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14 November, 2018
Sprawled between the areas of Kerobokan and Echo beach in Bali is the neighbourhood of Canggu. This fishing village has been popular with the surf crowd since the 1970s with big wave breaks, roadside warungs (local, family-owned eateries) and iconic institutions like beachside beer garden-Old Man's and cult motorbike shop-Deux Ex Machina luring repeat visitors.
"Looking back 10 years, it's hard to describe Canggu as anything other than a tranquil, coastal village," says George Garrow, owner of The Slow hotel which is based there. "The roads were quiet, there were just a few spots to eat or get a massage, and rice fields and free-roaming cows were a more common sight than tourists."
Today, the scene is quite different. With Kuta having turned into a hub for mass-market beach resorts and nearby Seminyak overrun with splashy, selfie-obsessed tourists, Canggu has come into its own. The last five years have seen a slew of modish openings which have attracted the cool crowd and earned the neighbourhood the moniker of the "Williamsburg of Bali". The natural vistas of lush paddy fields and volcanic, black-sand beaches still exist, but now there are juice bars, independent stores and bohemian beach clubs overlooking them.
"There's been development at such a quick pace as tourism moves from Kuta and Seminyak up here to Canggu," says Fiona Bond, owner of Parachute restaurant located in Berawa. "It used to be just a handful of warungs and now there's a café on every corner and a smoothie bowl in reach no matter where you turn."
Despite the rapid growth, the neighbourhood continues to channel a casual, eclectic vibe that attracts creative folk, local and expat families as well as the Canggu hipsters. Here's our pick of green hotels, vegan joints and sustainable boutiques worth checking out before they go mainstream.
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