It’s

It’s
dangerously easy to fall in love with Zurich. Some travellers are romanced by the medieval
architecture and soaring church spires of the Old Town, a ravishing
cityscape that captivated notable residents as varied as James
Joyce and Tina Turner. Others are seduced by the high-octane energy
of this cultural hub, where grungy post-industrial creative
districts like Zürich-West coexist comfortably with high-concept
architecture housing priceless art collections, such as the
£175-million Kunsthaus Zürich extension. And then there are those
who fall for Zurich’s delightful juxtaposition of refined
sophistication and outdoorsy joie de vivre. It’s not uncommon to
see the glamorous creatives and business leaders who work near
Bahnhofstrasse, Europe’s swishest shopping district, cheerfully
leaping into the lake and river on their lunch breaks, before
devoting their weekends to gung-ho activities such as skiing or
e-biking in the nearby mountains.

Beside the water, left, and a tram in the city centre. |
Photo credit: Kevin Faingnaert

The city’s vibrant start-up scene, co-working spaces and
recently regenerated post-industrial districts are the ultimate
hallmarks of a progressive 21st-century urban centre. But Zurich
has a long and illustrious history as an efficiently run city
that’s also a hotbed of industry and a haven for radical thinkers.
During World War One, philosophers, pacifists and disenchanted
artists gathered in this neutral hub. James Joyce wrote much of
Ulysses in the city, just a few streets away from where Vladimir
Lenin plotted revolution.

Anyone who visits this Swiss destination during one of its
legendary festivals will see the city’s gently rebellious side
alive and kicking. Street Parade, held in the summer, is one of
Europe’s largest parties, where techno music echoes off gothic
church spires and revellers cool down at the countless outdoor
bathing spots known as badis. Arguably more nihilistic is the
Sechseläuten spring festival, culminating with the burning of a
giant snowman effigy called the Böögg, its head stuffed with
explosives.

Somehow, Zurich manages to balance being a big-hitter with
having the soul of a village. It’s spotless, safe and slickly run,
yet has the creative heft and post-industrial grit of Budapest and
Berlin. Travellers here discover it’s possible to have a luxury
city break and gung-ho outdoorsy adventure while staying at the
same urbane hotel. The best of both worlds, in one cosmopolitan
space.

Zurich unpacked: the city address book

Main photo credit: Kevin Faingnaert