This article appears in SUITCASE
Volume 18: The Rhythm Issue

Just off a red-dirt road between the rural fishing villages of
Dzita and Dzita-Abledomi, an idyllic
eco-retreat sits on the edge of a still saltwater lagoon. Life
here centres around a vibrant beach bar, complete with a jetty that
juts out into the lagoon. Straw parasols shade wooden armchairs
from the sun, while bright African prints and local artwork bring
the place to life.

The lodge was the brainchild of a man called Dougal Croudace,
who came to Ghana from the UK during his gap year and never looked
back. Go ahead and roll your eyes, but this not-for-profit lodge
has put down solid roots in the community. Your stay directly
supports a NGO called Dream Big Ghana, which provides sanitation
and healthcare facilities in the surrounding village.

Who you’ll find

Backpackers, volunteers and adventurous expats. Friends of
friends of friends.

Rooms

The lodge has a selection of dormitories and standard rooms, but
with the chief suites priced at just over £20 a night, why not
“splash out”? The thatched-roof bungalows sit on the edge of the
lagoon and are decked out with bold, black-and-red patterns. While
the word “eco” is often a euphemism for basic accommodation, here
real attention to detail has been paid to the mosquito nets,
compost toilets and outdoor showers.

Food and drink

While travellers rejoice at chef Rita’s delicious traditional
offerings – think hearty chicken and groundnut soup served with
kenkey (a sour dumpling made from corn, which you’re meant to dip
into sauces with your hands) – expats breathe a sigh of relief at
the sight of a menu that also offers pizza, Thai green curry and
delicious salads. A man called Papa staffs the bar, and makes
refreshing cucumber cocktails.

What do in the area

Meet Me There is right in the middle of two rural communities,
and the idea is to get out as much you can – that might mean
watching local fishermen pull in their nets, taking a trip to a
lively market or even attending a funeral. (In Ghana, funerals are
larger-than-life celebrations.) For an unforgettable day out, join
a local guide called Bright for a boat trip along the Ada coast and
estuary, where the sea merges with the River Volta. You’ll stop at
remote villages on the way, where women scale freshly caught fish
and men tend to the intricately carved wooden boats. Hung with
multi-coloured hammocks and with dancehall music blaring, Maranatha
Beach Camp is a good option for a lunch of red-red stew.

Things to know

Meet Me There only accepts cash, and there are no ATMS near the
lodge, so withdraw money well in advance. Note that the dormitories
and standard rooms are roadside, which means cars, chickens and
chatter galore.

How to get there

For the equivalent of around £5, buy a tro-tro (minibus) ticket
from Accra to Keta. Start your adventure into the heart of rural
Ghana, flying down open roads with a highlife music soundtrack. Try
to bag a window seat for some ventilation – there’s no air-con, and
passengers carry everything from sweet-smelling coconut to pungent
dried fish. Journeys are either uneventful and straightforward or
laced with unexpected pit-stops, route changes and even the odd
disagreement. The tro-tro driver will drop you at a taxi rank at
Keta so you can catch a ten-minute cab to Meet Me There. Rooms
from £15