The True Colours of Rajasthan

The True Colours of Rajasthan

I walk through
, a street barber shaves his customer’s beard
attentively. No need for a shop, his bag is hung on the wall and
his tools are laid out. The bearded man smiles at me in the
reflection of the misshapen mirror. Later I see a woman clad
top-to-toe in silver jewellery playing a game using chalk and
stones. People gather to watch her play against her opponent.

A chaiwala sells tea to passers-by. I buy a cup for 10 rupees –
it is the sweetest and most delicious tea I have ever tasted. Our
language barrier meant that all we could do was smile at one
another, but that was all we needed. He laughed, then I did, then
he laughed harder.

I walk towards the infamous ghats of Varanasi.
A sadhu – a holy man – is reclining peacefully on the banks of the
Ganges, the most sacred river for Hindus, his body smeared with

@sophalicemerrell |

So vast is India, and so uniquely resilient and deeply rooted are her intertwined social and religious institutions, that all foreign intruders are sooner or later either shaken off or absorbed.

William Dalrymple in White Mughals

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Everything You Need to Know About Rajasthan