Ethical yet affordable jewellery store Malaspina Trombetta has
two outlets in Palermo: this one, close to the cathedral, on Via
Vittorio Emanuele, and another nestled between designer boutiques
on pedestrianised Via Principe di Belmonte. The independent
jewellery brand works with coral conservation charities to source
second-hand coral and support regrowth initiatives. All of its
jewellery is made either in Sicily or elsewhere in Italy.

No trip to Sicily’s artisanal capital would be complete without
bringing home a souvenir of brightly patterned ceramics, one of
Palermo’s most famous exports. If the red-lipped testa di moro
ceramic heads are too much to cram into your suitcase, opt for a
classic bowl or serving platter. With their hand-painted citrus
fruit and vibrant floral prints, they’ll take your tablescaping up
to Laura Jackson-levels. You’ll find ceramic stores throughout the
city, but Tre Erre Ceramiche is a family-run business stocking the
best quality at reasonable prices.

A woven Dolce & Gabbana coffa bag jangling with pompoms will
set you back upwards of £2,500, which makes the customised versions
at Vito Torretta seem a downright bargain at £66. What’s more, it’s
quite possible D&G were actually inspired by this historic
outlet on Via Aragona, or at least shops just like it. Don’t be
perturbed by the uninviting shopfront (it looks like a hardware
store). Step inside and choose your bag size, select your pompoms,
frills and charms, then come back to collect your bespoke bag the
following day.

Retired accountant Pietro Tramonte’s eccentric
bookshop-come-library is a must-visit while in Palermo. A warren of
streets lined with approximately 50,000 books, it is one of the
largest outdoor bookstores in the world. New titles are constantly
being donated, and some real treasures can be picked up or
exchanged through a barter system if you’re willing to rifle.
You’ll often find Pietro himself sitting there, jovial and
bespectacled, leafing through a dusty copy of something or
other.