Nicknamed the “village of love”, Vico del Gargano is often
touted as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Yet, despite
this affectionate moniker, it still flies relatively under the
radar. Its warren of narrow alleys is framed by cobbled houses
sporting swoon-worthy balconies while, outside the historic old
town, you’ll find rich hot springs and miles of citrus groves.
Forget Amalfi limoncello, it’s here that you’ll find palm-sized,
canary-yellow lemons that are sweet enough to bite into. Lovestruck
couples (or those seeking their own Eat, Pray, Love moment) will
want to stop by the “vicolo del bacio”, a passageway so narrow that
starstruck lovers would detour via the alley so that they were
forced to touch as they squeezed past each other. Romeo and Juliet
would have been thrilled.

Stay: Donna Elena

Journey along Gargano’s wild emerald coast dotted with
undisturbed bays to discover Grotta Sfondata. Accessible only by
boat, the two caves (Grotta Sfondata Piccola and Grotta Sfondata
Grande) are separated by a small passage of glittery waters.
Photographers would be wise to book a boat trip here, the crack in
the natural ceiling – from which it draws its name, meaning “broken
down cave” – allows sunlight to flood through and bounce off the
water’s surface creating a hypnotic, kaleidoscope of colours. Pass
beneath a rocky arch to discover the Grande (just less than three
kilometres along from the first cave) to reach a small, secluded
beach behind the bay. Chances are you’ll have the sandy swathe all
to yourself.

Stay: La Banchina

A few steps from the crowded beaches of Otranto, you’ll find
Baia del Mulino d’Acqua, a peaceful sandy stretch hewn into the
side of a cliff – its name references a historic mill that once
stood here. Today it’s a beach where numerous swimmable caves open
up across the water. We recommend making a beeline for the southern
stretch, where a watery passage makes it easy to swim between a
trio of caves: the Grotta dell’Eremita, Scoglio di Sapunerò and
Grotta della Monaca.

Stay: Masseria Muntibianchi AgriResort

Ok, so Porto Selvaggio might not fall into the “hidden gem”
category with its legion of in-the-know Italian fans, but you
certainly won’t be wrestling with your neighbour’s parasol like on
Spiaggia di Pescoluse, either – especially since Porto Selvaggio is
home to 432 hectares of protected pine-backed coastline. Pack and
picnic and head to the centre of the nature park where you’ll find
a pebble beach bordered by low cliffs. It’s a great place to seek
respite from Puglia’s sweltering summers as the beach is serviced
by a current of cold water that gushes into the bay.

Stay: Relais Il Mignano

Salento is not only synonymous with paradisical beaches and
postcard-perfect villages. Look beyond the bleach-white bays and
whitewashed towns to seek out the River Chidro. Few people know to
swap sea for stream, but here you can bathe in the cooling waters
before following the river bank that’ll eventually lead you all the
way to the sea. Wild swimming here in the morning is a great way to
start your day.

Stay: Gyaaim

Well worth a stop is the town of Locorotondo, the jewel of the
Murgia dei Trulli region. It’s located on a hilltop, so you’ll need
to climb to the top for views across patches of Mediterranean
forest, vineyards, olive groves and clusters of trulli. Take time
to explore the wine route of the Itria Valley that passes through
here; Locorotondo DOC is one of the most spectacular wines in
Puglia and is produced in the surrounding vineyards. Switch out
your standard Aperol for a glass of this – the fruity aroma works
well as an accompaniment to fish and vegetable dishes.

Stay: Leonardo Trulli Resort

Eschew the Castro Marina in favour of visiting Porto Vecchio.
Unlike its neighbour, now serviced by mammoth international cruise
liners, this tiny port is still used by rowing boats, pedalos
(which you can hire) and the odd canoeist. It was once a thriving
fishing port filled with gozzo, a traditional boat – venture
farther along the port and you’ll be able to admire a few of these
handsome old vessels, which have been lovingly repaired, painted
and adorned with fishing nets.

Stay: Villa Infinity

More of an en-route stop than a full-day trip – ideal if you’re
travelling from Lecce to Otranto – Cava di Bauxite was an
extraction site for the bauxite mineral until the mid-70s. After
being abandoned, the site filled with water leaving behind a San
Pelligrino-bottle-coloured lake encircled by fiery red terrain that
gives it a Martian-like feel. As inviting as the lake is, sadly
it’s not suitable for swimming. Instead, time your trip to arrive
just before sunset when the light that skips along the ochre edge
creates a mesmerising show.

Stay: Don Totu

Not far from the seaside towns of Castro and Santa Cesarea Terme
is a cove that’s commonly referred to as the “pearl of Salento”.
Such a beguiling spot would often attract hordes of holidaymakers
but remains relatively undisturbed thanks to the army of sea
urchins that rule the waters. Instead, it makes the ideal spot for
an afternoon siesta or a sundowner as the daylight disappears. Pop
into the bistro opposite to sample the local delicacies. Fancy a
dip? Scoot along to Porto Miggiano (about 10 minutes’ drive). In
this tiny, crescent-shaped bay, flat rocks are ideal for lounging
while waters are clear and urchin-free.

Stay: Hotel Palazzo Papaleo