iranian
culture is a curious medley of Islamic, Persian and
Western influences. It was, in many ways, the cradle of
civilisation: Iranians were writing books while people in West
still played with fire. Even today, the country prizes education
and cosmopolitanism. Its cultural tapestry separates from the rest
of the Middle East; its people speak Farsi (not Arabic) and adhere
to the Shia branch of the Islamic faith (as opposed to the Sunni
Islam practiced in areas such as Saudi Arabia and Iraq).

Yet the country’s 1979 Islamic Revolution saw the booting out of
the ruling Shah who was then considered too corrupt and
Western-influenced by the religious clergy. Instead, there was a
return to Islamic purity and a clamp down on Western dressing.
Where Iranian women had once dressed in a similar fashion to their
American counterparts, vibrant garments and anything perceived to
be emulating Western clothing or promoting sexuality was
restricted. The hijab became legal requirement.

So, while fashion designers in secular societies experimented
and flourished – bound only by trends and sales figures – Iranian fashion designers were constrained by
theocratic law. Most stayed within the guidelines, but, inevitably,
others began to rebel and push boundaries. The internet aided this
sartorial rebellion, transcending national borders and proving
difficult for the state to police.

Earlier this year, as Iran scaled back its nuclear programme and
the UN lifted socio-economic sanctions against the country, its
fashion industry has once again fallen onto the global stage.

Overseas brands wanting to tap into the Iranian retail appetite
– predominantly Italian – have eagerly opened franchises across
Tehran. Yet Iran has a fashion pulse of its own, with a rich
textile history, an eerily beautiful aesthetic and colour palette.
The Iranian fashion industry is finding it feet, overcoming
morality politics and pushing the boundaries with creative
spirit.

We look at five Iranian brands that have got the industry
talking.