Four tips for vegan travellers

Cuban

Cuban
cuisine is much more than rice, rum and beans. As the
country caters to tourists and embraces global food trends, the
scarcity of imports and abundance of local produce mean that

vegan fare is among Cuba‘s
best gastronomic offerings.

The Cuban diet

Welcome to
Cuba: land of rice, rum and beans. More and more tourists are
flocking to this colourful and mysterious country that promises
decaying buildings, beautiful people and dancing – lots of it. Yet
despite its top-grade rum and the infinite cocktails that are
shaken and stirred to perfection, Cuba’s culinary landscape is
readily snubbed.

The Caribbean diet primarily consists of tropical fruit, starchy
vegetables, rice, beans and meat, and in Cuba the diet changes
according to what’s in season as well as the availability of
imported goods. Cuba trades primarily with communist countries such
as China and Venezuela and, as a result, resources remain limited
and meals are often cobbled together with indigenous ingredients
such as yucca, maize, sweet potatoes, bananas, eggs, meat, coffee
and pulses. There’s a lot of dried goods and things in tins.

Nevertheless, despite continuous food shortages across the
island, restaurateurs and chefs are creating deliciously innovative
dishes – some of which are plant-based – proving that Cuban fare
can be a culinary attraction in its own right. What’s especially
impressive is Cubans’ ability to stay on top of global food trends
and create menus that are at once dynamic and flavoursome.

Restaurants responding to global tastes

When it comes to plant-based cuisine there are plenty of
options, and vegans will no doubt be relieved to hear that it’s
more than just rice and beans. Major cities and large towns –
including
Havana, Trinidad and Viñales – have many international and
traditional Cuban restaurants with menus clearly labelling whether
the dishes are suitable for the meat-free among us.

International restaurants are tailored to tourists’ tastes (and
budgets), so their dishes tend to be more experimental and
in-keeping with global food trends. Chefs in such kitchens can
often afford to source imported ingredients, such as speciality
cheeses and wines. Tucked away in Havana’s trendy student
neighbourhood of Vedado, Mediterraneo Habana is a restaurant doing
just that, making the most of Italian ingredients such as ricotta,
mozzarella and oregano. For under 5 CUC (£3.90) for a stone-baked
marinara pizza, vegans can enjoy some of the best slices outside of

Naples here.

Al Pirata in Old Havana (Habana Vieja) is one of the few
restaurants in the capital with a menu that is 50 per cent vegan
and driven by a sustainable, locally sourced ethos. “Even the hot
sauce is made by us and is 100 per cent vegan,” says head chef,
Guillermo. When I ask him if he’ll share the recipe, he hesitates,
before whispering, “chilli, papaya, basil, olive oil and water.
That’s it.”

Is veganism sustainable in a country with a limited supply of
imported ingredients? “It’s easy,” adds Guillermo. “The Caribbean
diet is largely fruit and vegetables anyway, so it’s cheaper for
us.” Al Pirata is in its infancy. Before it became a restaurant, it
sold ice cream and smoothies, but just after just four months with
an expanded menu, the business is thriving.

What’s available: Caribbean dishes (which happen to be
vegan)

Cubans are known for their resourcefulness, a byproduct of the
US trade embargo. This dictates what’s on the menu – if there’s a
chicken shortage, then there’s no chicken for dinner. Due to the
Venezuelan crisis, food shortages are happening more and more
frequently. It isn’t uncommon to see Cubans queuing up in 40-degree
heat to access rationed goods. Restaurants are quick to respond to
such scarcities and will hastily replace ingredients with
substitutes. Ask for fried potatoes and you may receive fried
malanga – a similar root vegetable – in its place.

For breakfast, there is an endless supply of pineapple, coconut,
bananas, mango, papaya and guava, and you can buy these from
merchants in the street. Most restaurants serve a hearty breakfast
of bread, fresh fruit juice, eggs (vegans: omit the egg) and
coffee, which is deliciously thick and robust, all for less than 5
CUC.

In traditional Cuban restaurants, vegans and vegetarians can
count on a few staple dishes that are usually safe options. Try the
various soups on offer – flavours often include black bean and
pumpkin – although check they don’t contain beef or pork stock.
Incidentally vegan sides include sweet potato, fruit salad, sautéed
vegetables, fried green bananas and plantain – a favourite for its
for gooey, melt-in-your-mouth feel. If ordering black beans and
rice (or “Moors and Christians” as it’s commonly known), do ask if
it contains meat – pieces of beef or pork and broth are sometimes
thrown into the mix.

Top six vegan dishes (and where to enjoy them)