The picture-perfect Psaras Taverna is living proof that romance
isn’t dead – even if it is just a taverna, it’s certainly stolen
our heart. Originally opening its doors in 1898, there are two
reasons why we’re feasting at this local favourite. Firstly, the
menu is a mix of Greek meets Italian – think: Lobster spaghetti and
olive-oil dressed salads. Secondly, it has one of the most dazzling
al fresco set-ups Athens has to offer – one with tables set on the
steps alongside the neoclassical building which, on warm evenings,
are covered in candles. Gaze upon the blood-orange sunset while
helping yourself to a fresh glass from an enormous carafe.

The saying goes: “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” and that’s
exemplified at Margaro located in Piraeus – a gritty port with a
blossoming creative community. Owner Margaro first left her
hometown of Mykonos to open this tiny taverna back in 1944. Today
it remains in the same spot and is now run by the late Margaro’s
son Lazaro and her four grandchildren – who have learned their
skills from the best. The daily menu remains pretty much identical
to when its first story started, edited to five fish dishes,
including shrimp, crayfish red mullets, koutsomoura and lithrini –
all plucked straight from the sea before being pan-fried. Snag a
side of the classic Greek salad and you’ll be hooked.

Named after the Greek philosopher, Diogenes is housed slap-bang
in the centre of Athens’ oldest (and, some might dare say,
best-loved) neighbourhood of Plaka. Just a short stroll from the
Lysicrates monument, this leafy courtyard makes for an ideal, long
lazy lunch hour. Tuck into lemon-drizzled lamb shanks, stuffed
cabbage rolls and orzo drenched in spicy tomato sauce. If the
weather is too sickly hot, slip inside to the cosy abode, where
pampas grass countertops, wishbone chairs and cupboards stashed
with all sorts of herbs and spices await.

The idea that a destination is best discovered through its food
sits at the core of Cafe Avissinia. Next door to the magnificent
Monastiraki flea market. and with Acropolis views, this
outrageously shabby-chic former tea house makes for the perfect pit
stop for family recipes and live accordion music. Round up the
troops and head straight to wooden banquette seating for a full
session of ouzo tasting and plate sharing. We’ll be making an
annual pilgrimage here, partly for its soutzoukakia meatballs and
barbequed chicken skewers, but also for the cosy interiors: Floral
wallpapers, bunting-draped ceilings and floor-to-ceiling vintage
mirrors. Don’t even think about leaving without trying the strained
yoghurt.

Curbside dining is a trend we’ll happily hop on, especially if
it looks like an evening in the city’s old industrial district of
Pertalone. Step forward, Therapeutērio. This traditional restaurant
is easing the appetites of the city’s cool and creative population,
thanks to its great-value prices and go-slow vibe. The menu
(chalked up on a blackboard) offers fried prawns, beetroot-stuffed
salad and a creamy tzatziki on tap. Come sunset, tables spill out
onto the sun-scorched streets – you’ll need to get down there early
to snag one.

If you’ve holidayed in Athens without visiting Ama Lachei, book
a one-way ticket – pronto. Situated in the art-filled district of
Exarchia, the restaurant is in a former school hidden down the
handsome street of Kallidromiou. Many of its original features,
including high-vaulted ceilings and 80s classrooms, make for an
authentic dining experience. You’ll want to visit on a midweek
evening, though, for the ultimate, balmy taverna experience. Wade
through the jasmine vines, take a seat alongside the citrus trees,
and the next pleasure is in the hands of the five-course
extravaganza.

An ivy-clad pergola, chequered tablecloths, sunshine-yellow
painted walls, and a stage backed with wine barrels tick the
traditional theme boxes at this all-singing-all-dancing joint.
Dishing up traditional Mediterranean cuisine since the 80s, Taverna
Klimataria is where to enjoy homemade pies, oven-fresh bread and a
healthy side of live music. Bring your gang and prepare to party
from dusk till dawn with a mixed-age crowd of laid-back
Athenians.