A stone's throw away from St Moritz, Suvretta House Hotel is a revamped 20s hotel overlooking the Engadine Valley. It's a must for lovers of outdoor pursuits, fine Alpine dining and understated elegance.
With the slew of on-trend, uber-cool, micro-boutique hotels, it is refreshing to stay in a place that's grand, spacious, serene and doesn't feel like it has got something to prove. In the Engadine Valley, 1,850m above sea level and a stone's throw from the bustle and bling of St Moritz, the historic Suvretta House Hotel serves as a year-round breath of fresh mountain air. As if coaxing guests outside, nature pours in through each of the enormous windows of this Swiss hotel.
Through the panes, lakes and valleys are prime territory for outdoor pursuits, be it kite-surfing, fishing, paragliding, trekking, skiing or more. Inside, Suvretta offers all the warmth and glamour you'd expect from an Alpine retreat. After days exploring the mountains, be welcomed back with a drink or two at Anton's bar and dine in style at Le Grand restaurant before retreating to your spacious, peaceful room.
The majority of the 171 rooms and 10 suites face the sun-drenched valley of Engadine. Suvretta has been through several renovations since it was built in 1912, the most recent being in 2017 when British designer Sue Freeman updated the space with an elegant palette, bespoke furniture and luxurious fabrics. Ask for one of the eaved rooms on upper floors.
What's for breakfast?
Breakfast here has to be ranked as one of the main features of your stay. Unless incapacitated by your sporting exertions, there can be little reason not to make it to the bright breakfast room Salon Venise. Indulge in an Italo-Swiss smorgasbord of delights, or order à la carte. Don't miss out on the soft-boiled egg in a martini glass with mascarpone, spinach and shaved truffle.
How about lunch and dinner?
Take lunch on the Sun Terrace or head to one of Suvretta's two off-site restaurants - they're the best local spots for lunch. Try Trutz for its casual lodge atmosphere overlooking Upper Engadine lake, or Chasellas for classic lunchtime staples. Alternatively, ask the hotel to prepare a picnic and tuck in while gazing over a dreamy vista after a steep climb. Come evening, many guests choose to stay in the hotel for dinner, so good is the selection of food on offer. Dine on cheese-led Swiss dishes at the easygoing Suvretta Stube, where young chef Isaac Briceño Obando adds a Costa Rican twist to classic recipes. Alternatively, don your finest and head to the Grand Restaurant for chef Fabrizio Zanetti's acclaimed French fare. For a more relaxed evening, take the five-minute walk to Chasellas for a modern take on Alpine cuisine. There's also a Teddy Club restaurant dedicated to children.
Is there a bar?
Wrap up your day with live jazz music at the 20s-style Anton's Bar - named after the founder of Suvretta House Hotel - where around 40 gins are on offer alongside digestifs, cocktails and cigars. Pick up a drink in the Club or Lobby bars and you can enjoy your tipple just about anywhere in the hotel - whether that be on the terrace, by the outdoor pool or as you learn curling. Make a point of trying the hotel's signature "6-o'clocker" cocktail, a heady mix of vodka, vermouth, cassis liqueur and premium champagne.
There's no shortage of entertainment here: guests can busy themselves on tennis courts, in the pool, the outdoor jacuzzi, at the gym or in the spa. There is also a video games room, private curling lanes and dedicated play areas for children. Lovers of the slopes will be pleased to find an in-house ski room, a ski shop, and Suvretta Snowsports School - the best of its kind in the valley.
Things you should know.
A complimentary vintage bus service runs between the hotel and St Moritz, departing every 30 minutes.
Within a short walk you will find…
… a wonderful world of outdoor pursuits - especially during winter. The hotel offers ski-in and ski out, and nearby you can sledge or find the start of endless hiking trails. St Moritz can be reached within a brisk 20-minute walk.
Alessandro Tomé is a contributing editor at Spear's Magazine