Rosemary, Marrakech, Morocco

No matter how much you love the defining cacophony of Marrakech – the hawkers selling snails from steaming cauldrons in Djemaa El Fna square; buzz of mopeds zipping through narrow alleyways; hours spent haggling in the souks – there's something deeply comforting about knowing you have a calm space to retreat to for some downtime. And when it comes to restoring equilibrium in Morocco's Pink City, few riads, in our experience, come better equipped than Rosemary – the five-bedroom stay from Belgian artist and Marrakech resident Laurence Leenaert, whose studio LRNCE has been wowing tastemakers with its textiles, ceramics and objets d'art since 2013.

Perfectly situated in the medina, close to the eminently Instagrammable, 19th century-built Palais Bahia, the riad is easily recognisable by its dusky pink exterior – cause for joy in itself. But it's when you step inside and catch your first glimpse of the soothingly minimalist central courtyard, fringed by the leaves of a 40-year-old jacaranda tree, that you'll really high-five yourself for your booking prowess.

The riad's soothingly minimalist central courtyard, fringed by the leaves of a 40-year-old jacaranda tree, greet visitors upon entry

Absolutely nothing here feels accidental. A feat of design alchemy, the property succeeds in being both authentically Moroccan and a neutral canvas against which Leenaert's work and that of scores of local artisans can shine. Here, a hand-carved cedar-wood front door; there, geometric zellige tiling; around every corner, terrazzo floors, covetable, lime-based plasterwork and pops of stained glass, all punctuated by note-perfect vintage fixtures and furnishings sourced from around the world. And did we mention the roof terrace? Decorated with wrought iron daybeds topped with stacks of cushions, bold striped upholstery and scattered with rugs, it's a gorgeous spot in which to recline and unwind, soaking up stork's eye views of the peachy surrounding streetscape.

Whether you plan to dive straight in with a dip in the inviting courtyard pool or slip into something silky and linger over a peppermint tea and plate of plump local dates, here's the lowdown on the long-anticipated (and well worth the wait) Rosemary.

The property succeeds in being both authentically Moroccan and a neutral canvas against which Leenaert's work can shine

Rooms

Leenaert wants guests to "relax hard", and that won't be difficult in any one of the beautifully executed quintet of bedrooms – Clemande, Jacaranda, The Cocoon, Bird Nest and the Rosemary Suite – all of which come with either a patio view or balcony. Each is individually designed and brings its own particular delights: the Rosemary Suite boasts an LRNCE dining table made of inox and marble, and a two-person bathtub in its Arabescato marble bathroom; the Cocoon Room's bathroom, meanwhile, has a huge stained-glass window and sink inspired by Botticelli's Birth of Venus.

What's for breakfast?

An elegant, of-its-place spread that you'll want to linger over on the roof terrace in the golden morning sunshine. Across our stay, we feasted on batbout (a deliciously chewy, pitta-like bread), local honey and preserves, fruit, granola bowls, pancakes and shakshuka (a Maghrebi dish of poached eggs in a tomato and olive oil sauce with peppers, onions and garlic). There's also a great selection of teas and vitamin-packed juices (the avo smoothie was a highlight), and coffee that's worth jumping out of bed for.

Each bedroom is individually designed, and all come with either a patio view or balcony

Lunch and dinner

Chef Touria has your back. Seasonal, local dishes (including tagines, stuffed peppers, and a smorgasbord of moreish dips) are built around whatever's best in the market that day, and served on some of the prettiest terracotta crockery we've ever seen. A gentle suggestion: if you want to appreciate dinner to the max, don't eat too many of the homemade cakes served daily at the "Afternoon Pick Me Up".

Is there a bar?

The rooftop bar is a coral-hued oasis serving all the local and international spirits, wines and beers you could wish for. A dreamier spot for a medina sundowner, we have yet to encounter.

The coral-hued rooftop bar is perfect for a medina sundowner on balmy Marrakech evenings

Amenities

After a splash in the courtyard pool, we highly recommend you visit the on-site traditional hammam, which is a less confronting proposition than one of the local bathhouses – think rosemary-scented steam and luxurious slippers and robes. The pampering starts here.

Love the hand-painted plates on the walls, stoneware ornaments, ceramics and glassware at Rosemary? Want an LRNCE-designed bathrobe to wear at your local lido? Or a set of custom-made bed linen? All of these and more are available to buy via the front desk u2013 or through the LRNCE online store, for same-day delivery to the riad.

What are the hotel's green like?

Exclusively local and seasonal food graces the menu, and there are no single-use plastics in sight.

With only five rooms, you'll feel more like a house guest than a hotel guest at Rosemary

What about accessibility?

Some of the rooms are wheelchair-accessible – enquire when booking to get the right one to suit your needs.

What's the crowd like?

Well-dressed – former Marrakech resident Yves Saint Laurent would surely have approved of the kaftans and pastel linen suits we spotted on display during our stay. With only five rooms, you'll feel more like a house guest than a hotel guest, and your fellow residents tend to be those who, like you, have a penchant for beautiful design.

Beyond the riad's doors sits the Medina, as well as the Palais Bahia

Within a short walk I can find...

All of life. Step outside the front door to explore everything the medina has to offer, from artisan's ateliers to fragrant spice stalls, jewellers and leather shops. Right on your doorstep, the Palais Bahia is also a must-see.

Things I should know

Want to learn how to chisel traditional zellige tiles or carve plaster? A stay at Rosemary spells an opportunity to unleash your creativity during one of the regular workshops run by Leenaert. Her class in hand-painted ceramics will see you design your own pot (created by a local artisan, in colours inspired by the dusty Marrakech landscape) that you can then take home. Call us copycats, but we covered ours in the same rosemary sprigs that you'll notice are a recurring motif throughout the property. So pretty!