Buenos Aires is the city of tango. Across the Argentine capital locals seem to practise their moves with passion on every street corner.
It was in the Balvanera neighbourhood that I visited Complejo Tango, where novices like myself can train with professional dancers before watching a world-class show and indulging in a typical Argentinian meal.
Inside, the lounge was dark, moody and sensual. As I took my posit ion on the stage there were 25 candlelit tables spread intimately across the floor below. An accordion player piped up from a balcony above before, one by one, a full orchestra - guitar, piano, bass, percussion and vocals - joined in. Trying to avoid treading on my partner's toes, I took one step sideways, two steps back, one across and one forward.
Later I left it to the professionals. Four pairs of dancers tangoed the fine line between subtlety and passion, changing their costumes and dancing styles to illustrate the evolution of the art over the past century. If only I could have made it look that easy.