08 November, 2019
Bringing
together original Chagall works and flower-laden
terraces with views stretching to the Côte d’Azur, hotel Le Saint Paul is a popular posting
in the
French Riviera‘s most bohemian neighbourhood.
For a taste of the picturesque countryside, look no further than
Saint-Paul-de-Vence in Provence. Tucked between the hills of
Nice
and Alpes-Maritimes, this superlatively beautiful settlement, known
for its art, is among the region’s best. With original Chagall
works adorning its silken walls and flower-laden terraces
overlooking the maze of cobbled streets, it’s easy to see why Le
Saint Paul is deemed to be one of the area’s most popular
postings.
Narrow corridors lead to generously sized rooms at Le Saint
Paul. There’s a total of 16 bedrooms, including 13 suites. Room 18
is a standout; it’s spacious, with red- and mauve-striped linen
wallpaper and interiors that border on vampish – a canopied bed,
gilded mirrors and velvet brocade add to this sultry mood.
Populated with objets d’art, this is a space in which you’ll scan a
selection of antiques and oddities – think brass pug-shaped
bookends and chinoiserie-style, lacquered urns – positioned on
every available surface. Peep through your window for vistas across
backstreets and the Provençal countryside beyond.
Rates exclude breakfast, so deciding on what break your fast on
is likely to be your first (and only) chore of the day. The
continental costs €22, so we suggest going all out and throwing in
a couple extra quid (€8 to be exact) and selecting the “Le Saint
Paul” option in which you can sample the sweet- and cold-buffet
selection – think: bread, daily pasties, cheese plates etc. – in
addition to hot dishes (the omelettes are worth the price hike
FYI). Linger over whichever breakfast you choose between 7.30am and
10am (although late risers can order breakfast to their room until
noon). Weather permitting, take a table on the terrace, amid
hibiscus and bougainvillea.
Serving modern Mediterranean cuisine with an emphasis on
seasonal flavours, Le Saint Paul’s Michelin-starred restaurant is
one to book in advance. It occupies two dining rooms – choose
between a candlelit space with vaulted ceilings and flower and
fruit murals, and the salle a manger fitted with a romantic
fountain. Lunch is served between 12.30pm and 1.45pm, while dinner
is dished up between 7.30pm and 9.45pm. Whatever time of day you
choose to dine, always save room for dessert – we recommend the
iced lavender macarons and the caramelised puff pastry served with
blackcurrant and peach sorbet.
No, but guests can enjoy an afternoon tea of homemade biscuits,
cakes and tarts on the ground-floor lounge. Chase your tea or
coffee with a stronger pour from decanters of whisky or brandy
stocked just behind the sweet treats on offer.
Does free WiFi count?
Nice is a quick 30-minute drive away, and free parking is
offered 50m from the hotel. Canine companions can come stay too,
for €50 a night.
A steep 15-minute walk from the hotel will take you to the
transfixing Maeght Foundation, founded in 1964 by Aimé and
Marguerite Maeght. Sculptures by Miró, Hepworth and Chillida line
the pathway to the museum entrance, which houses one of Europe’s
largest private collections of 20th-century and contemporary art.
Continue to “sample” the commune’s art offering by making a lunch
reservation at the renowned La Colombe d’Or.
