Most visitors don’t think of Rome as a vegetarian city. Yet vegetables have always had a place in its traditional recipes, and that legacy is now being rediscovered. When chef Valentina Fois returned to her hometown after spending more than a decade in London running East End café Lele’s, she was determined to serve inventive, flavourful vegetarian food to Romans
“People see Rome as a very big city, very cosmopolitan – and in a way it is – but it’s also a small village with many paradoxes and contradictions,” she says. “When I was growing up in the city, the only thing you could eat was traditional Italian food. Foreign restaurants were incredibly hard to find, and often very Italianised. Chinese food was the most exotic thing available.”
“People see Rome as a very big city, very cosmopolitan – and in a way it is – but it’s also a small village with many paradoxes and contradictions,” she says. “When I was growing up in the city, the only thing you could eat was traditional Italian food. Foreign restaurants were incredibly hard to find, and often very Italianised. Chinese food was the most exotic thing available.”
The streets of Rome, left and Valentina Fois
Times have changed. “You can find everything in Rome now. What remains more challenging is eating a plant-based diet,” Fois notes.
“My grandma and mum are both good cooks, so I grew up spending lots of time in the kitchen with them,” she explains. “I was a meat-eater then. One of the dishes I miss the most is my grandma’s cappelletti [pasta filled with meat, similar to tortellini] and, of course, a thin slice of mortadella, fresh from the cut.”
“Although I miss the nostalgic taste of some traditional dishes, when cooking for myself or others, I don’t obsess over trying to replicate them. Cacio e pepe and carbonara are easy to recreate with plant-based ingredients, but other dishes are nearly impossible. Those dishes work well because they are made with specific ingredients, and if you remove those, the magic is gone. But you can make new magic, create your own tasty dishes and new food memories without having to use animal products.”
Fois brought a taste of the British capital back to Rome with her. “I brought Lele’s brunch to Bauhaus – a wonderful gem in the heart of Garbatella. We serve a London-style brunch every Sunday there.”
Times have changed. “You can find everything in Rome now. What remains more challenging is eating a plant-based diet,” Fois notes.
“My grandma and mum are both good cooks, so I grew up spending lots of time in the kitchen with them,” she explains. “I was a meat-eater then. One of the dishes I miss the most is my grandma’s cappelletti [pasta filled with meat, similar to tortellini] and, of course, a thin slice of mortadella, fresh from the cut.”
“Although I miss the nostalgic taste of some traditional dishes, when cooking for myself or others, I don’t obsess over trying to replicate them. Cacio e pepe and carbonara are easy to recreate with plant-based ingredients, but other dishes are nearly impossible. Those dishes work well because they are made with specific ingredients, and if you remove those, the magic is gone. But you can make new magic, create your own tasty dishes and new food memories without having to use animal products.”
Fois brought a taste of the British capital back to Rome with her. “I brought Lele’s brunch to Bauhaus – a wonderful gem in the heart of Garbatella. We serve a London-style brunch every Sunday there.”
Fois also bakes cakes to serve at Rome’s Bauhaus
She acknowledges that Rome still lags behind other European capitals when it comes to catering for vegetarians: “There are some lovely spots, but we’re still far behind cities like London, Paris and Berlin for plant-based options.” That doesn’t mean there are no good options for vegetarians out there, though – you just need to know where to look. “I tend to find omnivore places that have very good plant-based options, and it’s often a better experience overall, since it’s slim pickings when it comes to fully plant-based spots,” she says.
With her pick of eight spots good for vegetarians in Rome, Fois proves that the city’s plant-based scene is more than worthy of a full day’s grazing.
She acknowledges that Rome still lags behind other European capitals when it comes to catering for vegetarians: “There are some lovely spots, but we’re still far behind cities like London, Paris and Berlin for plant-based options.” That doesn’t mean there are no good options for vegetarians out there, though – you just need to know where to look. “I tend to find omnivore places that have very good plant-based options, and it’s often a better experience overall, since it’s slim pickings when it comes to fully plant-based spots,” she says.
With her pick of eight spots good for vegetarians in Rome, Fois proves that the city’s plant-based scene is more than worthy of a full day’s grazing.
Checco Er Carrettiere, Trastevere
A Trastevere institution, this historic restaurant and bar is worth visiting for one thing alone: a real Italian coffee – strong, short, and served directly on the counter. Fois, however, recommends lingering. “I stop at the bar every morning before work; it’s the perfect way to start the day,” she says. When time allows, she orders the mozzarella and tomato tramezzino, an Italian sandwich, alongside pizzette, Rome’s take on pizzas, distinct from their Neapolitan cousins. “For a pre-dinner treat, pair the pizzette with a crodino [an Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo], and don’t miss the Mont Blanc dessert.”checcoercarettiere.it
Grani Farine & Caffè, Monteverde
Fois admits she has a sweet tooth and is always on the hunt for the best version of every dessert she loves. “Grani Farine & Caffè makes some incredible pastries, but I come here for their ciambella [a ring-shaped cake] – it’s the best I’ve tried so far in Rome,” she says. The café also serves inventive vegetarian dishes at lunch, from beetroot kebabs in fluffy homemade pitta to roasted miso aubergine, soft focaccia with fresh tomatoes, and salads that showcase seasonal ingredients. It’s small and weekends get busy, so get there early.granifarinecaffe.it
According to Fois, you can find “everything” food-wise in Rome today – even plant-based dining
instagram.com/ciaparat_enoteca
Ciaparat Enoteca, Appio Latino
A wine bar first, Ciaparat Enoteca doubles as a haven for vegetarians. “Most of the menu is usually plant-based, so vegetarians and vegans are never disappointed,” Fois says. “Their food is so delicious that it’s the perfect spot for a night of enjoying sharing plates and a few glasses of crisp white.” The menu changes with the seasons, but Fois says “always order the houmous”. Cosy and intimate, the space has just 26 seats inside and a few outdoor tables for the warmer months, so booking is recommended.instagram.com/ciaparat_enoteca
Forno Conti & Co., Esquilino
“I’m Italian after all, so bread is very important to me – and honestly, I don’t have the time to make my own,” Fois admits. Forno Conti & Co. is the chef’s go-to for sourdough, pizza and focaccia, plus everything from breakfast pastries to Roman maritozzi, cream buns, all of outstanding quality. On the savoury side, the bakery offers a variety of veggie options, including vegetable-filled toasties with homemade sauces – the courgette-and-cheese version is a particular favourite of Fois’. Much of the bakery’s repertoire is crafted with the help of freelance chef Cristian Marcellini, whose creations Fois describes as “incredible”, predicting that he’s destined for great things.hfornoconti.co
A tomato, basil and yellow melon salad at natural wine bar, Ruvido
ruvidoroma.com
Ruvido, Appio Latino
“For a glass of wine and small plates, Ruvido is the perfect spot,” Fois says. She heads to the Appio Latino joint to enjoy an aperitivo in advance of a night out on the town. The bar specialises in natural wines you can sip there or take home. The food is of restaurant-level quality, with vegetarian options that are always inventive and flavourful – think mushrooms with chestnuts and stracciatella cheese, bean cream with hazelnuts, lam tartare on beef ossobuco and spicy gazpacho. Ruvido lists all its suppliers on its website, too. “It’s a nice touch,” Fois says.ruvidoroma.com
La Mescita, Garbatella
“As you might have gathered, I love a glass of wine,” Fois says. La Mescita is a relaxed, informal spot opposite the Teatro Palladium, with an impressive selection of natural wines on the menu. The food is equally noteworthy, according to Fois, with a menu that shifts from tacos and roasted vegetables to risotto and tramezzini. “Bruschetta is a must for the aperitivo, even if it’s the simplest thing on the menu,” Fois says. “I still have to figure out how they make tomatoes on toasted bread taste so good.instagram.com/enotecalamescita
