03 August, 2018
Aman
is one of the few hotel groups that frequent guests get
fiercely competitive about, agitatedly asking one another: “How
many have you stayed at?” before rushing off to book another stay
at what is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for most. Such is the
draw of this very unique anti-chain, that prides itself on meticulous
design to ensure that every property blends seamlessly into its
surroundings, either by beautifully repurposing what is already
there or curating something so quietly brilliant that it disturbs
neither landscape nor local community.
It’s no different at Amanruya, their sprawling Turkish offering located
just a 15-minute drive from the lively beach town of Bodrum (though
it couldn’t be further away in kind). Fanning along the coast in
the blueprint of an ancient village, stone-paved paths,
biscuit-hued villas, cool Antalya marble and leafy olive groves
make it feel like a relic in itself – and one that we were more
than happy to spend a few days revering. From the spiral-staircase
threaded watchtower-cum-library down to the quiet pebble beach (via
a glassy 50-metre infinity pool) a warm Aegean breeze engulfs the
property, carrying with it hushed whispers of heady Turkish
delights that stay with you long after your departure.
Reminiscent of a Roman emperor’s palatial abode, each of the 36
private “pavilions” is surrounded by a pretty garden in which
tinkling water features, herbaceous beds, shady terraces and
sumptuous loungers gather around a (sizeable) pool. Defining the
overused adage “an oasis of calm”, step into cool rooms carved
almost entirely from white marble softly flecked with grey. This
includes the floor – you’ll want to be barefoot throughout your
stay – and the only thing that prevented us from lying on its cold
hardness like some sort of sacrificial animal was the four-poster
bed draped in fluttering linen. Freestanding bathtubs, rain
showers, a double sink and top-of-the-range bath products go
without saying, while the temptation to nick the impossibly soft
bathrobe nearly proved too much.
This is Aman, no request is too small. Though it’d be
short-sighted to miss out on a Turkish breakfast or “kashkaval”, a
medley of small plates including salty local cheeses, olives, eggs,
fresh bread – look out for a sesame-seed scattered doughy circle
known as “simit” – and homemade preserves. Don’t miss the honeycomb
made on-site, while gulps of strong, black Turkish tea make for a
welcome change to your usual flat white.
There are four eating spaces throughout Amanruya – to call them
“restaurants” seems a disservice – each with a focus on locally
grown, organic produce; seafood is plucked straight from the Aegean
while olive oil is pressed in nearby villages. Lunch should be
taken at the beach club in the form of a mezze of octopus,
dolmades, hummus and baba ganoush, while the gazpacho is simply
divine. Come dinner, sit on low seats for a traditional Turkish
affair, go fine-dining under the stars or get plates sent to your
villa.
Several – though not of the loud, pumping variety. This is a
place to order a G&T then stroll through the fragrant gardens
sipping it as you go.
Fitness and yoga studios, tennis court, spa, beach club (Aman
rather than Ibiza
style) offering a selection of non-motorised watersports.
It doesn’t get better than this.
You’ll have to walk a while to leave the property, but ask the
management to arrange a trip to the nearby village of Etrim, where
residents make a living weaving beautiful Turkish carpets (at a
fraction of the price you’ll find elsewhere). Unlike many touristy
excursions, you won’t see a tour bus, selfie stick or tourist – it
feels like a genuine snapshot of traditional Turkish life.