Kingdom In the Clouds: Discover Asturias’ Dreamiest Historic Sites

Asturias is a lush, sea-sprayed corner of northern Spain, where ancient churches cling to misty hillsides and golden crosses glint in candlelit chambers. These seven pre-Romanesque wonders will have you reaching for your hiking boots

May 1, 2001

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Words By SUITCASE Magazine
In Asturias, history lingers. This rugged corner of northern of Spain, just a two-hour flight from London, is where the wild Cantabrian Sea crashes against dramatic cliffs, and the Picos de Europa mountains keep watch over lush, misty valleys – and where some of Europe’s earliest medieval masterpieces sit cheek-by-jowl with inviting cider houses and palatial guesthouses. The Kingdom of Asturias, which existed between the eighth and 10th centuries, left an immense artistic legacy of Pre-Romanesque treasures. Think hillside palaces, fresco-clad churches and stonework so detailed it feels almost otherworldly. This year, Asturias celebrates 40 years since UNESCO declared its “Monuments of Oviedo and the Kingdom of Asturias” a World Heritage Site – a perfect moment to explore this extraordinary chapter of European history. Here’s our hotlist of the most beautiful pre-Romanesque sights in Asturias to seek out, including pointers on where to snack, stroll and sleep nearby.
Santa María del Naranco | Credit: Juan de Tury, Turismo Asturias

Santa María del Naranco

With the appearance more of a noble’s country home than a church, Santa María del Naranco sits proudly on the green slopes of Mount Naranco, its balcony overlooking the city of Oviedo/Oviéu. Built in 848 as a royal retreat for King Ramiro I, this graceful, airy building catches the changing light beautifully – perfect for golden-hour photos. A gentle walk downhill leads you into Oviedo/Uviéu’s old town, where cider bars jostle for space in leafy plazas and boutique hotels nestle inside centuries-old palacios. Spend an afternoon browsing artisanal leather shops and traditional confiterías (sweet shops), or seek out the brightly painted El Fontán Market. This 18th-century arcade buzzes with traders selling local produce and flowers, and, three days a week, a flea market pops up in the square outside – perfect for finding a few pre-Romanesque-inspired treasures to take home.
Iglesia de San Miguel de Lillo | Credit: Juan de Tury, Turismo Asturias

Iglesia de San Miguel de Lillo

Located a mere few metres from Santa María del Naranco on Mount Naranco, San Miguel de Lillo has a quirkier, more intimate feel than that of its grande dame sister. While originally larger than Santa María del Naranco, only part of this ninth-century church remains – but what survives is packed with awe-inspiring detail: note the delicate windows and intricate stone carvings depicting acrobats and lions. Step outside to enjoy sweeping views of Oviedo/Uviéu below. Peckish? Take a seat at a terrace café in town to sample the local speciality of almond cream-filled carbayones pastries and watch booted-up pilgrims setting out from the city's cathedral on their long walk to Santiago de Compostela. The city marks the starting point of the historic Camino Primitivo route.
Santa Maria de Bendones | Credit: Juan de Tury, Turismo Asturias

Santa María de Bendones

Hidden among oak woods and wildflowers near Oviedo/Uviéu, Santa María de Bendones was constructed in the ninth century, its sturdy stone walls and simple layout hinting at its monastic past. Unlike the more famous Naranco sites, this one feels pleasingly off-grid – perfect for a peaceful morning exploring the region’s verdant hills. Afterwards, head back to the city and stroll the leafy streets in search of cider houses – the beating heart of Asturian life and, alongside wider Asturias cider culture, recently recognised by UNESCO in 2024 as part of the world’s Intangible Cultural Heritage.
El Conventín | Credit: Juan de Tury, Turismo Asturias

San Salvador de Valdediós - El Conventín

In a sun-dappled valley hugged by the winding Valdediós River, this tiny, honey-hued ninth-century church is a textbook example of Asturian pre-Romanesque charm, boasting horseshoe arches and delicate stone carvings that are still intact after more than 1,000 years. Nicknamed El Conventín, the edifice’s simple facade belies its interiors: though faded with age, the once-dazzling outlines of colourful murals are still visible on the walls. After soaking up the serenity, head over to nearby Villaviciosa, one of the cider capitals of the region, where streets are dotted with sidrerías (cider houses) and family-run restaurants. Fancy a sleepover? Look for guesthouses set inside grand old mansions, known as casas de indianos. Built by wealthy merchant families who’d made their fortunes in the Americas, these wedding cake-esque stays come in all shades of pastel, and often feature ornamental gardens and elaborate architecture.
Iglesia de Santa Cristina de Lena | Credit: Les Fartures, Turismo Asturias

Iglesia de Santa Cristina de Lena

Drive south into the hills that backdrop Oviedo/Uviéu and you’ll find Santa Cristina de Lena, a petite church sat on a lush knoll offering panoramic views of the Las Ubiñas-La Mesa Unesco Biosphere Reserve, a rugged, mountainous landscape home to brown bears, wild cats and ibex. Asturias is the last refuge for bears in western Europe, and home to approximately 300.The church’s unusual Greek-cross layout and elaborately carved iconostasis – a stone screen separating clergy and congregation – make it a standout. After your cultural hit, take time to explore the hiking trails nearby, including the Senda del Oso (Bear’s Path), or hop down to nearby Mieres, a lively town where rustic taverns dish up hearty fabada asturiana (bean stew) and extend a warm Asturian welcome.
San Julián de los Prados | Credit: Juan de Tury, Turismo Asturias

Iglesia de San Julián de los Prados

Guarding the entrance to Oviedo/Uviéu is San Julián de los Prados. Step inside and you’ll be stepping back into a technicolour, ninth-century world. The church’s vast walls are still splashed with compelling frescoes in complex geometric patterns – rare artistic survivors from another era. After admiring the art, you’re perfectly placed to dive into Oviedo/Uviéu's buzzing café scene, or browse the independent shops in the cobbled lanes nearby.
Catedral de El Salvador | Credit: Juan de Tury, Turismo Asturias

Catedral de El Salvador - Holy Chamber

No trip to Asturias would be complete without a visit to Oviedo/Uviéu's grand gothic cathedral, but the real wonders are hidden inside the Cámara Santa. This tiny ninth-century chapel guards two glittering relics: the Cross of the Angels and the Victory Cross, icons of Asturian identity. Also inside? The Agate Box, a dazzling example of early medieval goldsmithing. After your treasure hunt, get lost in the city's medieval streets, where cafés spill out onto stone squares and stylish hotels, many housed in centuries-old buildings, offer a luxurious end to your cultural ramble. Nearby, you’ll find the city’s “Cider Boulevard”: a concentration of cider houses where you can experience traditional cider pouring (from a height) and sample the region’s apple eau de vie – a complex, Calvados-like spirit. If you’re in town on 5 June, be sure to catch the Preba de la Sidra, a festival marking the beginning of the cider season, and the opening of many of Asturias’ street-side bars and terraces.

The Lowdown

Ready to step into Asturias’ storied past? Plot your adventure at turismoasturias.es