Ever seen an otter stand on its two hind legs, meerkat-style, under the unbroken arc of a rainbow shimmering in the spray off Torsa bay? Allowed beginner’s luck to make you think you’d be in with a chance at next-door Easdale island’s annual world stone-skipping championships? Eaten tacos stuffed with fresh-off-the-boat mackerel – mackerel you caught yourself earlier that day?
We hadn’t, before arriving on Luing – in one of five cars squeezed onto the ferry for the four-minute crossing from Oban, a seaside town reached via a scenic, Loch Lomond-skirting two-and-a-half-hour drive from Scotland’s second city, Glasgow. “Like Disney for wild-swimming, whisky-drinking badasses,” is how one of our party initially describes WildLuing, and, indeed, the next day at dawn, it’s impossible not to invoke the spirit of Moana as we brave the glittering, icy-cold water, inky cormorants wheeling across the brilliant blue overhead. Think endorphins for miles. Then think hot chocolate. Good hot chocolate.
We hadn’t, before arriving on Luing – in one of five cars squeezed onto the ferry for the four-minute crossing from Oban, a seaside town reached via a scenic, Loch Lomond-skirting two-and-a-half-hour drive from Scotland’s second city, Glasgow. “Like Disney for wild-swimming, whisky-drinking badasses,” is how one of our party initially describes WildLuing, and, indeed, the next day at dawn, it’s impossible not to invoke the spirit of Moana as we brave the glittering, icy-cold water, inky cormorants wheeling across the brilliant blue overhead. Think endorphins for miles. Then think hot chocolate. Good hot chocolate.
Located on the remote Isle of Luing, the eco-suites are kitted out with high-spec beds, contemporary bathrooms and modern kitchens
Open since 2023, WildLuing was designed and built by the Cadzow family – farmers on the remote Isle of Luing (pronounced “Ling”; population 200) for more than 75 years and the people behind the world-renowned rare-breed Luing cattle. The accommodation, constructed by brothers Jack and Archie, comprises a clutch of eight luxurious self-catered WildSuites arranged in a sci-fi-esque spread along western Scotland’s rugged coastline. From the outside, a compelling mashup of fairy-tale caravan and agricultural hardware, inside, the suites are pale, cocoon-like refuges, kitted out with high-spec beds, contemporary bathrooms with rainforest showers, freestanding clawfoot bathtubs and modern kitchens, the subtly nautical interiors the work of Jack’s wife Emily and mother Tooti.
At the heart of WildLuing is convivial hub-of-operations the Observatory, which houses an open-plan kitchen, lounge and 20-seater dining table backdropped by dramatic sea views. Walls are dotted with old black-and-white family photos, and an antique pier tariff lists the prices of transporting to and from the island everything from motorcycles (2 shillings) to gunpowder (1 shilling per 100lb) – farmers’ sheepdogs going free. It’s here that chefs Kitty and Iain cater for groups doing a whole-property takeover, whipping up vibrant meals made with the best of the region’s natural larder, prepping lobster or langoustines for the barbie, pouring rare single malts, and generally being fonts of all Luing knowledge. It’s also the place to bump into Jack and Emily, both in their 30s, who pop in and out throughout the day for meetings, calls and cups of tea, always ready with nuggets of local lore or hot tip-offs such as where the seals are basking.
Open since 2023, WildLuing was designed and built by the Cadzow family – farmers on the remote Isle of Luing (pronounced “Ling”; population 200) for more than 75 years and the people behind the world-renowned rare-breed Luing cattle. The accommodation, constructed by brothers Jack and Archie, comprises a clutch of eight luxurious self-catered WildSuites arranged in a sci-fi-esque spread along western Scotland’s rugged coastline. From the outside, a compelling mashup of fairy-tale caravan and agricultural hardware, inside, the suites are pale, cocoon-like refuges, kitted out with high-spec beds, contemporary bathrooms with rainforest showers, freestanding clawfoot bathtubs and modern kitchens, the subtly nautical interiors the work of Jack’s wife Emily and mother Tooti.
At the heart of WildLuing is convivial hub-of-operations the Observatory, which houses an open-plan kitchen, lounge and 20-seater dining table backdropped by dramatic sea views. Walls are dotted with old black-and-white family photos, and an antique pier tariff lists the prices of transporting to and from the island everything from motorcycles (2 shillings) to gunpowder (1 shilling per 100lb) – farmers’ sheepdogs going free. It’s here that chefs Kitty and Iain cater for groups doing a whole-property takeover, whipping up vibrant meals made with the best of the region’s natural larder, prepping lobster or langoustines for the barbie, pouring rare single malts, and generally being fonts of all Luing knowledge. It’s also the place to bump into Jack and Emily, both in their 30s, who pop in and out throughout the day for meetings, calls and cups of tea, always ready with nuggets of local lore or hot tip-offs such as where the seals are basking.
Eight eco-suites overlook the coast, offering access to the rugged landscapes of the Slate isles
And in between sunrise dips and leisurely dinners? You could take a day to walk around the whole island, or a couple of hours if you go straight down the middle, exploring some of Luing’s 15 historic slate quarries – the six Slate islands were once the source of most of the UK’s roof tiles – while keeping eyes peeled for the toffee-coloured feral goats and red, roe and fallow deer that roam devastatingly romantic landscapes painted in heathery pastels, all pops of rowan-berry red, blackberry purple and Scots-pine green. You’ve also got mountain biking, fishing, boat trips, watersports and visits to the Atlantic Islands Centre in Cullipool, where the Luing History Group has a permanent space, and where you’ll find Luing prawn and beef sandwiches on the café menu, plus best-in-class cakes made by the Isle of Luing Home Bakers cooperative.
Never been? There’s a ferry at 5.
And in between sunrise dips and leisurely dinners? You could take a day to walk around the whole island, or a couple of hours if you go straight down the middle, exploring some of Luing’s 15 historic slate quarries – the six Slate islands were once the source of most of the UK’s roof tiles – while keeping eyes peeled for the toffee-coloured feral goats and red, roe and fallow deer that roam devastatingly romantic landscapes painted in heathery pastels, all pops of rowan-berry red, blackberry purple and Scots-pine green. You’ve also got mountain biking, fishing, boat trips, watersports and visits to the Atlantic Islands Centre in Cullipool, where the Luing History Group has a permanent space, and where you’ll find Luing prawn and beef sandwiches on the café menu, plus best-in-class cakes made by the Isle of Luing Home Bakers cooperative.
Never been? There’s a ferry at 5.
Rooms
Sleeping two, suites are serene shoreside sanctuaries. You’ll arrive to a welcome hamper stuffed with local bread, eggs, butter, milk and a slab of Scottish tablet handmade in small batches on the island by a neighbour called Alison. Like fudge, but better, tablet is made from sugar, butter and condensed milk boiled until it caramelises, then set to a crumbly, brittle consistency. Beds are five-star, even before you throw in the sound of waves lapping against the shore right outside your door. Amenities by The Highland Soap Co bring the outdoors joyfully in: lemongrass and ginger bubble bath, anyone? Hebridean seaweed body wash? Juniper and lime soap?
Rooms are serene shoreside sanctuaries, decked out in soft hues
What’s for breakfast?
Fresh farm eggs from your hamper, any way you like ‘em; hot buttered sourdough with island jam; proper French press coffee to sip from your Richard Bramble mugs... Beyond that, the only limit is your own imagination (and what’s in the cupboards, which is where the pre-ordering comes in).How about lunch and dinner?
Eat in or spark up the fire pit and repair to your patio for an al fresco barbecue dinner, basing dishes around steak, lamb, oysters and venison from the Cadzows’ farm and/or provisions you’ve picked up in local shops. Special occasion? Kitty and Iain can provide a feast in The Observatory, or a picnic to enjoy on the beach, or a boat trip to the uninhabited neighbouring island of Scarba for a sumptuous lunch at the Cadzows’ hilltop hideaway the Bothy. Perched like a sea eagle’s nest on an Atlantic-facing bluff and a welcome sight at the end of a bracing hike, it welcomes guests with roaring peat fires and a table laden with the likes of Scarba venison, Luing beef, seasonal bean stew with homemade brown soda bread, and Iain’s try-it-before-you-die raspberry and pistachio frangipane, all served on vintage tin crockery and rounded off with coffee spiked with Jura whisky, the namesake island just visible through the window.
Head to The Observatory for special occasion dining or a mid-afternoon g&t, plated up by Kitty and Iain
Is there a bar?
This is very much a choose-your-own-adventure situation. Bring along your back bar essentials, stock up on wines or artisanal Scottish spirits on arrival, jump on a ferry and go bar-hopping in Oban (there’s no pub on Luing) or wander up to The Observatory in the late afternoon at g&t o’clock. The sole purpose of that giant bowl of lemons on the sideboard? Garnish.Amenities
Each of the WildSuites has a bath, four with tubs in the en-suite and four with freestanding, claw-footed beauties in the bedroom. All have stellar kitchen facilities with a fridge, and offer panoramic seascapes, design-led interiors and a big outdoor deck with firepit. Parking and WiFi are free, and A-grade linens, towels and a hairdryer are provided.
Views from the eco-suite encompass the rest of the Slate isles – and perhaps an otter or two
How about their green credentials?
With a vested interest in preserving Luing for generations to come – Jack and Emily’s adorable daughter, Saskia, was born this year – the Cadzows have focused on sustainability from the get-go: the WildSuites were built from locally sourced materials and on repurposed railway sleepers, making them 100 per cent removable from the land. The family also participates in regular beach cleans and contributes to local biodiversity conservation – planting trees, building bird boxes and employing limited night lighting, with solar powered cat’s eyes along paths, to promote dark skies. On their farm, they’ve implemented green initiatives such as mob grazing and harnessing renewable energy through wind turbines. (The chance to step inside a wind tower and look up? Just one among dozens of surprising “you’d never read it in a guide book” moments we experienced at WildLuing.) The Cadzows are also currently involved in a major wetlands restoration project, while, on the marine conservation front, their oyster farm spells good news for the planet, with the bivalves purifying the water they grow in and taking nitrogen and CO2 from the atmosphere. The list goes on, spanning refillable organic toiletries to responsibly sourced firewood. After all that, keeping the use of single-use plastic to a bare minimum is the very least guests can do.What about accessibility?
WildLuing is fully accessible.
The WildSuites were built from locally sourced materials and on repurposed railway sleepers, making them 100 per cent removable from the land
WildLuing’s collab with Highlands-based foraging expert Lucy Cooke, aka The Wild Cooke, involves a unique, produce-driven tour of the island followed by a wild dinner. Check the events schedule for upcoming dates.
A sauna is coming soon!
Sheep, cattle, rock pools, otters, an abandoned slate quarry and rainbows so frequent that islanders don’t even bat an eyelid when they see one.
What’s the crowd?
Well-travelled hikers, sailors and adventurers from the Scottish mainland, Scandinavia and beyond; the vibe, real Aran sweaters and wellies.Things I should know
WildLuing’s collab with Highlands-based foraging expert Lucy Cooke, aka The Wild Cooke, involves a unique, produce-driven tour of the island followed by a wild dinner. Check the events schedule for upcoming dates.
A sauna is coming soon!
Within a short walk I can find…
Sheep, cattle, rock pools, otters, an abandoned slate quarry and rainbows so frequent that islanders don’t even bat an eyelid when they see one.
The Lowdown
WildSuites sleep two and cost from £200 a night. wildluing.com
