Philomena Schurer Merckoll’s Guide To Marrakech

It's easy to see why Berlin-based luggage makers Horizn Studios picked Riad Mena as a backdrop to their Spring-Summer 2024 campaign. Originally conceived by hotelier Philomena Schurer Merckoll as a private residence, the seven-bed riad retains the gentle serenity of an intimate family home and mirrors the warm generosity of the city beyond its walls. Aiming to capture the hopeful blossoming of the warmer seasons, Horizn Studios' new campaign perfectly matches the vibe of the unique property; a tranquil oasis sequestered into the heart of Marrakech's buzz.

"I really believe that each place has its own language and energy – and when renovating, its about keeping that original spirit," Schurer Merckoll says of her vision behind the property. "The bones and proportions of Riad Mena were harmonious – and the feeling always very serene – so we wanted to enhance that. The muted palette and natural materials let the house speak, rather than the interiors.

Marrakech's central district

The hotelier, who visits Morocco at least once a month, now operates two hotels in the country: Riad Mena, and a rural retreat in Oumnass called Berber Lodge, some 30 minutes' drive from the Medina. "It's the juxtaposition that I love so much about Marrakech," Schurer Merckoll says. "I'm always surprised that the city is so bustling but you can enter the calmest natural spaces just a short drive away. My favourite thing to do is lie under the 100-year-old olive trees at Berber Lodge – it's just divine."

Schurer Merckoll is now preparing for the opening of her third Moroccan venture in September: another riad next door to the original Mena. It's a totally different style,"she says, "every colourful and joyful, and has been so much fun to work on." The stay has London-based designer Gergei Erdei at the helm, who previously worked as a fashion designer at Gucci before turning his hand to interiors.

Medina streets around Riad Mena

Schurer Merckoll is looking forward to spending more time in the city that offers huge inspiration for her creatively – when the new riad opens in September, the hotelier will be in the city for most of the month. We sat down with her to discover what's new in the Pink City and get her tips on where to visit.

Marrakech city guide: exploring withPhilomena Schurer Merckoll

What's exciting you about Marrakech right now?

Marrakech is a city that is always evolving and right now, it is in a totally new moment again. So many great spots – from farm shops to restaurants – are opening, driven by young Moroccans who are bringing a fresh take to the city, and much of the action is shifting to the new town of Gueliz, giving it all a contemporary feel.

The best place to stay in the city?

I would say Riad Mena, of course! To stay in a riad is to experience Marrakech in an authentic way. You wake up to the sounds of birdsong coming from the inner courtyard garden. The serenity riads offer away from the bustle of the old town outside is unmatched.

Schurer Merckoll originally devised Riad Mena as a private residence

When someone visits, where do you take them first?

If it's your first time in Marrakech, I'll walk you from Riad Mena to the main square, Jemaa el Fna – a short walk to a Unesco World Heritage site that's the beating heart of the city. I especially love it when the sun starts to set and evening comes, the food stalls are wafting smells and everyone bustles around to eat and meet. It's a magical energy.

What's a book to read while we're in town?

The Voices of Marrakech by Elias Canetti. Even though it was published many years ago, in 1978, it still captures the essence of Marrakech and what makes this city.

Where should we head for coffee in the city?

The last year has seen quite a few great coffee spots open, such as Blue Ribbon bakery and also Thirty5ive, both in Gueliz. I must admit, though, that I love the old-school coffee that you can get at any café in the city: order a Nous Nous, which is Arabic for "half half" and is half strong coffee, half milk.

What about breakfast?

The best spot for breakfast is on the roof terrace of your riad. The second best spot is Le Grand Café de la Poste. It's very old-school but always buzzing. Head here for your morning croissant and some freshly squeezed orange juice.

Recently opened restaurant Sahbi Sahbi | Photo credit: Pascal Montary

Any restaurants on your radar right now?

Sahbi Sahbi opened last year and was a game-changer for the city. The cuisine is traditional Moroccan, but the place is totally contemporary, designed by Studio KO, who have this amazing way of integrating traditional artisanry, such as wood-carved ceilings and locally made bejmat tiles, with a fresh, new feel. The restaurant is run by women. Traditionally, women are hidden away in the kitchen, but its ethos is all about celebrating them. Here, women chefs cook in a central open space. I always go for the white fish with homemade chermoula, or their slow-cooked lamb, and I have all of their Moroccan salad selection to start!

Where should we go for a drink?

It's an oldie but a goodie: the rooftop of riad El Fenn. You'll find great cocktails and the best sunset view in town. I always have the mojito as, to me, mint is the taste of Marrakech.

Schurer Merckoll at Riad Mena with Gergei Erdei, left, and Nomad's rooftop dining space

Tell us about your favourite independent shops...

There are so many! In Marrakech, artisanry is abundant. I love Soufiane Zarib for a great selection of rugs, both contemporary and vintage. His showroom in Dar el Bacha is an interiors haven. LRNCE has been doing her [owner Laurence Leenaertu's] own style of ceramics for many years now, all hand painted and very joyful – I always have my morning coffee out of one of her mugs to brighten my day. For clothing, I head to Au Fil d'Or (10 Derb Semmarine), a traditional tailor in the middle of the souk. I love the simple cotton kaftans and cashmere capes they produce, as well as the softest suede babouches in town.

What are your favourite spots for vintage fashion and furniture?

Carmen Haid is a close friend who opened Atelier Mayer in Tameslohte (30 minutes' drive from the city centre) last year. She has the best eye for vintage – clothing and objects – as well as designing bespoke pieces made with local artisans.

Where do you go when you want to be inspired?

I find the whole of Marrakech so inspiring; it's a real attack on the senses in the best of ways. From the smells to the sounds and being such a hub of artisanry, this visual and sensorial feast is hugely inspiring on a creative level.

How do you relax in the city?

My indulgent treat is a traditional Moroccan hammam at the Royal Mansour.

Any emerging local talent we should check out?

Sana Benzaitar is one of the few female entrepreneurs making and selling rugs with her namesake company, Studio Sana Benzaitar. Kamal Laftimi is more established: she's really the restaurateur of Marrakech, and the owner of some of my favourite spots, including Nomad and the newly opened Petanque Social Club.

What's next for Riad Mena?

We're opening our new riad next to Riad Mena. Designed by Gergei Erdei, It is a totally different style – very colourful and joyful. It's been so fun to work on and is opening soon.