29 June, 2018
You can't go too far wrong staying in a hotel that overlooks a theme park and a museum; the adult playground of Tivoli Gardens and the art mecca of Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek can be seen from most rooms in Copenhagen's Nobis Hotel.
It's the first (and only) member of the Design Hotels collection in Denmark, with a lobby reflecting this accolade; think hanging lamps, perfectly positioned foliage and plenty of polished concrete. Speaking of concrete, the reception desk is an austere polished block of the stuff, paying homage to the fact that this former music academy was one of the capital's first concrete-built structures.
With a Wes Anderson-esque facade, eclectic mid-century furniture and a marble staircase dating from the 1900s, this mishmash hotel probably shouldn't work as well as it does. Swedish architect Gert Wingårdh, who oversaw the refurbishment in 2017, is a self-professed maximalist and his signature style (a paradox of playful and strict) is stamped all over. It's the kind of place that makes you feel a little cooler just for having crossed its understated threshold.
There are 75 rooms (including the almost 1,000 square foot Nobis suite) painted in varying hues of green and blue. Superior rooms are not huge but tall windows, high ceilings and a refreshing colour palette make them feel spacious. The steel four-poster beds - flanked by characteristically simple Danish lamps in metal - contrast with the soft leather 50s-style chairs and desks. Bathrooms, while compact, are well stocked with Byredo products and decked out in floor-to-ceiling grey marble.
Breakfast is served in Restaurant Niels on the lower-ground floor, where a buffet is just as beautifully curated as the fir-wood floor. Think artfully arranged grilled blood oranges, spiced avocado quarters and, of course, Danish pastries.
Chef de Cuisines Casper Sundin chooses seasonal, local ingredients for a pared-back menu; dishes such as sweetbreads and pork are presented with a hint of tradition. There's also a limited room service menu if you're having that kind of weekend.
Yes. Take the majestic marble stairs down to the ground floor to admire elaborate light installation from below before grabbing a stool at Bar Niels. It's essentially a nook in the corner of the eponymous restaurant but it has pleasantly low lighting, friendly staff and deliciously punchy negronis.
It's only a few blocks from Copenhagen Central Station (a 10-minute walk at most) which in itself is a short journey to the airport. No need to rush your perfectly soft-boiled eggs on check-out day, then.
Whatever you wish - Rosa, who mans the front desk, effusively suggests local stroll routes and restaurant recommendations, right down to expert menu advice.