A Pocket Guide to Belleville, Paris
Bohemian in character and nocturnal in nature, the northeastern Parisian neighbourhood of Belleville provides an alternative city break to the French capital’s Seine-hugging central belt
01 September, 2022
Cross
the Boulevard de Belleville and you’ll be transported to a
hilly, artistic and lively village that thrums with life. Up until
the 1860s, this traditionally Parisian populaire (working-class)
neighbourhood was officially outside of the city – and locals still
have their own idiosyncratic way of doing things. The rectangle
enclosed by the Rue de Belleville, Rue Pixérécourt, Rue de
Ménilmontant and Boulevard de Belleville is packed with things to
do and see, from the hectic Chinatown district along Boulevard de
Belleville in the north, to the arty bookshops and natural wine
vendors that line the sloping Rue de Belleville.
Distinctive and diverse, Belleville has a healthy rebellious
streak – it was a rallying point of various uprisings throughout
the 1800s – and an open-minded attitude, with plenty of ethnic and
religious minorities living side by side in a kind of cultural
hotch-potch. As you make your way around, expect to share the
pavement with local artists draped in chic thrift-store finds and
hear street vendors hawking fresh fruit and veg. It’s an off beat
part of town, and refreshingly affordable with plenty of
bouis-bouis (cheap and down-to-earth) dining spots dotted
around.
The whole neighbourhood, whose hills were once the site of
gypsum quarries, slopes like a pinball board, adding character (and
a workout) to a walk around town. Appreciate the lofty views from
Rue de Belleville: as you climb the street, you’ll start glimpsing
the iron spire of the Eiffel Tower in the distance. Those who make
it to the top are rewarded with one of the best views (and some of
the nicest café terraces) in town. If it suits you better, you can
also climb the street aboard the 96 bus.
Art lovers will appreciate the studios and dinky galleries that
dot the area, many of which are open to the public. After hours,
head to some of Paris’ best going-out venues to dance the night
away. Start the evening with happy-hour cocktails at local
favourite Aux
Ours on Rue des Pyrénées, before heading round the corner to
La Bellevilloise. Spend the night dancing to DJs
spinning electro beats or live bands playing jazz and soul,
depending on that week’s visiting musicians.
Bohemia, jazz beats and bouis-bouis: a guide to Paris’ edgiest
neighbourhood
hotel
Babel Hotel
As the name alludes to, this stylish boutique hotel celebrates
the diversity of the Belleville-Ménilmontant area. Its director,
Joris Bruneel, worked facilitating hotel acquisition for giants
like Accor before deciding to open this more personal,
neighbourhood spot following the shock of the November 2015 attacks
on Paris. The joyous decor features paintings from local artists,
and the restaurant – helmed by French-Afghan chef Clarie
Féral-Akram – plays with Silk Road flavours on a colourful,
veg-packed menu. A vibrant brunch offering includes coffee from
local La Brûlerie de Jourdain. Cosy rooms blend modern and vintage
elements, and guests are invited to book “ritual” treats, including
massages, magnet therapies and even tarot readings, to embellish
their stay.
hotel
Hôtel Scarlett
Hôtel Scarlett offers lots of character at an affordable price.
Housed inside a formerly industrial building that stood empty for
years, it’s known for its great design and high-quality amenities.
In the common areas, typical Parisian parquet floors blend with
industrial light fixtures and photographic art on the walls. You
can expect a warm welcome and comfortable rooms, each one decorated
a little differently. The hotel has curated a list of local
recommendations for guests, from restaurants to galleries, making
exploring the area a breeze.
hotel
The People – Paris Belleville
The People offers a cool, modern take on traditional hostels –
think YMCA for the TikTok generation. Inside the Belleville branch,
you’ll find games rooms, communal lounges and a rooftop area with
panoramic city views. The lively bar serves pizza and locally
brewed beers and hosts regular live-music nights, including
electric jazz jam events. Pick from clean and functional dorms,
smart private rooms and spacious ensuite family set-ups.
