The Crystal Lemon cucumber that Merlin Labron-Johnson plucks from between a tangle of thick, hairy leaves is a surprise. For one, it’s a bright yellow orb – more citrus than salad in appearance. For another, it’s growing outside in a small, rambunctious farm plot no more than 10 minutes from his Somerset restaurant, Osip.
In case you weren’t aware, most cucumbers in the UK are grown under glass; coaxed along in controlled conditions. But, like much of the produce flourishing in Labron-Johnson’s unruly vegetable patch, Dreamers Farm, the Crystal Lemon cucumber is an experiment. It’s here, and at a second site just outside Bruton, that the chef grows the ingredients that shape his menus, which are dictated not by a set repertoire, but by whatever he, his head grower and restaurant staff pull from the soil each morning.
In case you weren’t aware, most cucumbers in the UK are grown under glass; coaxed along in controlled conditions. But, like much of the produce flourishing in Labron-Johnson’s unruly vegetable patch, Dreamers Farm, the Crystal Lemon cucumber is an experiment. It’s here, and at a second site just outside Bruton, that the chef grows the ingredients that shape his menus, which are dictated not by a set repertoire, but by whatever he, his head grower and restaurant staff pull from the soil each morning.
Merlin Labron-Johnson harvesting produce, left, and Osip’s new home, a 17th-century coaching inn
First opened in late 2019, Labron-Johnson’s Somerset restaurant, Osip, relocated to a 17th-century coaching inn on the outskirts of Bruton in 2024, becoming, informally, Osip 2.0. This summer, the restaurant added "The Rooms" to its offering: four thoughtfully designed bedrooms that allow diners to make an overnighter of it. The launch completed the chef’s vision of offering an all-encompassing dining experience: with its nearby farmhouse plots (which staying guests can now take a tour of), historic setting and rolling Somerset views, the restaurant-with-rooms now offers the full arc of the Osip story: from soil, to kitchen, to table, to bed.
We arrived on a warm August afternoon, after a slow drive down verdant country lanes, kites wheeling in the cloudless sky above. After we'd dropped our bags at the front desk, the chef whisked us away to explore Dreamers, one of two farms that now feed Osip.
Labron-Johnson first began gardening during lockdown in a borrowed walled garden plot, learning from YouTube tutorials and the stubborn trial-and-error of Somerset soil – a far cry from his more conventional kitchen education at lauded European restaurants, and successful London openings Portland and Clipstone. What started as a hobby has since become two working gardens, producing enough for both of his restaurants to call themselves almost self-sufficient, with any surplus sold on to neighbouring kitchens. In early August, the plot is bursting with ready-to-pick produce: marbled pink bolletti beans, hefty pumpkins, nodding dahlia flowers, tomatoes, carrots, beetroot, runner beans, the lot.
First opened in late 2019, Labron-Johnson’s Somerset restaurant, Osip, relocated to a 17th-century coaching inn on the outskirts of Bruton in 2024, becoming, informally, Osip 2.0. This summer, the restaurant added "The Rooms" to its offering: four thoughtfully designed bedrooms that allow diners to make an overnighter of it. The launch completed the chef’s vision of offering an all-encompassing dining experience: with its nearby farmhouse plots (which staying guests can now take a tour of), historic setting and rolling Somerset views, the restaurant-with-rooms now offers the full arc of the Osip story: from soil, to kitchen, to table, to bed.
We arrived on a warm August afternoon, after a slow drive down verdant country lanes, kites wheeling in the cloudless sky above. After we'd dropped our bags at the front desk, the chef whisked us away to explore Dreamers, one of two farms that now feed Osip.
Labron-Johnson first began gardening during lockdown in a borrowed walled garden plot, learning from YouTube tutorials and the stubborn trial-and-error of Somerset soil – a far cry from his more conventional kitchen education at lauded European restaurants, and successful London openings Portland and Clipstone. What started as a hobby has since become two working gardens, producing enough for both of his restaurants to call themselves almost self-sufficient, with any surplus sold on to neighbouring kitchens. In early August, the plot is bursting with ready-to-pick produce: marbled pink bolletti beans, hefty pumpkins, nodding dahlia flowers, tomatoes, carrots, beetroot, runner beans, the lot.
The restaurant has four beautifully appointed rooms, all named after local rivers
“We’ve got a lot of cucumber, lots of tomato, and courgette, too,” the chef says, before plucking a bright yellow Sungold cherry tomato from the vine for me to try. It’s an intense, sun-sweet pop of gold.
Later, those same Sungolds reappear on Osip’s evening menu, served almost naked – just a little sea salt and nothing more – as part of a procession of dishes celebrating tomato in all its guises. It is emblematic of Labron-Johnson’s cooking style: ingredient-led, pared-back plates that let the flavours speak for themselves.
“We’ve got a lot of cucumber, lots of tomato, and courgette, too,” the chef says, before plucking a bright yellow Sungold cherry tomato from the vine for me to try. It’s an intense, sun-sweet pop of gold.
Later, those same Sungolds reappear on Osip’s evening menu, served almost naked – just a little sea salt and nothing more – as part of a procession of dishes celebrating tomato in all its guises. It is emblematic of Labron-Johnson’s cooking style: ingredient-led, pared-back plates that let the flavours speak for themselves.
Rooms
Reached by clambering up a winding, whitewashed staircase, the restaurant’s four bedrooms – named after local rivers Pitt, Brue, Avon and Somer – reflect the late-summer colour palette of the Somerset countryside. A jug of hedgerow blooms brightens the windowsill; sculptural bundles of dried herbs hang on the wall; handmade jute rugs and a live-edge English oak headboard, crafted from timber sourced within 15km, lend an earthy elegance. The key to your room dangles from a weighted leather coin purse – the kind a Bennett sister might once have worn at her wrist.
Interiors reflect the late-summer colour palette of the Somerset countryside
Each room feels anchored by its super-king bed, while a small wooden table by the door extends a welcome of apples, treacly canelés, jars of herbal teas, local apple juice and cider. Outside, stretch Somerset’s rolling, dimpled hills, while a Roberts radio in the corner hums with Radio 4. The effect is softly romantic – a simplicity born of reverence for place.
Bathrooms continue the rustic-chic narrative: honeyed stone floors echo the buttery hues of the surrounding flora, antique wooden stools balance neatly rolled towels, and bespoke toiletries draw on kitchen-garden ingredients, scented with verbena and lemon peel, ho wood and bay leaf. Two rooms have free-standing bathtubs – the others enjoy generously sized walk-in showers.
Each room feels anchored by its super-king bed, while a small wooden table by the door extends a welcome of apples, treacly canelés, jars of herbal teas, local apple juice and cider. Outside, stretch Somerset’s rolling, dimpled hills, while a Roberts radio in the corner hums with Radio 4. The effect is softly romantic – a simplicity born of reverence for place.
Bathrooms continue the rustic-chic narrative: honeyed stone floors echo the buttery hues of the surrounding flora, antique wooden stools balance neatly rolled towels, and bespoke toiletries draw on kitchen-garden ingredients, scented with verbena and lemon peel, ho wood and bay leaf. Two rooms have free-standing bathtubs – the others enjoy generously sized walk-in showers.
What’s for breakfast?
Breakfast (from 8am) is a French farmhouse-style spread, set over crisp white tablecloths. Expect homemade buckwheat granola, yoghurt, organic honey and two compotes at your place, alongside a miniature cardamom bun. At the central buffet, a hen-shaped cloche conceals soft-boiled eggs, while fresh sourdough bread, Caerphilly and Westcombe Cheddar, hay-smoked trout, honey-roast ham, and a generous fruit bowl filled with delights including – on our visit – fresh English cherries, invite you to linger. The daily newspapers, filter coffee and fresh fruit juices help, too.
Two of the four rooms feature free-standing bathtubs
We began with a drink in the garden, gazing out over Somerset’s rolling hills while nibbling cucumber and radish crudites and a creamy Caerphilly and courgette flower tart. Inside, beside an open kitchen framed by floor-to-ceiling windows, the procession began: pressed tomato water dancing with fig leaf oil; sweet cherry tomatoes dusted with sea salt; a tomato powder-laced sweet brioche paired with whipped kefir and a tomato-basil jelly.
Then, onwards: smoked eel beneath a yellow dahlia leaf; raw scallops doused with diced strawberries; a circle of Red Emily potato in whey sauce crowned with grilled Cornish octopus; a beetroot taco; seabass with hazelnut miso tucked into a nasturtium flower; blushing duck breast; and, finally, a pistachio tart with rocket sorbet. It’s joyous, creative, and fun – and delicious.
Lunch and dinner
Dinner is Labron-Johnson’s homage to the farm – a menu sculpted by the seasons, and what’s bountiful. For us, that meant tomatoes – and lots of them.We began with a drink in the garden, gazing out over Somerset’s rolling hills while nibbling cucumber and radish crudites and a creamy Caerphilly and courgette flower tart. Inside, beside an open kitchen framed by floor-to-ceiling windows, the procession began: pressed tomato water dancing with fig leaf oil; sweet cherry tomatoes dusted with sea salt; a tomato powder-laced sweet brioche paired with whipped kefir and a tomato-basil jelly.
Then, onwards: smoked eel beneath a yellow dahlia leaf; raw scallops doused with diced strawberries; a circle of Red Emily potato in whey sauce crowned with grilled Cornish octopus; a beetroot taco; seabass with hazelnut miso tucked into a nasturtium flower; blushing duck breast; and, finally, a pistachio tart with rocket sorbet. It’s joyous, creative, and fun – and delicious.
Is there a bar?
Of sorts. Whether you’re awaiting dinner, lounging in the reception or relaxing in your room, you need only ask and you’ll be offered a cornucopia of liquid delights. We’d recommend the preserved tomato martini.Amenities
This is a restaurant with rooms, so don’t expect a pool or gym. From September, however, guests can book visits to the veg-laden Dreamers farms for a deeper understanding of the food on their plates.
The restaurant sits on the ground floor of the coaching inn, with an open-plan kitchen and views across the Somerset countryside
What are the eco-credentials like?
With its Michelin Green Star, Osip has lots to boast about when talking kitchen sustainability: there are no single-use plastics across the site, the restaurant is almost self-sufficient and – obviously – most of the produce used to feed guests is grown a mere few kilometres away, at the most.What about accessibility?
An old coaching inn is an old coaching inn – there are narrow steps, uneven floors and the rooms can only be accessed by stairs, although there is a slightly less rickety staircase on the outside of the building.What’s the crowd like?
Couples marking anniversaries, city escapees in well-cut linens, and a sprinkling of culinary pilgrims.Within a short walk I can find…
Bruton might be small, but its cultural and culinary clout is top-notch. Stroll its high street for wood-fired pizzas courtesy of At The Chapel, or drop into Labron-Johnson’s own The Old Pharmacy. A short drive away, the Hauser & Wirth gallery pairs contemporary art with a Piet Oudolf-designed garden. Further afield, Stourhead – the National Trust estate immortalised in the 2005, Keira Knightley-starring Pride and Prejudice – awaits.The Lowdown
Doubles cost from £240 a night, including breakfast and transfers to and from surrounding train stations. The tasting menu costs £150pp. osiprestaurant.com