Where to Eat in Todos Santos, Mexico

One of Mexico’s “Pueblos Mágicos” (Magical Towns), Todos Santos, in Baja California, has bewitched artists and writers for decades. Now a draw for digital nomads as much as for creative types, it’s a test case in how a community handles welcoming an influx of outsiders while maintaining authenticity.

restaurant

Mariscos El Compa Chava

Locals say that this no-frills, feet-in-the-sand joint does the best pescado ceviche in town. The garlic shrimp is also a highlight, best washed down by a Michelada, made with beer and lime juice. It doesn’t have a website, but you’ll pass it en route to the highway, on Calle del Huerto.

Address

Calle del Huerto, Lomas de Chapultepec, Todos Santos 23300

restaurant

Pacifica Fish Market

This casual, popular fish restaurant does fabulous takeaway shrimp burritos and tacos, but, for the full experience, order the eponymous signature dish and sit down to blackened mahi mahi on fresh-that-day blue-corn tortillas with a side of rice and beans. If you’re determined to feast back at base, a delivery service is also available.

Address

Calle Horizonte, Brisas del Pacífico, Todos Santos 23300

paradero-exterior

restaurant

Paradero

This brand-new, brutalist-style, 35-room stay’s open-fire restaurant is headed up by Eduardo Ríos, an alumnus of Enrique Olvera’s Mexico City restaurant Pujol. Expect the likes of aguachile ceviche, bone marrow tamales, and tortillas that are baked before you in an Oaxacan clay oven.

Address

El Trampuchete, Todos Santos 23300

restaurant

The Green Room

Located just north of the La Pastora surf break, the Green Room is a delight – the Shipwreck tacos, in particular, get our vote – but the menu of elevated Mexican classics doesn’t stand a chance against the sunset when those peachy pastels and pinks come out to play. This is easily the most romantic spot in town.

Address

Villa Santa Cruz, Camino a Las Playitas, Todos Santos 23300