Long overshadowed by the rain cloud-draped cities of west Washington, where Pacific coastlines and grunge-tinged culture reign supreme, the sun-kissed east of this American state is quietly emerging as a drinking and dining frontier.
Stretching from the knife-edged peaks of the Cascades to the golden wheat fields that ripple into Idaho, this agricultural region is suddenly being noticed for its nascent farm-to-table movement, next-generation winemakers and an undeniable sense of place rooted in its stunning landscapes and historic railroad towns.
The vineyards here rival those of Napa – minus the fanfare. Restaurants are embracing hyperlocal ingredients, turning out menus that celebrate the land through unpretentious, inventive cooking. And then there’s the beer culture – this is, after all, where most of America’s hops are grown – which lends an earthy, time-honoured dimension to a food and drink scene as diverse as the landscape itself.
Stretching from the knife-edged peaks of the Cascades to the golden wheat fields that ripple into Idaho, this agricultural region is suddenly being noticed for its nascent farm-to-table movement, next-generation winemakers and an undeniable sense of place rooted in its stunning landscapes and historic railroad towns.
The vineyards here rival those of Napa – minus the fanfare. Restaurants are embracing hyperlocal ingredients, turning out menus that celebrate the land through unpretentious, inventive cooking. And then there’s the beer culture – this is, after all, where most of America’s hops are grown – which lends an earthy, time-honoured dimension to a food and drink scene as diverse as the landscape itself.
Highways cut through arid landscapes in the state’s east
And what a landscape it is. From stretching fields that roll into the distance to Spokane’s thunderous city falls, via the striking basalt cliffs of Palouse Falls and Cowiche Canyon’s sun-kissed, boulder-strewn beauty, nature unfolds on a cinematic scale in the state’s interior. Pair that with the former riches of the region’s railroad towns – all extravagant old hotels and impressive downtowns – and eastern Washington is revealing itself to be authentic, ambitious and quietly spectacular. Go now, before it becomes the new Napa.
Further east, book into The Marcus Whitman Hotel in Walla Walla. This grande dame – a towering, historic boutique stay in the heart of the college town – has enjoyed a recent transformation, pairing the retro nostalgia of its 1920s heyday with jewel-bright renovations. In Spokane, you can step into another era at The Davenport, a lovingly restored relic of Washington’s railway-centric past. Think Renaissance-meets-Spanish revival interiors, opulent chandeliers, ornate glass ceilings and – if the stories are to be believed – charming ghostly residents.
And what a landscape it is. From stretching fields that roll into the distance to Spokane’s thunderous city falls, via the striking basalt cliffs of Palouse Falls and Cowiche Canyon’s sun-kissed, boulder-strewn beauty, nature unfolds on a cinematic scale in the state’s interior. Pair that with the former riches of the region’s railroad towns – all extravagant old hotels and impressive downtowns – and eastern Washington is revealing itself to be authentic, ambitious and quietly spectacular. Go now, before it becomes the new Napa.
Where to stay
Just off a red-eye? Ease into your Washington adventure at The Lodge at St Edward Park, a reimagined 1930s Catholic seminary turned sleepy country retreat. Noma alum and Seattle native Luke Kolpin heads the hotel restaurant, Cedar + Elm, where locally sourced fine dining meets New Nordic innovation. Ask for directions to find the lake in the 131 hectares of forest surrounding the property – there’s nothing like a bracing morning dip to shake off the jet lag.Further east, book into The Marcus Whitman Hotel in Walla Walla. This grande dame – a towering, historic boutique stay in the heart of the college town – has enjoyed a recent transformation, pairing the retro nostalgia of its 1920s heyday with jewel-bright renovations. In Spokane, you can step into another era at The Davenport, a lovingly restored relic of Washington’s railway-centric past. Think Renaissance-meets-Spanish revival interiors, opulent chandeliers, ornate glass ceilings and – if the stories are to be believed – charming ghostly residents.
A Trail Feast location just outside Spokane, with chef Chad White, right
In Walla Walla, make tracks to the Salted Mill. Housed in a light-filled former sawmill, the restaurant offers global flavours with a proud American backbone – think, chimichurri steak, zesty ginger tofu noodles and a perfected “drive-in” burger.
Feeling adventurous? Book a Trail Feast with Top Chef star Chad White. Your ticket gets you GPS coordinates to a secret wild location somewhere in Washington (and, sometimes, further afield), where White’s team crafts a multi-course, open-fire feast using the best local produce. Expect foraged ingredients, craft cocktails, and the kind of meal you’ll still be thinking about in a year’s time.
Where to go for dinner
Yakima’s Crafted is a farm-to-table love letter to Washington’s seasonal bounty. Two-times James Beard Award nominee Dan Koommoo sources everything within 160km (that’s small fry in a state as big as Washington), turning out colourful, shareable plates. The deconstructed s’mores dessert? Unmissable.In Walla Walla, make tracks to the Salted Mill. Housed in a light-filled former sawmill, the restaurant offers global flavours with a proud American backbone – think, chimichurri steak, zesty ginger tofu noodles and a perfected “drive-in” burger.
Feeling adventurous? Book a Trail Feast with Top Chef star Chad White. Your ticket gets you GPS coordinates to a secret wild location somewhere in Washington (and, sometimes, further afield), where White’s team crafts a multi-course, open-fire feast using the best local produce. Expect foraged ingredients, craft cocktails, and the kind of meal you’ll still be thinking about in a year’s time.
Grapes at Dineen Vineyards, left, and L’Ecole No41’s tasting room and restaurant
Over in Yakima, you’ll want to switch to beer. The town grows 75 per cent of America’s entire hop harvest, and Single Hill Brewing is a standout. Its relaxed taproom pours everything from tart sours to ultra-hoppy IPAs, with seasonal, fresh-hop brews available during the harvest.
And for a drink?
Where to start? Eastern Washington is America’s second-largest grape-growing region and has tasting rooms at every road turn. Go organic at Dineen Vineyards, enjoy a casual glass (and pizza) at Two Mountain Winery, or savour bold reds at L’Ecole No41, a 40-year old institution housed in a historic schoolhouse. For a more modern experience, visit Valdemar Estates, where Spanish winemaking meets Washington terroir. Feeling experimental? Explore up-and-coming players such as Grosgrain, where uncommon varieties and innovative winemaking techniques are yielding some funky, fresh bottles.Over in Yakima, you’ll want to switch to beer. The town grows 75 per cent of America’s entire hop harvest, and Single Hill Brewing is a standout. Its relaxed taproom pours everything from tart sours to ultra-hoppy IPAs, with seasonal, fresh-hop brews available during the harvest.
Yakima, left, and kegs to-go at Single Hill Brewing
Don’t miss
Frog Hollow Farm is a picturesque pick-your-own paradise. Run by Jeff and Amy Dietrich since 2006, it supplies local restaurants and wandering visitors alike. You’ll find heirloom tomatoes, vibrant dahlias and rows of rambunctious veggies surrounding a cherry-red barn stocked with artisanal cheeses, charcuterie and fresh produce. Grab some edible souvenirs – and don’t forget to say hi to the goats.Essentials to buy
A bag of saltwater taffy from Thorp Fruit & Antique Mall – a legendary roadside stop that’s been fuelling eastern Washington road-trippers for more than 60 years. Browse through the antiques upstairs (dirt-cheap Western novels? Cowboy boots?) before heading downstairs to sample apple varieties with names like Cosmic Crisp and Ambrosia, local beef jerky, and popcorn in wild flavours. But the real find? The taffy – penny-cheap, USA-made sweets available in every flavour imaginable, from maple bacon to marionberry.
Frog Hollow Farm in Walla Walla
How to get there
British Airways runs regular flights from London Heathrow to Seattle. From there, rent a car and cruise east along the I-90.The Lowdown
For more information, visit stateofwatourism.com and portseattle.org
