Celebrating Independence: A Breezy Guide To Caribbean Spice Isle Grenada

Yesterday, Kennedy Roberts, aka “Chef Kennedy”, ate lunch with Grenada’s prime minister. Today, barefoot in his kitchen, he’s teaching our small group how to make the country’s national dish “oil down” – a rip-roaring salted meat, vegetable and dumpling stew cooked in coconut milk, herbs and spices.

“We’re going to use breadfruit and green bananas,” he explains, “then pigtails, chicken and codfish. For the veggies, we have carrots, okra, pumpkin and cabbage from the garden. I’ve grated some coconut. You can get the coconut milk in the can, but we use the real stuff.”

Credit: Home Hospitality Grenada

There are as many permutations of this much-loved dish as there are cooks in Grenada – the Edenic “Spice Isle” that, together with its smaller neighbours Carriacou and Petite Martinique, forms the southernmost Windward island. Its ingredients might even have come up in conversation over lunch with the PM: in his role as Grenadian ambassador, Chef Kennedy regularly liaises with politicians and the United Nations on the subject of the UN’s Sustainable Development Goal, established to support "peace and prosperity for people and the planet". But to recognise how deeply the Petite Martinique-born former university lecturer cares about the islands’ nuanced culinary heritage, you only have to step into his backyard – a great sweep of fertile valley planted with exuberant avocado, papaya and guava trees, lemongrass, ylang ylang and many more.

Credit: BA / Nico Schinco

Home Hospitality Grenada, the company Chef Kennedy founded in 2018 and runs with his daughter Ariel, 32, and wife Nikoyan out of their Mount Parnassus house, is behind today’s cooking lesson and garden tour. The family's knick-knacks – vintage wooden parrots; an old charcoal sketch done by a Turin street artist of our host sporting much bigger hair than he does today – and the presence of beloved dogs Gigi, Tutti and Mr Bravo are in perfect keeping with the project’s purpose: to share Grenada’s vibrant produce, traditions and culture with the world.

And what pleasures await the world on this eastern Caribbean island whose star exports include chocolate, nutmeg and rum. While relatively small, at 344sq km, Grenada is wildly diverse. Accessed via rollercoaster-esque roads, the volcanic north is home to the island’s tallest peak, the 840m-high Mount St Catherine, alongside primary and secondary rainforest and vast national parks perfect for hiking (though too hilly to be anything but knackering on a bike). The flat south, meanwhile, is fringed with some of the most “pinch me, I’m dreaming” beaches in the world. But no matter where you are in Grenada, you’ll never be too far from a characterful hotel, home-style restaurant sending out local soul food, laid-back bar you’ll never want to leave – looking at you, Esther’s – or souvenir shop stocked with native spices and traditional crafts, all punctuated by mighty palms whose fronds dance like bunting in the warm sea winds and, after dark, constellations of stars that seem to twinkle to the rhythm of the soca beat.

Credit: BA / Nico Schinco

Of course, such an astonishing natural bounty didn’t, historically, go unnoticed. Once home to indigenous peoples from nearby South America, Grenada was colonised by the French in 1649, then ceded to the British in 1763, remaining under British rule until 1974, when it finally gained full autonomy.

In 2024, with the country celebrating 50 years of independence, the colours of its flag adorn walls, fences and telephone poles islandwide, echoed in a scarlet fishing boat, Unique Force, we watch bobbing on the glittering water of St George’s harbour; empty nutmeg shells painted yellow and tipped onto the ground – Grenada’s home security system of choice, their being impossible to as much as tiptoe over quietly; and the handfuls of kelly-green callalloo, a versatile, spinach-like veg, that go into Chef Kennedy’s giant cast-iron pot.

Credit: BA / Nico Schinco

Throw in a busy annual calendar of tri-island festivals – think steel pan drums, flamboyant costumes, dancing and street food – and Grenada could be said to live in a permanent summer of its own making, were it not for the weather it’s been at the sharp end of over the years. It’s been 20 years since hurricane Ivan destroyed 90 per cent of the islands’ housing; 20 years of rebuilding, until, this June, Beryl came along, bringing fresh devastation, with Carriacou being the hardest hit. Evidently, though, this is a country that gets back up again, the resilience and will of its people stronger than any challenge they’re called upon to face.

“Sometimes, my dad’s running on two hours sleep and he’s just getting it done,” Ariel says, as Chef Kennedy, having cleared away our plates, pours everyone a slug of a River Antoine Estate rum so strong, it can’t be shipped overseas due to proofing laws. “I don’t know where the energy comes from,” she adds. “But, from our recently established nonprofit, its focus on creating opportunities for farmers, women and the young, to the training we’re doing in climate resilient agriculture, it’s about always moving forward.”

Where to stay

True Blue Bay Resort

Home to meandering boardwalks, destination restaurants and bars, a sea-facing swimming pool, open-air yoga studio, spa, watersports and diving centre and the loudest, happiest-sounding crickets we’ve heard anywhere, this friendly, family-run, 70-room stay epitomises Grenada’s laid-back allure. Be sure to check out the on-site Karaya Arawak Museum, which displays indigenous artefacts dating back 2,000 years, and order sundowners at Dodgy Dock – so-called because, having been put back together in a hurry post-Ivan, by popular demand, it’s charmingly crooked.

Old Mill Rd, True Blue Bay, St George's; truebluebay.com

Sandals Grenada Resort & Spa

This couples-only 257-key hideaway – even its tropical blooms appear to be more sexually suggestive than those found elsewhere on the island – consistently tops “best Caribbean resorts” lists. Love birds have at their disposal 10 speciality restaurants (including an ice-cream parlour serving all-you-can-eat scoops topped with nutmeg syrup and chocolate buttons), six bars, and the Castaway fantasy-inducing Pink Gin beach. Special occasion? Go all-out with a honeymoon suite complete with private pool, hot tub and trio of butlers. (Just don’t expect your partner to provide turn-down cheese boards and fruit platters when you get home.)

Pink Gin beach, St George's; sandals.co.uk

Hotel Calabash

The easy-on-the-eye Hotel Calabash wasn’t designed by Ralph Lauren, but it could’ve been, with its pale, preppy palette, clean design and chic country club feel. Set on the secluded l’Anse aux Epines beach, the 30-suite, family-run boutique stay has every luxury you’d want your tropical idyll to have, with dining options spanning Latin-inspired poolside plates to Grenadian fine dining, plus next-gen spa and fitness facilities and a fabulous infinity pool. As part of its endeavour to look after its community, the Calabash supports charity Pack for a Purpose, which gathers supplies from travellers around the world and provides education for the residents of four local children’s homes.

L'anse Aux Epines Main Rd, St George's; calabashhotel.com

Spice Islands Beach Resort

Another locally owned, family-run, picture-postcard-perfect retreat, Spice Islands’ 64 villa-style suites are set on a prime stretch of Grand Anse beach that warrants slow exploration by bicycle, kayak or catamaran. Alternatively, hang out in your private plunge pool watching iguanas, butterflies, flycatchers and bullfinches dart overhead, or head to the spa, pool or on-site Oliver Restaurant, whose refined Caribbean-Creole menu means the dining room is always full, with guests and locals alike.

Grand Anse Beach, The Lime, St George’s; spiceislandbeachresort.com

Credit: BA / Nico Schinco

Where to eat

Dexters

Ex-Calabash Hotel chef Dexter Burris offers an outstanding five-course prix-fixe menu – £44pp, including wine – at this cosy restaurant built within his own home. The decor is more family kitchen than starched tablecloths, with the palpable sense of anticipation in the room making sense when the courses come out: think gingery cream of pumpkin soup; whatever fish is best that day; big bowlfuls of nutmeg ice cream; and cups of fragrant bay leaf tea. Reservations are a must.

Fenton Village; facebook.com/Bestexperience

Aquarium

When a member of our party asks our waitperson what ‘lambie’ is, she simply pops down to the beach below – all white sand crisscrossed by palms, the smiling Caribbean Sea almost close enough to touch – picks up a huge, peachy-pink conch shell and brings it back to show him: “This is lambie.” Local produce drives a menu of contemporary bistro-style plates that prove this elegant idyll is much more than just a pretty face. Come on Sunday for a grill extravaganza and live music.

Point Salines; aquariumgrenada.com

Soups

“Waters” is something like Grenada’s answer to New England’s clam chowder. It comes in various iterations – lambie waters, crayfish waters, potato and callalloo waters…. With a broth base and plenty of the headline fresh ingredients, it’s a meal in itself, and this hole-in-the-wall at Grand Anse beach is one of the best places to try it. Eat at one of the courtyard tables or find a palm tree on the beach to sit under and slurp it down, toes-in-the-sand.

Grand Anse beach, The Lime, St George’s

Grenada could be said to live in a permanent summer of its own making

The Shack

More reason, as if any were needed, to visit the epic Magazine beach in Grenada’s far southwest corner – a pristine curve of white sand framed by steep cliffs on one side and rolling green hills on the other – comes in the form of this rudimentary food truck, “The Shack” hand-painted in giant pink bubble letters under the hatch. It’s only open on Saturdays, and it only does grilled chicken and fish, but the sheer deliciousness of that grilled chicken and fish, plus the cinematic setting, will have you counting down the days till next weekend from the moment you take your last bite.

Magazine beach, Molinière Bay, St George’s

Where to drink

Esther’s Bar

Situated among the cluster of unassuming hole-in-the-walls set around the communal courtyard on Grand Anse beach, Esther’s is one of those places that’s more than the sum of its parts. Named after its founder and run by her son and daughter, it’s the place to pause for a milkshake or icy-cold Ting – like Sprite but better – en route to or from a dip. It’s also the place to kick back under the stars, drinking phenomenal coconut mojitos, shooting the breeze and listening to soca music by artists like Boyzie, Dash, Thamara “Songbird” St Bernard and A#keem. Just go.

Grand Anse beach, The Lime, St George’s; @esthersbar

The Brewery

The popular beer garden of Lance Aux Épines microbrewery West Indies Beer Co, The Brewery prides itself on its speciality real ales, which are hand-crafted by a master brewer using primo malt and hops and then keg-conditioned – a rarity in Grenada. Whether you’re into pale ales and stouts or not, it’s a great spot to sit in the sun and graze on good bar snacks or perhaps try a mango cider – possibly finding yourself still there listening to a live band late into the night.

L'anse Aux Epines Main Rd, St George’s; westindiesbeer.com/index.html

Friday Bar

A cross between a tropical treehouse and air-traffic control tower, this understated hangout offers front-row seats to Grenada airport’s main runway, along with typical home-style food in the evenings and a breakfast on Saturdays that brings people from all over the island for its traditional salt fish, salad and bread rolls. If owner Brian McIntyre’s in the house, say yes when he offers you a shot of “under the table”, a potent local liqueur containing island spices, botanicals – and a centipede. Drinking it is said to protect you against any other centipedes bothering you. Closed Mondays.

Quazye Rd, Calliste, St. George's

Credit: BA / Nico Schinco

Junction Bar & Grill

Located next door to The Brewery, this local institution draws in crowds for its cold beers, custom-built burgers and totally tropical party atmosphere. Guests for Wednesday night’s open mic and karaoke session are invited to bring along their own instruments (or borrow from the bar), while Thursday means Latin Night – and music and free dance lessons from 9pm – and Friday and Saturday nights are dedicated to DJ sets and easy-on-the-wallet (and to drink) sangria and lime margaritas.

L'anse Aux Epines Main Rd, St George’s; facebook.com/JunctionBarGrillGrenada

Where to shop

Spice Market, St George’s

Before going inside the capital’s biggest covered spice market, hydrate on one of the fresh juices from the stand outside – options include sorrel, like Vimto without the e-numbers, golden apple, aka June plum, ginger, with a serious kick, and many more. Inside, browse farmers’ stalls selling all the spices Grenada made its name for, learning how to use them both in the kitchen and as health remedies – cloves for toothache, turmeric for poor circulation, bois banda as an aphrodisiac etc. You’ll also find giant, heavy-duty spice graters, which make a practical souvenir. Fridays and Saturdays are the main market days, but several stalls are open daily.

Market Sq, St George’s

The Outlet

Open Monday to Saturday, 10am-6pm, at the Galleria Mall, Grand Anse, The Outlet sells exclusively Grenadian-made products from more than 20 innovative small businesses founded by local craftspeople and artists. Browse the likes of organic cocoa balls (for a sweet, warming tea), coconut-shell candles and heavenly scents for your car in the airy, terracotta-tiled showroom. And if you’re considering a life change, perhaps drop off your CV: they’re currently hiring.

Galleria Mall, Grand Anse, St George’s; instagram.com/theentrepreneurshubgnd

Art and Soul Books

Founded by Grenadian artist and curator Susan Mains in 2002, Art and Soul still fulfils its original remit – to sell books by regional artists and writers, including a wide range of colourful books for children. The bookshelves have since been joined by a light-flooded gallery space representing contemporary local, regional and international artists. Open Monday to Saturday, 10am-5pm, or by appointment.

Spiceland Mall, Grand Anse, St George’s; artandsoulgrenada.com

Grand Anse Craft Market

You might not have realised your life was crying out for a canary-yellow Carib beer (locally brewed since 1960) tshirt. Or a palm-frond fruit bowl (which starts out green and gradually ages to honey-brown) hand-woven by Frank, owner of Culture Man. Or a statement bead necklace strung in retro shades of lavender, turquoise and green. Put that right here, where you’ll find a diverse array of genuine local crafts and their makers all under one roof.

Grand Anse beach, The Lime, St George’s

Credit: BA / Nico Schinco

What to do

Home Hospitality cooking workshop

Join Chef Kennedy in his kitchen to whip up a traditional oil down feast, which, following a tour of his lush garden, the source of many of the ingredients you’ll be working with – you’ll get to tuck into on the Caribbean-facing alfresco terrace. An experience that feels more like visiting family friends than attending a class – mango “nice cream” and rum punch are also on the menu – you’ll leave knowing far more about Grenada than you did when you arrived – and with three new doggy friends. The class, tour and lunch costs £90pp.

Radix Jct, Mt Parnassus Rd, St George's; hhgnd.com

House of Chocolate

“This is how your Coco Pops start,” says charismatic House of Chocolate guide Dain James, before launching into a lively bean-to-bar demonstration of one of Grenada’s most important exports – an astonishing 30 per cent of the world’s cocoa originates here. In addition to the museum, there’s a café (with a counter of intricately hand-crafted chocs that have to be tasted to be believed) and a big shop packed with everything from skin-saving, 100 per cent cocoa butter to earrings made from surplas pods.

Young St, St George's; houseofchocolategnd.com

Nutmeg Museum

Grenada had long been the world’s second largest producer of nutmeg (after Indonesia) until Hurricane Ivan came along and pushed it down the rankings. Thankfully, the crops are now recovering well, as you’ll learn at this brilliant rural museum run by the Grenada Cooperative Nutmeg Association, whose fascinating guided tour covers everything involved in the processing of nutmeg (the seed) and mace (the lacy, waxy webbing that surrounds it). There are plenty of samples to taste along the way, and the museum’s small shop sells iterations of the spice you won’t find anywhere else, including slivers of candied mace that pair perfectly with cheese.

Diamond St St Mark's, Victoria; grenadamuseums.com

Annandale Waterfall

You probably haven't heard of the “Annandale Jumpers”, a group of local men who, for a small donation, will climb up to the top of the magnificent, 9m-high Annandale waterfall and launch themselves off for visitors’ entertainment, but their bravery definitely deserves a wider audience. This spectacular, rainforest-ensconsed waterfall – one of the country’s easiest to access – feeds into a cool lagoon, which makes for a deliciously refreshing dip. Look out for Aries on your way in – the mona monkey pet of the people who live in the house at the top of the hill, a stone’s throw from the falls.

Willis; grenadawaterfalls.com