Casa Mãe, Lagos, Portugal

Casa Mãe, Lagos, Portugal

an ever-growing whisper among Lisbonites that an
ultra-hip design hotel on Portugal‘s south coast is the
escape-the-city bolthole to know. White-washed walls, linen
deckchairs playfully painted with abstract nudes and swaying palms
present an oasis from the moment you step off the sun-baked street
outside. This abandoned 19th-century estate-turned-boutique-outpost
gives Lagos – an ancient coastal town with a boho surf scene – a
serious dose of cool.

Bridging the gap between inclusivity and exclusivity, the
swimming pool is guests-only but linen-clad locals are known (and
welcome) to pop in for their morning coffee and papers, listen to
live reggae or join for the nightly BBQs. In the winter months, the
hotel runs “Share and Stay” creative residencies focusing on
scriptwriting, painting, photography, life coaching,
entrepreneurship and more. Kicking back listening to the hotel’s
signature soundtrack – a relaxing mix of Manu Chao, Sébastian
Tellier and Banda Do Mar – you could be at your most-modish
friend’s holiday home.


There are 30 rooms to choose from at Casa Mãe, spread over three
buildings. Classicists will enjoy suites in the renovated estate
house – overlooking the pool and vegetable garden – decorated in a
refined, vintage style. For more privacy, choose from one of three
beachy-feel cabanas on-site, each with their own patio. The main
building features stylistically pared-back rooms (read: cosy
minimalism) all of which come with a private balcony and a
supersized hammock to laze the day away in. Rooms are TV-free (a
testament to slow seaside living) and most come with a
free-standing bath. We love the embroidered cotton-waffle robes and
organic shower gel – so much so in fact, the on-site concept store
was visited more than once over the course of our stay.

What’s for breakfast?

Forget breakfast buffets, in keeping with Casa Mãe’s zero
food-waste policy, everything is made-to-order. In fact if you go
for a walk during breakfast you might see a member of staff picking
the greens you just ordered. Options range from an Algarvian
smoothie bowl or overnight oats to the more indulgent sweet board
(complete with mini pasteis de nata). Fresh juices, smoothies and
seriously good coffee means breakfast can easily last an hour or

How about lunch and dinner?

Petiscos (small bites) and salads are served in the restaurant
or by the pool for lunch – think linguine con vongole, roasted
cauliflower, ceviche and Algarvian nicoise. Outdoor wood ovens and
charcoal grills are fired up for dinner – you won’t go wrong with
the seared tuna, dry-aged ribeye or braised octopus.

Is there a bar?

Yes – the natural wines come from some of the country’s
most-loved wine regions including the Douro Valley, Barriada, Minho
and Alentejo. Try a glass (or bottle) of Vinho Verde, Portugal‘s famous lightly sparkling
green wine. Cocktails range from the classics, Daiquiri, Margarita
and Old Fashioned, to the inventive, Pisco Green (with green tea)
and the Algarvian Caipi (rum, figs, lime).


In line with the hotel’s ode to slow living, resort-style
facilities start and stop with the swimming pool. However, there’s
a small studio for yoga classes and staff can organise on-site
massages, facials and reflexology on request. Farther-flung
excursions include surf lessons and a “Sail, Fish, Grill” cooking
workshop. Still, the star of the show has to be the hotel’s concept
store, which prides itself on stocking some of the country’s
coolest fashion, footwear and homewares. You’d be forgiven for
walking away with anything from a hand-woven wall hanging to a new

Things you should know

Lagos can get pretty touristy in the summer months, bustling
with families and partygoers in equal measure. For a more tranquil
trip, consider avoiding peak season and look into the hotel’s
“Winter Residencies” offering freelancers and creative community a
minimum 20 night stay at €80 per night (including breakfast).

Within a short walk you can find…

Bars, shops, restaurants and historical landmarks are all a few
minutes walk away. The main beach, Meia Praia, is a 4km sandy
stretch to the east, complete with sunbed rentals and cafés. To the
west, the undulating coastline the Algarve is famous for offers up
a series of secret bays and rocky coves (just be prepared for some
steep cliffside steps to get down there).