04 October, 2019
Coqui Coqui started life as a perfumery before blossoming into a series of bohemian-cool hotels. Today, its Mérida residency - and its ostentatious bathrooms - has perhaps the greatest cult following of the Coqui Coqui clan.
On arrival at Calle 55 - a busy colonial street in Mérida that threads through its historic centre - you'll be greeted by wafting scents of tobacco and orange blossoms.
Entering the colonial-era town house (which feels more like a private residence than boutique hotel) you'll pass through a cavern of intoxicating perfumes and fragrant candles displayed under bell jars, en route to the check-in desk, charmingly tucked three-quarters of the way under the stairs.
At check-in, you'll likely confess (as we did) that this is one hideaway you've posted about, repinned repeatedly and have dreamed of visiting for quite a while.
With minimal communal spaces reserved exclusively for guests, it seems only justified that your bedroom be colossal. Enter the ground-floor Carlota Suite via a private lounge area. This light and airy sitting room is fitted with two sinkable, oversized chairs to beckon you further inside. Through to the next room, your wrought-iron bed, draped with muted maroon silk scarves, competes with geometric tiles and a freestanding, claw-foot bathtub - those seated out on the patio will spot you too - bear in mind when bathing. Banana-leaf-print patio furniture and a gauche parrot mosaic installed along the back wall of your private garden add some zhuzh while large lanterns and crawling plants do nothing to aid subtly. For weak-at-the-knees bathrooms, book out L´Epicerie, comprised of two freestanding bathtubs plotted in the centre of a Carrara-marble bathroom. His-and-hers vanities, chandeliers and antique mirrors elevate atmosphere.
Included in your room rate, breakfast can be served anywhere you like - in your room, on the roof terrace, in the courtyard or in the café under a wall of framed, botany-style artworks. Our advice: don't set your alarm (though, do let the hotel know if you are late risers) and enjoy a slow start to the morning in your suite. Order Mexican eggs, toast (with all the trimmings), yoghurt and granola and wash it all down with a tall glass of mango juice.
While a casual lunch can be prepared on request (with notice), the menu is by no means extensive. With no large kitchen or dining space on site, we recommend 500 Noches restaurant for dinner, located just five minutes down the street.
No. But your mini bar comes well stocked with mezcal, Mexican beer and tequila. Those margarita glasses aren't meant to be decorative…
Lay like broccoli on the upstairs sundeck. Petite in size, the swimming pool is more for cooling off than doing laps. Still, with honey-yellow walls, palms and graphic tiles, it's easy on the eyes and a great spot to recline and read a book.
Mérida is a great base for day trips. Head to the Uxmal pyramids for scenes that would make Indiana Jones weak at the knees.
Venture to El Colon for a mamey sapote fruit sorbet to cool off. Then put your sugar high to good use and shop at Kukul Boutik for traditionally influenced pieces with a contemporary polish. Still energy to burn? Head to Fundación de Artistas next door to the hotel.