If you watched Christian Louboutin slither down a giant high-heel-shaped slide into a historic Parisian swimming pool shortly after the French artistic swimming team pirouetted through said pool – waggling their red-soled stilettos above the water during the shoe designer’s crazily camp SS25 fashion show last October – you’ll have a good sense of the legendary French design icon’s outrageous thirst for unbridled joy and extravagant beauty – and know all about his endless fascination with the colour red.
Stepping inside Louboutin’s first foray into the world of hospitality isn’t quite as chaotic, but markers of the designer’s lust for beauty and bold scarlet tones feature heavily in this Portuguese stay. Named Vermelho, meaning – what else? – “red” in Portuguese, the brilliant, story-filled stay is a celebration of all things Louboutin. It shouts loudly about the richness of heritage craftsmanship; it sings with unrestrained joy about the beauty of design; it delights in maximalist magpie-ing.
Stepping inside Louboutin’s first foray into the world of hospitality isn’t quite as chaotic, but markers of the designer’s lust for beauty and bold scarlet tones feature heavily in this Portuguese stay. Named Vermelho, meaning – what else? – “red” in Portuguese, the brilliant, story-filled stay is a celebration of all things Louboutin. It shouts loudly about the richness of heritage craftsmanship; it sings with unrestrained joy about the beauty of design; it delights in maximalist magpie-ing.
Vermelho’s Indian Lounge, and ceramic window surrounds by Giuseppe Ducrot
Louboutin stumbled (literally) upon the unassuming Alentejan town of Melides, just south of Lisbon, after a fall resulted in him being taken to a nearby hospital, and he purchased a private home nearby soon after. Then, he pulled together a star-studded team of craftspeople and creatives to realise his vision for Vermelho.
Don’t be led down the garden path by the hotel’s low-key exterior: the entire edifice, built for purpose, captures the characteristic feel of Melides’ small-town architecture on the outside, but inside, every corner, corridor and cupboard fizzes with kaleidoscopic colour and design detail.
Juxtaposing (but beautifully complementing) influences and inspirations are scattered as material objects throughout the property, many picked up by the designer during his travels. The front gate – a solid, 3m-high wooden portcullis – is a 100-year-old Moroccan artefact that caught Louboutin’s eye when he was travelling there. On entering, you’re immediately standing on a sea of elaborate, geometric tiling produced by Fábrica de Azulejos de Azeitão, a traditional tile producer based in nearby Setúbal. The company churned out more than 15,000 tiles for the Vermelho project, including the glossy, carmine red ones in the hotel bar, their one-of-a-kind pigmentation produced by the factory in collaboration with Louboutin. Then, there’s the elaborately designed window and door surrounds, balcony railings and frescoes peppered across the hotel grounds. These intricate, moulded designs are the work of Italian ceramicist Giuseppe Ducrot, who has spent much of his career creating religious iconography and marble monuments for the red-robed inhabitants of the Vatican.
Louboutin stumbled (literally) upon the unassuming Alentejan town of Melides, just south of Lisbon, after a fall resulted in him being taken to a nearby hospital, and he purchased a private home nearby soon after. Then, he pulled together a star-studded team of craftspeople and creatives to realise his vision for Vermelho.
Don’t be led down the garden path by the hotel’s low-key exterior: the entire edifice, built for purpose, captures the characteristic feel of Melides’ small-town architecture on the outside, but inside, every corner, corridor and cupboard fizzes with kaleidoscopic colour and design detail.
Juxtaposing (but beautifully complementing) influences and inspirations are scattered as material objects throughout the property, many picked up by the designer during his travels. The front gate – a solid, 3m-high wooden portcullis – is a 100-year-old Moroccan artefact that caught Louboutin’s eye when he was travelling there. On entering, you’re immediately standing on a sea of elaborate, geometric tiling produced by Fábrica de Azulejos de Azeitão, a traditional tile producer based in nearby Setúbal. The company churned out more than 15,000 tiles for the Vermelho project, including the glossy, carmine red ones in the hotel bar, their one-of-a-kind pigmentation produced by the factory in collaboration with Louboutin. Then, there’s the elaborately designed window and door surrounds, balcony railings and frescoes peppered across the hotel grounds. These intricate, moulded designs are the work of Italian ceramicist Giuseppe Ducrot, who has spent much of his career creating religious iconography and marble monuments for the red-robed inhabitants of the Vatican.
An upstairs corridor
Head downstairs, where, between chintzy, well-stuffed armchairs, you’ll find the bar, a glittering, embellished series of arches inspired by the gilded floats that delight the devoted during Seville’s Holy Week (and hand-crafted by the very same liturgical goldsmith’s workshop, Villarreal). The silver tassels and red velvet stools nod to the sun-hazed, romantic world projected by the vintage Bollywood posters hanging on walls – and speak to the elaborately painted, if time-worn, cabinet on the other side of the room, a 400-year-old antique made during the Spanish Revolution (to be touched – no, stroked – in awe).
Art is everywhere: a vast, glass-like coral sculpture in the iridescently tiled Indian Lounge; a colourful collection of Elisabeth Lincot’s ceramic birds’ heads in all different sizes on an exterior wall; an elaborate ceiling lamp made by Nicolas Cesbron in an upstairs hallway, illuminating sea urchin shells attached to elongated, curving metal arms. In a number of suites hang confusing, complicated mosaics made from hundreds of individual butterfly wings.
But don’t be mistaken: this is no maximalist sugar rush. Despite the intricate detail, and manic collation of objects d’art from all corners of the globe, Vermelho retains a gentle, restrained feel. Rooms are interesting – filled with at-first-unnoticed details, such as miniature pairs of silver feet serving as doorstops – without being overwhelming. The devil is in the detail – and in the accent colour, of course.
Head downstairs, where, between chintzy, well-stuffed armchairs, you’ll find the bar, a glittering, embellished series of arches inspired by the gilded floats that delight the devoted during Seville’s Holy Week (and hand-crafted by the very same liturgical goldsmith’s workshop, Villarreal). The silver tassels and red velvet stools nod to the sun-hazed, romantic world projected by the vintage Bollywood posters hanging on walls – and speak to the elaborately painted, if time-worn, cabinet on the other side of the room, a 400-year-old antique made during the Spanish Revolution (to be touched – no, stroked – in awe).
Art is everywhere: a vast, glass-like coral sculpture in the iridescently tiled Indian Lounge; a colourful collection of Elisabeth Lincot’s ceramic birds’ heads in all different sizes on an exterior wall; an elaborate ceiling lamp made by Nicolas Cesbron in an upstairs hallway, illuminating sea urchin shells attached to elongated, curving metal arms. In a number of suites hang confusing, complicated mosaics made from hundreds of individual butterfly wings.
But don’t be mistaken: this is no maximalist sugar rush. Despite the intricate detail, and manic collation of objects d’art from all corners of the globe, Vermelho retains a gentle, restrained feel. Rooms are interesting – filled with at-first-unnoticed details, such as miniature pairs of silver feet serving as doorstops – without being overwhelming. The devil is in the detail – and in the accent colour, of course.
A bathroom in one of the Jardim Português suites, and a hotel bedroom
Our favourite room category? The Jardim Português – five ground-floor suites each with its own private terrace leading to Vermelho’s colourful, chaotic gardens. In ours, the breezy, curtain-lined terrace had a real slab of carved marble hung on the wall, transported here by Louboutin from Rome. Step inside the red double French doors and it’s a riot of colour. Ours was accented with blue and red, found in the traditionally tiled headboard (with untraditional tie-dye-style patterns also present), cupboard doors hand-crafted by renowned French rattan specialist Maison Gatti, and joyful terracotta floor tiling interspersed with the odd red-glazed interloper.
Rooms
There are 13 rooms, each with its own delightfully diverse characteristics. Some, such as the Matinha Suite, painted with murals by artist Konstantin Kakanias, have sunset-pink walls adorned with joyful daisy patterns and dramatic, geometric wooden parquet floors; others have monkey-shaped wicker tables and ancient, tulip-red chests of drawers from Louboutin's personal furniture collection. In one Junior Suite (we’re not saying which), guests will discover a beautifully tiled outdoor bathtub on a sun-kissed terrace, despite online photos offering no hint of the secret. Another has a bathtub tucked beneath a dramatic stone arch. All are beautifully tiled and beautifully styled.Our favourite room category? The Jardim Português – five ground-floor suites each with its own private terrace leading to Vermelho’s colourful, chaotic gardens. In ours, the breezy, curtain-lined terrace had a real slab of carved marble hung on the wall, transported here by Louboutin from Rome. Step inside the red double French doors and it’s a riot of colour. Ours was accented with blue and red, found in the traditionally tiled headboard (with untraditional tie-dye-style patterns also present), cupboard doors hand-crafted by renowned French rattan specialist Maison Gatti, and joyful terracotta floor tiling interspersed with the odd red-glazed interloper.
A Junior Suite
Games can be played, counting all shades of red: it’s there in the monogrammed “V” on the crisp-white sheets, and in the scarlet leather covering the shoe horn and hangers in the cupboard, which hang above a V-branded yoga mat and bolster cushion. Room keys are attached to vast leather tassels you can’t lose (and which you won’t want to – they cost £120 to replace) – some with a flash of vermillion within their coal-black plumes.
The highlight in these garden suites, though, are the bathrooms – fully tiled beauties that re-invent the word “supersize”, with plunge pool-like baths and dinner plate-sized shower heads.
Dinner – and wine – service is overseen by mâitre d’hotel João Pereira. Straight-talking and mind-blowingly knowledgeable, he’ll provide suggestions (and rejections) on pairings for your menu. If you can, organise a wine tasting with him; he’ll provide a comprehensive schooling in Portugal’s complex viticulture, with plenty of acerbic wit on the side.
Games can be played, counting all shades of red: it’s there in the monogrammed “V” on the crisp-white sheets, and in the scarlet leather covering the shoe horn and hangers in the cupboard, which hang above a V-branded yoga mat and bolster cushion. Room keys are attached to vast leather tassels you can’t lose (and which you won’t want to – they cost £120 to replace) – some with a flash of vermillion within their coal-black plumes.
The highlight in these garden suites, though, are the bathrooms – fully tiled beauties that re-invent the word “supersize”, with plunge pool-like baths and dinner plate-sized shower heads.
What’s for breakfast?
First decision: where are you having it? In the restaurant, on the patio, or on your own private terrace? We’d suggest the latter if you’re in a Jardim Português suite, and staff will arrive at the agreed-upon hour to transform your private terrace into an al fresco feasting space, complete with fresh pastries (including bite-sized pastéis de nata), cold cuts and cheese, and fresh fruits and eggs as you like them, plus fresh orange juice and strong coffee.Lunch and dinner
Just off the bar, where Bollywood posters are displayed beneath an intricately designed wooden ceiling softly lit to evoke a Portuguese sunset, Xtian is an elegantly unfussy affair. The menu changes seasonally, but plates up the same selection for lunch and dinner. During our visit, light summer flavours were the order of the day: we enjoyed a refreshing gazpacho, tender scallops served over truffled cheese, cuttlefish and razor clams with traditional Melides tomato rice, and an elevated take on piri piri chicken. Desserts are devilishly indulgent: oozing salted caramel fondant, beautifully baked cheesecakes drizzled in local honey, and a light-as-foam coffee mousse cleverly concealed within a crisp chocolate shell.Dinner – and wine – service is overseen by mâitre d’hotel João Pereira. Straight-talking and mind-blowingly knowledgeable, he’ll provide suggestions (and rejections) on pairings for your menu. If you can, organise a wine tasting with him; he’ll provide a comprehensive schooling in Portugal’s complex viticulture, with plenty of acerbic wit on the side.
The hotel gardens, and the bar, with its unique red tiling
In winter, when the French doors are firmly shut against Portugal’s insalubrious Atlantic weather, the hotel hosts talks with local historians around the bar’s dramatically large fireplace.
Is there a bar?
Yes: you could spend an hour in there simply exploring the aesthetics. Cocktail-wise, you’ll find all the classics made beautifully, plus some locally inspired offerings. Ask for something that puts the Moscatel de Setúbal to work – the amber-hued fortified wine is a local delicacy dating back to Roman times.In winter, when the French doors are firmly shut against Portugal’s insalubrious Atlantic weather, the hotel hosts talks with local historians around the bar’s dramatically large fireplace.
Amenities
Step off the curving path that leads to the Jardim Português suites and you’ll find the hotel’s small, sexy pool. Before you head down, pick up the monogrammed jute bag, panama hat and exclusive Loubi’s on the Beach towels from your suite for Louboutin-approved lounging.
The hotel bar
Follow the path further, to the Moroccan-inspired tower perched at the end of the hotel, and you’ll discover the beautiful spa treatment room, with its North Africa-inspired design. Helmed by South African Ayurveda expert Timóteo Carmo from 9am to 8pm daily, the treatment menu is expansive – we recommend asking Carmo to guide your experience, using his holistic training to match the massage to your needs. It’s not a full-sized spa, but be patient: plans for a second, lagoon-side sister hotel, a short drive from Vermelho, are underway, promising easy access to a comprehensive wellness suite for all Louboutin guests.
On Saturdays, the hotel runs complimentary yoga sessions, and those keen to explore the rice fields and lagoon’s edges can jump on the hotel’s bikes for a freewheeling adventure across Alentejo’s sun-kissed landscapes.
Follow the path further, to the Moroccan-inspired tower perched at the end of the hotel, and you’ll discover the beautiful spa treatment room, with its North Africa-inspired design. Helmed by South African Ayurveda expert Timóteo Carmo from 9am to 8pm daily, the treatment menu is expansive – we recommend asking Carmo to guide your experience, using his holistic training to match the massage to your needs. It’s not a full-sized spa, but be patient: plans for a second, lagoon-side sister hotel, a short drive from Vermelho, are underway, promising easy access to a comprehensive wellness suite for all Louboutin guests.
On Saturdays, the hotel runs complimentary yoga sessions, and those keen to explore the rice fields and lagoon’s edges can jump on the hotel’s bikes for a freewheeling adventure across Alentejo’s sun-kissed landscapes.
Giuseppe Ducrot sculptures in the gardens, and a suite’s scarlet doorway
If you’re not staying, you can still stop by for a meal. We spotted a restaurateur from nearby Comporta lingering over an al fresco lunch on the terrace. Beautifully dressed, with tousled locks and a cigarette casually tucked between his fingers, he enjoyed a single glass of red wine with his meal.
What are the hotel’s eco-credentials like?
Everything we’d expect in 2025, including the use of local, seasonal produce in the kitchens – from rice and honey to pine nuts – and refillable amenities in suites.What about accessibility?
There’s one accessible room. An elevator behind reception provides step-free access to the restaurant, bar and gardens. However, there are small level changes between some doors, and the pool is accessed via a sloping, grassy bank. We’d recommend calling before you book, so that staff can advise on any accessibility worries.What’s the crowd like?
Suave, sexy and – for the most part – silver-haired. This is a hotel for those with deep – and well-stitched – pockets.If you’re not staying, you can still stop by for a meal. We spotted a restaurateur from nearby Comporta lingering over an al fresco lunch on the terrace. Beautifully dressed, with tousled locks and a cigarette casually tucked between his fingers, he enjoyed a single glass of red wine with his meal.
Exclusive beach towels by the pool
The well-heeled beach towns of Carvalhal and Comporta are both about a 20-minute drive away, with their sand-dusted restaurants, bars and concept stores. Fans of the rustic, dune-wrapped JNcQUOI seafood spot should check out its smaller, more cosmopolitan restaurant and bar in town – the colourful, esoteric interiors are worth a visit alone, and you’ll spot a familiar face painted on the vases that crowd a shelf running all through the restaurant: Louboutin is one of the “friends of JNcQUOI” celebrated in the art installation.
Within a short walk I can find…
Melides is an oh-so-small rural town, with a few local restaurants, a church and a hard-to-spot interiors store, Vida Dura, which sells some of the same items you’ll have spotted at Vermelho, including beautiful crockery.The well-heeled beach towns of Carvalhal and Comporta are both about a 20-minute drive away, with their sand-dusted restaurants, bars and concept stores. Fans of the rustic, dune-wrapped JNcQUOI seafood spot should check out its smaller, more cosmopolitan restaurant and bar in town – the colourful, esoteric interiors are worth a visit alone, and you’ll spot a familiar face painted on the vases that crowd a shelf running all through the restaurant: Louboutin is one of the “friends of JNcQUOI” celebrated in the art installation.
The Lowdown
Doubles cost from £277 a night; vermelhohotel.com