Elang Private Residence, Anambas Islands, Indonesia

It’s an overused term in travel, “barefoot luxury”, yet at this private island escape on Indonesia’s Riau Archipelago, it feels more like the start of a movement than a stock phrase to denote white sands and no-shoes living. Bawah Reserve, and now its younger, private island sibling Elang, are on the cusp of something industry-changing, and from the moment you plant your (newly shoeless) toes onto the fish tail-shaped pier, you can feel it.

Hotelier Tim Hartnoll stumbled upon the uninhabited island that Bawah now sits on during a sailing trip, and vowed to rebuild the reef surrounding the remote spot, which had been severely damaged by dynamite fishing. His initial promise became an unwavering commitment to breathing new life into this once fragile ecosystem – and Bawah Reserve was born. Using no heavy machinery in order to protect the reef, and the entire island ecosystem, Hartnoll painstakingly created a nature-first hotel experience over the course of five years. A few years later, and originally built as Tim’s personal retreat, Elang began taking root, too, with a rugged, slightly more untamed feeling than its serene older sibling.

Steps leading to the sea, left, and a lobby space at Elang

Open to guests since 2022, Elang manages to make you feel like you’re a wide-eyed explorer discovering your own private paradise: a soft-sand, clear-water sanctuary roamed by lizards and tropical birds who hide in the lush jungle canopy and rock-trimmed coves.

As Kristen Jennings Graff, the global head of branding for the properties, muses, "Even if it's all we do, helping the community farm or recycle, then for the 50,000 in these 250 islands, it's worth it." A stay here is not just a dreamy retreat in an untouched paradise – it's a step towards a brighter, more sustainable future.

Villas are inspired by Indonesian architecture and all have natural stone staircases leading down to the ocean

Rooms

Villas, actually, and there are six of them – five with one bedroom and one with two. All are very much inspired by traditional Indonesian architecture, with thatched palm roofs, recycled teak interiors and rock accents hewn by hand. Materials are locally sourced, and Indonesian artisans played an integral role in creating the accommodation, crafting handmade furnishings, weaving baskets and producing vibrant tapestries.

All the villas have natural stone staircases leading down to the martini-clear island waters, making morning snorkelling trips a given. Verdant jungle surrounds the other three sides of the villas, adding to Elang’s “do not disturb” allure.

For honeymooners, we’d recommend Bawah’s lo-fi overwater villas, which are a level up from any Maldivian offering.

Indonesian artisans played an integral role in designing the accommodation, including villa bedrooms

What’s for breakfast?

On Elang, the dining experience is entirely guest-driven, with a private catering team ready to whip up whatever takes your fancy. Our stay consisted of stuffing as many walnut-spiked croissants and freshly baked spiced muffins into our mouths as possible, while sipping lemongrass-infused green juices and chomping on egg white omelettes in the name of balance.

How about lunch and dinner?

Guests have the freedom to dip and dine. Opt to take lunch or dinner in one of three restaurants on Bawah – laid-back Grouper, beachside Boat House or fine-diner Tree Tops – or indulge in a made-to-order feast at Elang.

During our stay, we feasted on zingy tom yum soup, fresh fish with tangy salsa, barbecued chicken satay, richly flavoured nasi goreng, and a medley of fruit and veg plucked from Bawah’s garden. If you’re feeling adventurous, ask chef Michael Pataran for the zero-waste menu, which really showcases the brand’s innovative approach to sustainable dining.

Aside from the dedicated spaces, guests can pretty much dine on any secluded sandbar of their choice. The friendly team will set up beach picnics, lantern-lit dinner parties and romantic sunset-hued date nights at the drop of a WhatsApp message.

Verdant jungle surrounds the other three sides of the villas, adding to Elang’s “do not disturb” allure

Is there a bar?

The hub of Elang is undoubtedly the Clubhouse, taking you from croissants to cocktails every day. Overlooking the turquoise bay, this sandy spot is the ideal place for a karaoke session (yes, really) and to taste-test your way through a cocktail menu whipped up based on guests’ favourite spirits and whatever garnishes have been plucked from the surrounding jungle.

At Bawah, head to the Grouper Bar – named after the bamboo grouper hanging overhead – to mingle with the other island explorers and swap snorkelling stories, or climb up the hill to the Jules Verne Bar for far-reaching island views.

Activities on offer at Elang Private Residence include watersports and exploration of the surrounded region

Amenities

Plenty. Seaplane-and-flop this is not. You’ve got cooking classes – during our stay, we whipped up a tear-jerkingly spicy samba – tennis courts, paddleboarding (also doubling up as breakfast boards), snorkelling, scuba diving, jungle, sea and gardens all waiting to be explored.

Those opting to softly sink into island life will appreciate the dedication to wellness. There are three spas – two on Bawah and one on Elang, the latter perched cheekily over the sea – plus one roaming option known affectionately as “The Spa Explorer”. Before you’ve had a chance to unzip your suitcase, sign yourself up for this immediately. The experience entails being whisked off via boat, past the solar panel farm (the largest in the world), and navigating a litter of coves, each more photogenic than the last. Landing on your own private slither of screensaver-worthy beach, you’ll start with a warming, hot sand and stone massage, a firm but therapeutic traditional massage, followed by an ocean soak and fresh fruit served to your sunlounger. It’s a whole morning (or afternoon) of pure Zen. If you could bottle the sensation of warm air hitting your face as you get off the plane combined with that meditative, rocked-to-sleep feeling you get when dozing in a hammock, it would come somewhere close to what we felt like on floating back to our villa.

Elang has adopted pioneering sustainable initiatives to support local communities and protect the unique eco-systems that surround it

What are the hotel’s eco-credentials like?

Industry-leading. Bawah, and now Elang, have adopted pioneering green initiatives that are an integral part of the culture and community they’ve built.

Acting as custodians of their natural surrounds, the properties are at the forefront of local marine conservation efforts, leading to a 30 per cent increase in turtle hatching, while coral nurseries serve as sanctuaries for fragile coral fragments. Thanks to meticulous care and dedication, these fragments thrive and are later transplanted back onto the reef, ensuring the health and vitality of marine ecosystems.

On dry land, a different kind of stewardship takes place. Beach clean-ups are a regular occurrence, with guests actively encouraged to join forces to remove debris and ghost nets, safeguarding marine life and preserving the pristine natural beauty of the islands.

Sustainability isn't just a buzzword at Bawah Reserve and Elang – it's a way of life. From the construction of eco-friendly accommodations using recycled materials to the cultivation of permaculture gardens, every aspect of the resorts reflects a commitment to minimising environmental impact.

What about accessibility?

Not recommended, sadly. The island is strewn with uneven rocky stairs and sandy pathways.

Guests have access to private beaches

What’s the crowd like?

Thanks to its multi-villa offering and self-contained-sanctuary feel, Elang is geared up for multigenerational stays – family reunions, anniversaries, big birthdays – and the guests we encountered there reflected this.

Within a short walk I can find…

Within easy reach of each villa, you’ll find your own secluded cove, home to sea turtles, black-tip reef sharks and the whole cast of Finding Nemo. A few villas also offer star-gazing-ready telescopes, freestanding bathtubs and vintage writing desks.

Things I should know…

Elang is available for a full buy-out only, whereas Bawah can be booked on an individual room basis. Surprisingly for somewhere so off-grid, the properties are simple to get to, with an escort taking you (and your entourage) from ferry to seaplane, and even stopping off for a proper Indonesian coffee en route. Everything from passports to luggage is taken care of as you’re whisked through security. On the luggage note, reaching the island by seaplane means there are weight restrictions. Pack light; shoes are optional.

Oh, and don’t trust the water slide. We almost went viral on TikTok for cascading down it – all speed, no elegance.